PDA

View Full Version : Creative Assembly A Beginners Guide to Medieval: Total War



frogbeastegg
07-23-2003, 22:33
A Beginners Guide to Medieval: Total War by frogbeastegg

I regret to say that I will no longer be updating this guide with corrections or suggestions; I just don't have the time any more. This is the final version.

This document is entirely the work of frogbeastegg unless otherwise indicated. You may do what you wish with this document as long as you do not make money from it, alter it in any way, or claim it as your own work. I did this for free and I worked hard. Don't steal my stuff. I prefer it if people ask my permission before doing anything with this that may go public, if you are doing something for just yourself then fine, but if you plan to distribute it please ASK me. Leave a note in this topic or something, and I will get back to you. The same applies if you want to use this on your website, I get a lot of mail on this guide and I like to know what is happening, being asked questions based on versions I don't know exist is not fun. I almost always grant permission if asked.

There is now a PDF version of this guide. It is more up to date than the word version below, and also looks a lot better. You can download it here (http://www.3ddownloads.com/totalwar/FAQs/mtw/BeginnerGuidePDF5-2-04.zip). Thanks to Tricky Lady for compiling this PDF.

There is now a printer friendly version of this guide available You can download it from two locations:
1.Click on this link and go through 3D Downloads Link to guide (http://www.totalwar.org/Downloads/faq.shtml), the file is called (surprise) printable beginners guide and the author is frogbeastegg.

A HTML version of this guide is now available complete with links to the assorted sections. You can view it here (http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/mtwbg/index.html). This version of the guide was made by TosaInu.

2. JUNIOR MEMBERS ONLY - if you have junior member status (or better) you can access the orgs built in download thingy, look above the grey bar telling you which forum you are in. You should see a link called 'files' in small letters. The guide is listed under faqs -> printable beginners guide by frogbeastegg.

The printable guide is never going to be updated - this online guide will be the most current version at all times. If you don't have Microsoft Word you can use open office (http://www.openoffice.org/), a free program to view it. Alternatively you can get Microsoft's own free Word reader here (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=9BBB9E60-E4F3-436D-A5A7-DA0E5431E5C1&displaylang=EN)

Index
1.Getting started
1.1 Useful resources
1.2 What to practise before starting a main game
1.3 Choosing your faction, difficulty, mode and era
-On era
-On difficulty
-On factions
-Faction and religion - which is easier for a beginner?
-On mode - Glorious achievement or conquest?
2.The campaign game
2.1 Your main aims
2.2 Buildings and the tech tree
2.3 Armies and units
-Army types
-Unit availability
-Should I save my cash by building lesser units?
-Should I build now or wait for better units?
-What does unit X do?
-Retraining Vs making new units
-What do my cavalry dismount into?
-What is valour?
-What is disciplined and elite?
-Why does morale matter when choosing troops?
2.4 Mercenaries
2.5 Finances and provinces
-Farming, mining and trade
-The payback factor
-Special province bonuses
-Rebellions and loyalty
-What about faction re-emergences?
2.6 Securing your borders
2.7 Diplomacy
2.8 The Pope
-Excommunication
-Getting recommunicated
-Avoiding getting excommunicated in the first place
-Wouldn't it be easier to get rid of the Pope?
-So I can't conquer the Pope entirely then?
-You can use the Pope to help you
-Getting on the Pope train...
2.9 Agents
-By province
-By type
2.10 War
-When should I attack?
-Where should I attack?
-Amphibious attacks
-Castle attacks
-So I've attacked, now what?
2.11 Events
-All those handy dates.
2.12 Crusades and Jihads
-How to have a successful crusade
-What do I do about other faction's crusades?
-Crusader knights
3. The battle map
3.1 Basic aims
-When attacking
-When defending
3.2 Unit types
-A quick rundown of what is what and a link to a source of more detailed information
-Morale
-What are those little flags visible on each unit?
-Charging
3.3 The landscape
-Height
-Trees
-Bridges
-Desert
3.4 Generals and kings
-Killing and preserving
3.5 When to fight and when to withdraw
-Running for it with grace Know when you cannot win and when you can win
3.6 Sieges
-Both defending and attacking strategies
3.7 Tactics and fighting styles
-Catholics
-Muslims
-Orthodox
4. Moving to intermediate
-Links to more advanced stuff
5. Appendix
5.1 Hotkeys
-Battle map
-Campaign map
5.2 Multiplayer
-basic do's and don'ts.
5.3 Modding the missile units
-Step by step guide to basic missile stat modding
5.4 Unit size chart
-How many men are in each unit type at each size setting
5.5 Cheat codes and command lines
-Cheats for medieval and Vikings
-Command lines for Vikings
6. Credits

1. Getting Started
Welcome to Total War This guide is intended to aid the new player adjust to the complex and, at first, bewildering world of the Total War games. This guide has been written with Medieval: Total War in mind, although many of its tips can be applied to Shogun: Total war. The Total War series is made by Creative Assembly, a British company. Here is a brief rundown of the series so far:
-Shogun: Total War (2000) The Original game, set in Japan
-The Mongol Invasion (2001) The add-on for Shogun featuring the Mongol invasion of Japan
-Shogun Warlords Edition (2001) Shogun and its add-on combined in one package
-Medieval: Total War (2002) The second full game. Set in medieval Europe it is bigger and more complex than Shogun.
-The Viking Invasion (2003) The add-on for Medieval. Covers the factional fighting that took place in Britain during the 9th - 11th centuries.
-Rome: Total War (N/A) The next full game in the series. Not yet available.

1.1 Useful resources
Firstly if you just have Medieval: Total War and not the Viking Invasion add-on get the medieval 1.1. patch here (http://www.totalwar.com/community/download.htm). If you have the Viking Invasion add-on you don't need the patch, as it is included in the install of VI. The patch for the Viking Invasion is now available from the same link as the MTW patch.

Next on your list should be a visit to Clan Berserk (http://shogun.cafe24.com/medieval/) for a free copy of their excellent unit stat and comparison tool. This handy tool will allow you to look at the stats of any unit from Medieval and the Viking Invasion. When you want to know why a certain unit is better than another this tool is your bible.

You should also consider finding a few minutes to read through The Medieval: Total War and Viking Invasion FAQ (http://pub222.ezboard.com/fshoguntotalwarfrm5.showMessage?topicID=12583.topic) by Obake Date, it has some information this guide does not, just as this guide has some information the FAQ doesn't.

For those who want to take their game even further I would recommend Bushface's Total War Information Pack. The pack contains 1 MTW map, 1 VI map of Britain, 1 set of 4 pages detailing unit availability and build requirements, 1 Catholic specific tech tree, 1 Orthodox specific tech tree and 1 Muslim specific tech tree. The two maps are a miniature version of the campaign map from both the main medieval game and the Viking add-on. They show each province along with relevant information like trade goods, iron, borders, sea zones and ports. They can easily be coloured in to show which provinces are owned by who at each of the three starting points in the campaign, this will allow you to make a better informed choice about which faction to start with, as well as where to attack next, the locations of handy resources etc. If you have the Viking Invasion add-on you will need Bushface's tech tree. Unlike the PDF that comes with the game this tree prints legibly onto A4 paper. It also corrects no less than seven errors that were on the PDF. The tree contains extra information such as the price and build times of each building and the valour bonuses are far clearer. The three MTW specific tech trees show exactly what a religion can and cannot build as well as integrating the new units and buildings added into the medieval game by VI. All the VI additions are clearly labelled so you can use it with plain MTW if you wish. The unit sheets come on four A4 pages and pack in details on every single unit in both MTW and VI. The information includes what eras the unit is limited to, which factions can build it, which provinces give it a valour bonus, what building and events are required to build it, and what units a faction can expect to get on a crusade. The sheets also have some 'hidden' provincial valour bonuses listed, for example Janissary heavy infantry get a bonus in Bulgaria but the game doesn't tell you this. You can download them from the org here (http://www.totalwar.org/Downloads/faq.shtml), just look for the file called MTW_VI_Sheets by Bushface/frogbeastegg. As you can tell from that I did help Bushface make this pack, I was the researcher, but that has nothing to do with my recommendation, as the pack is excellent. An alternate download location can be found here (http://www.onemorepill.com/mtw/).

Another set of documents that you might like to get is made by Nefarious. He has:
1. MTW Heroes document. A faction by faction listing of names, dates, types, and V&V's. Included is a brief history on each character.
2. VI Heroes document. A faction by faction listing of names, dates, and V&V's.
3. MTW Provinces listing. Spreadsheet showing each province's capital, resources, trade goods, and specialty troops.
4. VI Provinces listing. Spreadsheet showing each province's capital, resources, trade goods, and specialty troops.
5. Glorious achievement listing. A faction by faction list of the original glorious achievements and their points scores.
These documents are very worthwhile, you will need Microsoft Word and Microsoft Excel to view them, fortunately there are free readers for both those programs available: excel reader (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=4EB83149-91DA-4110-8595-4A960D3E1C7C&displaylang=EN) word reader (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=9BBB9E60-E4F3-436D-A5A7-DA0E5431E5C1&displaylang=EN)
To get the files send an email to tugowar@(blahblah)mchsi.com leaving out the blahblah, as that is to baffle email sniffing bots.

The Complete Total War Unit Guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453) has the stats, classification, and general information and tactics for all unit types in Medieval and Shogun. It is aimed more at the intermediate to advanced player, but with a basic grounding in TW principles you should be fine.

There are two main websites I would recommend. First is the official site (http://www.totalwar.com/). Take a look in the forums, there are often interesting discussions going on. The second is the org (http://www.totalwar.org/), the site that is hosting this guide.

If you can find a copy of Bradygames official Medieval: Total War strategy guide take a look through it. It has plenty of detail on the unit stats and battle factors that decide morale penalties, hit chances etc. If you want a look at how Medieval works out its combat sums than this is for you

1.2 What to do before starting your first campaign game
Firstly READ THE MANUAL. I don't care if you think you can manage without reading it, you will not be able to. There is a wealth of information in there, it is well written, clear and will set up with a basic understanding of what you can do and how to do it. I will not be reiterating the manual in this guide, so go and read the manual cover to cover and then come back.

Done that? Good. Now you are going to play the tutorials, both the battle tutorials and the campaign map tutorial. Finish them all. It may even be worth playing the last few battle map tutorials several times to make sure you are comfortable commanding an army.

Now you can choose between doing several custom battles and starting your first campaign. I would recommend the custom battles, as they will allow you to try out different units and factions, as well as giving you necessary practise. You can find more on the battle map in chapter 3. For advice in choosing a faction go to chapter 1.3.

Get accustomed to the idea that you have plenty of time in the campaign to conquer everything There is no need to rush, in fact rushing will make your life much harder so calm down and take life slowly.

1.3 Choosing your faction, difficulty, mode and era
This is a very important subject. Once you have made your choices you will not be able to alter then without restarting your campaign. These few settings will define how long your campaign lasts, what units and buildings you start with, how the AI behaves and many other things. You must choose carefully if you want to get a game tailored to you.

On era.
If you just have Medieval you will be able to choose between early, high and late. If you have the Viking Invasion add-on you will also be able to choose Viking. The Viking campaign takes place on its own separate map, which is smaller than the main medieval one. All three medieval start dates take place on the same map, however pre-built armies and buildings, province ownership and unit availability will change. Early has the least pre-built stuff so you can customise your empire with ease. Early begins in 1088 and provides the longest time to finish a game. You will start with poor units like peasants and have to build your way up to better units. High starts in 1205 with more buildings already placed. You can still customise your empire but it is harder due to the development that is already there. Chivalric and feudal units are available at the start of a high game. You will have a medium length of time to finish your game in high. Late starts in 1321 and a lot of development is present in the provinces, also you don't have much time to customise your empire. Gothic units will be available at the start of the campaign, along with chivalric and feudal. This is the shortest medieval campaign. Recommendations: If you play the main medieval game start on early. If you have the Viking campaign available you may like to try it instead. Be aware that some people find the Viking campaign much harder, although I find it easier as it has less to do and is generally more manageable. The lack of the Pope and his interference also helps.

On difficulty
There are four difficulties, easy, normal, hard and expert. Your difficulty will decide how much money you start off with, any bonuses given to you or the AI and what tactics the AI will use on the two maps. Starting funds are as follows:
Easy = 10000 florins
Normal= 8000 florins
Hard = 6000 florins
Expert = 4000 florins
On easy the player will get an extra +4 to morale in battle, making it harder for the AI to rout your troops. On expert the AI get this bonus. Normal and hard don't give anyone a bonus. The AI will use different tactics on the battlefield depending on your difficulty. Here is a list provided by GilJaySmith, one of the developers of Total War:
- On expert the AI gets a morale bonus - on easy the player gets one
- On hard and above, AI skirmishers will try to avoid being pincered
- On easy the AI will not consider going into loose formation to avoid being shot at
- On easy the AI will not consider outflanking, double-envelopment, or stop-and-shoot tactics
- On easy the AI won't move troops out of the way of castle walls that may be about to collapse
- On easy the AI will try to hide rather than flee if the battle is going badly
- On easy the AI will not try ambushes
- On easy the AI will not try the 'appear weak' battle plan
- The AI is more likely to deploy in woods on harder difficulties, and less likely to camp near the red zone on easier difficulties
- The AI is more likely to consider scouting the map to find the rest of your army if it can't see it all on higher difficulties
- On easy the AI will not skirmish
- On higher than easy, the AI will specifically consider sh00ting at your artillery
- On easy the AI will generally attack rather than defend, and will not consider withdrawing for a much longer time
- On higher than easy, the AI will check to see if it's marching into enfilade fire when attacking your main body
- On easy the AI may come out of a wall breach to chase you if you attack and are repulsed

In addition to these changes LongJohn (another developer) says the following: The combat strength of the a.i. units is affected by the difficulty level.
On easy its combat effectiveness is reduced by 30-40% (can't remember the exact figure).
On hard it's increased by 10-15%, and on expert its 30%. 30% being around 75% of the increase you'd get from 1 valour upgrade.

Recommendations: For your first game choose either easy or normal.

On factions
This one is a real biggy. Your faction will decide your religion, unit selection, starting provinces, colour, diplomatic relations and succession to the throne. There are three religions you can play as (four if you play the Viking campaign, as the Vikings are pagan) Catholic, Muslim and Orthodox. The Catholics have the largest unit selection; they have many strong units with lots of armour. They also have to deal with the Pope (see chapter 2.8 ). The Muslim and Orthodox factions do not have to worry about the Pope. However they don't get as many units and their units are aimed more at hit and run tactics than the heavily armed and armoured Catholics. Each faction is rated for difficulty on the selection screen.
Recommendations: For the Viking campaign try the Vikings (excellent units, raiding tactics, good boats and generally a lot of fun), the Mercians (reasonable units, good starting location, rich provinces) or the Saxons (good units, easier to defend provinces, compact kingdom, quite rich). For the medieval game try the English (nice location, good units with even better ones available when the clock hits 1205, reasonable income), the Byzantines (no need to worry about the Pope, awesome units which slowly become outdated, potential for massive income), the Egyptians (no Pope, isolated position which is easy to protect, potentially large income), the Danes (only one province to manage) or the Spanish (really good units, small at the start so they are easy to manage, can expand into Muslim territory easily, quite rich and they have easy access to iron).

Faction and religion - which is easier for a beginner?
That depends on several factors such as what tactics you like to use on the battlefield, what kind of position you want on the campaign map, whether you want to deal with the Pope or not, etc. I always find the Catholic factions easier because I like their armies and I fight well with them, enabling me to win battles that are very unfavourable in odds or conditions. Easier Catholic factions include England and Spain, while Spain is rated hard by the game it is actually very easy because it has rich lands, easy access to iron for troop upgrades, an enemy that is made for attacking without upsetting the Pope (Almohads), reasonable trade with access to both the Med and North seas, and a narrow set of borders with France and co. There are also many gold mines along the trail leading to the Crusader provinces and you can sweep them up while moving to grab the hideously rich and worthwhile trio of Antioch, Tripoli, and Edessa. Spain has the typical Catholic army with a couple of extra units thrown in; Jinetes are very good when you get the hang of them. Lancers are devastating but only around in late and you will probably have finished your campaign by then. England, well, once they hit high they have some excellent unique units (billmen and longbows) and if you have taken out France and got Wales and Scotland you are in a very healthy position to pursue a multitude of possibilities. Both these factions benefit from an aggressive start - flatten those who pose a threat to you before settling back to build your borders and stabilise your empire. All Catholic factions have to deal with the Pope and that is their biggest drawback. However once you learn how to take care of the Pope (poisoned chocolates work well, as do visiting armies kicking over his sandcastles) life becomes much sunnier

The Muslim factions don't have to deal with the Pope screaming at them each time they do anything and this is part of their appeal to many players. However they do tend to be on the receiving end of crusades, but as long as you keep strong borders they shouldn't pose a problem. Muslim factions tend to have more flexible armies as they often get a lot of speedy cavalry and mounted missile units. Infantry wise they don't have the punch of the Catholics except for certain eras where they do have a very nice advantage. The Almohads have strong infantry in early but less so in high and late, the Egyptians have a few nice spear units like Saracens, and the Turks trample the opposition when they get their Janissary units in High. However generally speaking you can't just assemble an army, march straight at the foe and squish them like you sometimes can with the Catholics. The Almohads are a good faction for a beginner as they start with a good position and have easy access to one of the best units in early - the Almohad urban militia. The Turks are easy in high or late. The Egyptians are supposed to be easy in early, but I don't get on with their armies too well so I find them harder.

Orthodox factions are a mixture. The Byzantines start off incredibly strong but by late they are as weak as anything because, in terms of units, they have everything at the start and that is basically it for them - no real upgrades like the other factions. You need to get going in early and basically kick ass for lack of a better description Stabilise your empire and then destroy the foe with all possible speed, but be careful not to over reach and trigger a lot of rebellions. They have good enough units to pursue either strong arm Catholic style infantry and heavy cavalry pounding the enemy or to take a more mobile approach with their mounted archer types and faster cavalry. The Russians are not available in early and they are usually classed as quite hard. Orthodox factions don't deal with the Pope and they can be common targets for crusades but as long as you keep your borders protected this shouldn't be a problem.

Decide whether you want to faff around with the Pope and then try out some of the factions. If you like the armies then try the faction in the campaign.

On mode, Glorious Achievements or Conquest?
Basically on GA mode you will have to fulfil objectives given to you by the game for points. The faction with the most points at the end wins. There is no Glorious Achievement mode in the Viking campaign. In Conquest you are free to do your own thing. You are offered a lesser victory when you take 60% of the map. To get the greater victory you must conquer 100% of the map. Unfortunately there is no province counter so you can see how close you are to winning.
Recommendations: I would go with conquest for your first game so you can experiment freely.

2. The campaign game
So you are ready to start your first campaign, but you want to know what you should aim for? This is the chapter for you This chapter is for both the main medieval game and the Viking game, the strategies are valid in both unless they rely on something that is clearly not in that campaign, for example inquisitors are not available in the Viking campaign.

2.1 Your main aims
Your main overriding aim is to win either by conquering 60% or 100% of the map, or by having the most GA points. To achieve this aim you will need to break it down into a series of smaller aims.
1. Secure your kingdom. Defeat any immediate threats and build up border defence armies. (See chapter 2.3)
2.Build a set of troop producing provinces. Most people go with one melee infantry province, one ranged unit province and one cavalry province. It is possible, and desirable, to build two melee infantry provinces to speed construction of armies. (See chapter 2.2)
3.Get a good income. Build farming improvements, mines and trade. (see chapter 2.5)
4. Moving out and expanding. Having achieved the three aims above you are in a position to take the battle to the enemy and start attacking for reasons beyond self defence. (See chapter 2.10)

2.2 Buildings and the tech tree.
The tech tree is quite easy to follow once you understand how it works. There are several levels for each building (troop production, farming etc). Most buildings require a certain level of castle to produce (the exceptions are farmland, mines, watch towers/border forts. I think that's all of them). You will always have to upgrade the castle one level to build the next building in a family e.g. if you have a spear maker you will need to upgrade the castle to the next level before building the spear makers workshop. The family evolution goes whatever -> whatever workshop -> whatever guild -> master whatever. For buildings that don't need a castle you can just build the next one straightaway. Some buildings are time limited; you can't build any of the gunsmiths or foundries until you get the message about gunpowder being discovered. One of the ship builders is dependant on the compass but I can't remember which. Generally for the Catholics you want to build each level of a building until the 'feudal' unit becomes available. After that you will need to wait until 1205 before the chivalric units are available so it's not always worth building up to master level straight away. However each master level building gives a valour bonus to it's units so you do need to decide whether you are going to pursue this bonus early by building a chain of buildings that won't give any units for quite a while.

A suggested build order for a Catholic faction starting in early would be:
Province 1 = cavalry. Build a royal estate, armourer's workshop, horse breeder, town watch, spear makers workshop, improved farmland 20% and castle. This will allow you to build the best Feudal cavalry. This is a slow and expensive process, which gives you Feudal Knights at the end, with other good cavalry in between like mounted sergeants. If you are using cavalry heavy armies having two or more provinces capable of building good quality cavalry will really aid you as it speeds troop construction and retraining.

Province 2 = archers. Build a fort, town watch and bowyer. Archers are cheap and easy.

Province 3 = infantry. Build a spear makers workshop, sword smith, keep, and town guard. This will give you feudal sergeants, feudal men at arms, peasants, militia sergeants as well as their inferior counterparts like plain spearmen. Some people split infantry between two provinces either as one for sword/heavy infantry and one for spear/pikes etc or as two identical provinces capable of producing all melee infantry. This is a good idea if you use infantry heavy armies as it allows you to raise troops twice as fast.

Province 4 = agents. Build a castle, brothel, tavern, royal palace, church, chapter house and monastery. This gives you all the agents except grand inquisitors and cardinals who aren't available till 1205 (Grand Inquisitors definitely aren't available till 1205, I'm not so sure about cardinals) If you plan on using a lot of a certain type of agent then you may wish to build another province capable of producing that type so you can pump them put quickly.

Other provinces = economic upgrades (See chapter 2.5)

At this point you could leave each province before building up further or you could keep going towards higher castle levels to get the master valour bonus and to have the chivalric troops available as soon as it's 1205. If money is tight you should stop military upgrading at this point until you get more cash. If you have plenty of florins keep going. You may also want to add an armourer to each province to give armour bonuses. If you have iron in your province the same applies to metal smiths (attack bonus). Churches/mosques and religious buildings add to morale so you can build those too.

Unless you want to be mobbed by spies/ assassins etc build border forts in all your provinces. In troublesome provinces like Scotland, Portugal etc build a keep along with a church and maybe a tavern as these increase happiness and reduce the chance of a revolt.

Economic build up is more complicated but basically the more farming income you get from a province the faster you get your investment back. Upgrade your richer provinces first. Always build mines no matter what type as they are guaranteed income and pay for themselves quickly. Mines are the first priority for quick reliable cash. Trade can be very rewarding but its subject to wars and blockades, which can make it unreliable. It is also slower to set up and quite expensive. There is a lot more about finances in chapter 2.5.

That should get you through the first few turns, after that you should be able to cope. Bear in mind that this is a highly subjective area and some people will disagree with my build order. Also it doesn't do as much for the Orthodox or Muslim factions (they need different buildings to access all their units, however this build order will get you most of them). It's really just a matter of practise, after you spend a while staring at the tech tree and unit info you start to remember it so don't give up.

The unit build information on the back of the MTW tech tree is quite clear once you know the building upgrade process. It basically works on the principle of new building = new troop which is an upgrade of the previous one. Chivalric units are only available after 1205, gothic after 1321. The ranged units go archers in feudal, crossbows at 1205 and arbalesters at 1321. For the Muslims and Orthodox there are few units limited to different eras so most of their units are available as soon as the building is complete.

2.3 Armies and units
There are three different types of armies in the campaign, attacking armies, defending armies and garrison armies. You will need to make and use all three if you want to be successful.

1.Attacking armies. These armies are custom built to attack other factions. They generally consist of some strong infantry like men at arms, some strong cavalry like knights, some fast cavalry like Alan mercenary cavalry, a few spear troops and a few ranged troops. A suggested attacking army for a Catholic faction would be 4 men at arms (use the most recent available to you), 4 spears (use sergeants of the most recent type), 3 ranged troops (archers, crossbows or arbalesters depending on the era), 2 heavy cavalry (knights of the most recent type), 1 light cavalry (the faster the better, these guys will be used to run down routing enemy troops) and 2 anti armour troops (militia units until 1205, after then use a unit with pole arms like halberdiers). All of these units should have the best armour and weapon upgrades you can supply from armourers and metal smiths. However if you are going to fight in the desert don't use troops with armour above 5 as the heat will tire them out very quickly. When going on a desert offensive forget the armour upgrades For non-Catholic factions try to get a balance of missile units, tough cavalry (Kataphraktoi, Ghulams etc), missile cavalry (cavalry archers, Byzantine cavalry etc), fast cavalry (Saharan cavalry etc) and infantry (Saracen infantry, Byzantine infantry etc). If you know you will be fighting horses as a Muslim build camels. As a non-Catholic you will be relying on your speed and manoeuvrability more than on brute strength, so use you cavalry to the max Attacking armies should try to use the 16 slots available in each army stack so they can scare the enemy with numbers. All attacking armies should be lead by a good general with as many stars as you can get.

2.Defending armies. A defending army is created only to protect your border provinces. Because of this they tend to have a lot of missile troops and spear types. A suggested Catholic defence army would be 4 spears (again use your latest), 6 ranged (mix between archers and crossbows/arbalesters. The archers can fire over the heads of the crossbow types), 2 cavalry (use cavalry that can fight, but not necessarily knights. Mounted sergeants are good here), 2 men at arms (use the latest) and 2 others (these two are optional, you don't need to fill the army. Put any unit you like and feel you need in). Non-Catholic factions can produce a similar army using a lot of spears and foot archers, however they can also use a lot of cavalry and cavalry archers to provide a more mobile defence. Give these armies all the upgrades you can.

3.Garrison armies. These are the simplest and cheapest armies. Basically you need one in each province that is not in danger of attack across a land border, they increase loyalty and prevent revolt. One unit of peasants will do the job; just make sure there are 100 or more men in the unit. Some provinces like Portugal and Scotland are particularly rebellious and may need more than one unit of peasants. NEVER leave a province without at least one unit of 100 men unless you are trying to get it to revolt These armies don't need upgrades of any kind, as they are never intended to actually fight.

Cheetah has kindly lent me his own style of army, which suits a more cavalry/melee heavy army (very different to my play style so I didn't think of it). He uses one style of army for all his military needs, both attacking and defending. This one is well suited to factions like the Byzantines that rely more on cavalry. Cheetahs all-in-one army is made up of 3-4 ranged units, 6-7 melee units (men at arms, militias etc), 2 ranged cavalry and the rest heavier cavalry. He doesn't use spears unless he expects to meet large quantities of cavalry or camels. He uses the occasional unit of javelins in the ranged group; otherwise they are foot archers or men with crossbow/arbalesters. Try it - you might like it (But if you don't like it don't complain to me ;) )

It is important to note several things about unit availability.
1. Some units become available when the game clock hits a certain date. These are:
-All units with chivalric in the name become available at 1205
-All units with Gothic in the name become available at 1321
-Crossbows, arbalesters, longbows, billmen, Mamluk cavalry, trebuchets, mortars, halberdiers, boyars, steppe horsemen, Janissary archers and Janissary infantry become available at 1205
-Gunpowder units, pikes, Lithuanian cavalry, Demi cannon, serpentine, siege cannon, Demi culverin, culverin, gendarmes, lancers, Janissary heavy infantry, Ottoman Sipahi and Sipahi of the Porte become available at 1321.
-Check the VI manual for the limitations on the new units.
2. You can NEVER build foot knights. Instead you must tell the horse knight to dismount in battle by right clicking on the unit and selecting dismount in the deployment phase BEFORE the battle begins. Some units, like feudal knights, can only dismount in a siege; others can dismount whenever you want.
3. Some units will disappear after a certain date. You can no longer build Varangian Guardsmen or Ghulam bodyguards (as the Turks) after 1321. Check the VI manual for the limitations on the new units.

Should I save my cash by building lesser units?
In the campaign you should always use the best units available to you unless you really can't afford to. The more expensive units are often several miles better than their cheaper counterparts. However this is not to say that you should use chivalric sergeants for garrison duty instead of peasants, which would be a waste of money, as the garrisons are never intended to fight. Half the fun of the campaign is in using massive armies of elite troops that cost thousands of florins to squash your enemy.

Should I build now or wait for better troops?
If you are very close (within a couple of turns) to getting a new, superior unit and you are not urgently in need of troops then yes you can wait. If you need troops to guard provinces etc then you shouldn't wait because you will be endangering your security. You should never start a game in the early era and wait for the high era to start before building an army just because chivalric troops are better than feudal ones. Build what you need when you need it. It is very easy to replace lesser troops with their new counterparts, all you have to do is build one unit of the new type, send it to join it's army and then disband the older unit the turn its replacement arrives.

What does unit X do? What is the difference between unit A and unit B?
Check the Complete Total War Unit Guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453) for information and tactics for each and every unit in Shogun, Medieval and Vikings.

Retraining versus making new units
Should you retrain damaged units for build a new unit to merge with them? This depends on your situation. If you are in the middle of a war and need to keep your armies at the front you should build a new unit of each type that needs more men and send them forward to meet up with your army. You can then use these newly trained men to top up damaged units. If you are in a peacetime situation you can recall one army at a time to your production bases to retrain them back up to full strength. Retraining also gives a unit any extra bonuses like improved armour or morale that are above the bonuses they already possess.
This next point is important: A UNIT NEVER LOOSES VALOUR When you merge or retrain a unit the valour rating may appear to go down. This is because the valour of a unit is an average of all the men in the unit. Thus green troops can lower the overall, however as valour is tracked on an individual basis nothing is actually lost it only looks like it. If you have one particularly high valour individual in a unit and he dies the overall valour of the unit may seem to go down. This is because the man gave a large boost to the average. Again nothing is lost (apart from the dead man) it only looks like it. Check the battle log files (MTW directory, then log file folder. Only recorded if you set log files to 'on' in the options menu) if you don't believe me - valour is tracked on a per man basis and is visible in the log files.

What do my cavalry units dismount into?
Alan Mercenary Cavalry -> Archers
Steppe Cavalry -> Spearmen
Turcopole -> Archers
Berber Camel -> Desert Archers (yes)
Mamluk Horse Archers -> Desert Archers
Turcoman Horse -> Turcoman Foot
Horse Archers -> Archers
Golden Horde Horse Archers -> Golden Horde Warriors (yes)
Byzantine Cavalry -> Trebizond Archers
Golden Horde Heavy Cavalry -> Golden Horde Warriors (yes)
Gothic Knights -> Gothic Foot Knights (yes)
Saharan Cavalry -> Murabitin Infantry
Mamluk Cavalry -> Saracen Infantry
Armenian Heavy Cavalry -> Feudal Sergeants
Bedouin Camel Warriors -> Muslim (yes)
Hobilars -> Feudal Sergeants
Ghulam Cavalry -> Saracen Infantry
Khwarazmian Cavalry Saracen Infantry
Pronoiai Allagion -> Byzantine Infantry
Kataphraktoi -> Byzantine Infantry
Ottoman Sipahi -> Turcoman Foot
Feudal Knights -> Feudal Foot Knights
Teutonic Sergeants -> Order Foot Soldiers
Knights Hospitaller -> Hospitaller Foot Knights (yes)
Knights Santiago -> Chivalric Foot Knights (yes)
Knights Templar -> Chivalric Foot Knights (yes)
Teutonic Knights -> Chivalric Foot Knights (yes)
Lancers -> Chivalric Foot Knights
Chivalric Knights -> Chivalric Foot Knights (yes)
Gendarmes -> Chivalric Man-at-Arms (yes)
Early Royal Knights ->Feudal Foot Knights
High Royal Knights -> Chivalric Foot Knights (yes)
Late Royal Knights -> Chivalric Foot Knights (yes)
Early Royal Ghulam Knights -> Saracen Infantry
High Royal Ghulam Knights -> Saracen Infantry
Late Royal Ghulam Knights -> Saracen Infantry
Spanish Jinetes -> Feudal Sergeants
Sipahi of the Porte -> Janissary Infantry
Boyar -> Feudal Man-at-Arms
Lithuanian Cavalry -> Archers (yes)
Polish Retainer -> Feudal Sergeants
Mounted Crossbows -> Crossbows
Mounted Sergeants -> Feudal Sergeants
Avar Nobles -> Armoured Spearmen
Byzantine Lancers -> Armoured Spearmen
Druzhina Cavalry -> Feudal Foot Knights (yes)
Faris -> Dismounted Faris
Khazar Royal Cavalry -> Armoured Spearmen
Medium Cavalry -> Round Shield Spearmen
Pictish Cavalry -> Celtic Warriors
Dark Age Royal Knights -> Early Royal Foot Knights
Dark Age Knights -> Early Foot Knights
Steppe Heavy Cavalry -> Armoured Spearmen
Szekely -> Slav Warriors
Viking Raider Cavalry -> Viking Carls (yes)

The units that can dismount in any battle have been marked with a (yes). If there is no (yes), then the units may only dismount in castle assaults. NB: This list is courtesy of RabTheRab.

What is valour?
Valour is a measure of how experienced a unit is. Each point of valour is earned in battle by killing non-routing enemies. It adds +1 attack +1 defence +2 morale, you can probably see from this why veterans with high valour are to be feared. Valour can also be gained from the general, for every second star he receives the men in his army get a point of special valour which adds +1 attack +1 defence.

A unit is always constructed at 0 valour, however there are two exceptions to this.
1.The province the unit comes from has a special bonus for that kind of unit (for example Wales gives all longbowmen +1 valour if they are built there). In this case the unit will start with 1 valour.
2.The unit is constructed in a master level building. A master level building gives any unit that comes from it a +1 valour bonus, so they start with 1 valour. This bonus is cumulative with any province bonuses enabling you to build a unit with 2 starting valour. Generally the master bonuses are easy to figure out, if it uses a bow it gets it bonus from the bowyers, swords from sword smiths and so on. There are several units that require many different types of building (e.g. Byzantine cavalry which need horse breeder, bowyers workshop and sword smiths workshop) where it is not obvious which master building gives the bonus. All you can do in cases like this is build both masters.

A side note for custom battles and multiplayer: Always make sure to buy valour for your troops, especially the generals unit. It makes the fight more interesting; it is considered bad form to show up in a multiplayer game with a large army of valour 0.

What is disciplined and elite?
Disciplined and elite are two special statuses that a unit can have.
1.Disciplined means the unit is less likely to chase off after enemy units when it is in the impetuous morale state. It also means that the unit doesn't care about routing units on its own side unless they are of disciplined or elite status. The death of your general also has a reduced effect on disciplined units morale. This means that routing peasants and the like can no longer panic your army. If a unit does not possess disciplined status by default the only way to add it is to build the military academy in one of your production provinces. This will not add the disciplined tag to your unit but it will increase their discipline slightly. Units like knights still tend to be impetuous even with the discipline upgrade.

2.Elite is a status that only the best troops have. It is similar to disciplined in that it means the unit ignores some routers, in this case anyone who isn't elite themselves. Elite does not make a unit easier to control and it can never bee added to a unit that doesn't already possess it.

Both of these statuses are highly desirable. You should try to use more units that have one of these statuses than units that have no special status to make your army harder to rout in one go.

Why does morale matter when choosing troops?
Morale is vital to your army. When it gets too low units will begin to flee the field and you will loose unless you can rally them. The higher a units natural morale the harder it is to make them rout. When offered a choice between a unit with high morale and one with low morale you should try to choose the one with higher morale unless it is inferior in other ways (for example chivalric sergeants are better than feudal sergeants despite having lower morale). There is a section about morale on the battlefield in chapter 3.2 so take a look.

You can improve a unit's morale when you build it if there is a religious building in the province. When you right click on the building it will note if it gives a bonus (if you have the Viking Invasion anyway, if not you are looking for churches, cathedrals, mosques and grand mosques). This is definitely recommended; make sure you have the first religious building in the chain in every unit-producing province.

2.4 Mercenaries
You should always aim to use fewer mercenaries; in fact you should avoid mercenaries unless you have no choice. Not only are they expensive but also you can't retrain them so they get outdated equipment (bad) and loose vast quantities of men just when they get to a high valour (worse). Mercenaries are good for emergencies where you need troops now, maybe even yesterday. Otherwise just use your own men, they're cheaper and can be retrained so they survive to get really good valour after a few battles.

You can use mercenaries for suicide attacks by raising an army of them and sending them to attack immediately. Kill as many of your enemy's troops as possible in one turn with this army. If you conquer a province destroy all the buildings in it, don't try to keep it. Then disband the mercenary army. You will have paid very little and done a lot of damage. You can also put mercenaries into crusades, while they are fighting for the glory of God you don't need to pay them. Just remember to sack them the moment the crusade finishes, or you will have to pay them again.

Finances and provinces
Fortunately economics in Total War are quite simple. Your main income comes from three main sources:
1. Farming Each province produces income based on farming. Some provinces are particularly rich others are very poor. To increase farming income you should build the various farming +xx% upgrades. At the start of a game building farming improvements everywhere is not a good idea. Instead you should build them in provinces that have good farming (say 200 florins) income already. This will get you your money back quicker. When you have a larger income you can then build the +20% improvements in poorer provinces. If a province has around 250 florins natural income (without any upgrades and at normal tax rates) then it is worth upgrading it to +40%. 300 florins natural income is worth upgrading to +60% and 400 florins is worth +80%. These are only guidelines; if you have tonnes of cash you can upgrade poorer provinces more. The tax levels adjust farming income. Generally speaking you should keep to normal taxes wherever possible. This is because higher taxes give your governors vices, which loose you money.

2. Mining If a province has gold, silver, copper or salt you can build the appropriate type of mine. Each resource gives a different income with gold being the richest and salt the poorest. Each mine can be upgraded to a mine complex to increase the income. Mines give fixed income, the amount is says in the information screen (called up by right clicking on the building) is all it ever gives. Mines are not affected by taxation or acumen.

3. Trade This is potently the biggest source of cash in the game. It is also the slowest and most expensive to set up. It is highly unreliable; you can only trade when you are at peace with a faction. Enemy ships can blockade your trade routes severing your income. To trade a province must have at least one trade item. You must then build a port and a trading post in that province. As long as there is a trading post you will get a small trickle of income based on land trade, however to get the real money you must trade over seas. To do this you must create an unbroken line of your ships going from the province with the trade good to an AI province with a port. You cannot trade with yourself or enemies. To really make trade worthwhile you must link to nearly every province on the map and stay at peace. I would not recommend becoming too reliant on trade, as the AI has been known to start a stupid war and bankrupt traders.

You also get the occasional cash gift of 1,000 florins from the Pope if you are Catholic. It is not known how you earn these gifts so don't rely on them.

To maximise your income give each province a governor with a minimum of three acumen. This will increase the provinces income significantly.

At the start of the game you should build any mines you can, followed by upgrading your richest farming provinces. Try to get a little bit of trade as soon as possible but don't rely on it, keep building up your farming.

The payback factor
How long does it take for an economic upgrade to pay for itself and start bringing in profit? Check this chart to find out. NB: This chart is not my work, I wrote it down from a post on economics over a year ago and I don't remember who wrote it originally.
Rich provinces are assumed to have 400 florins per turn or more in just farming income.
Average provinces have between 200-400 florins per turn in farming income.
Poor provinces have less than 200 florins per turn in farming income.

Break-even points.
Income 20% 40% 60% 80% farming upgrade
600 5 8 13 21 turns to break even
500 6 10 15 25
400 8 13 19 31
300 10 17 25 42
200 15 25 38 63
100 30 50 75 125
Mines = 10 years for all types.
Mine complexes = 15 - 18 years depending on type.

What to build for the shortest payback.
1.Upgrade rich provinces to 20%
2.Build mines.
3.Upgrade rich provinces to 40%
4.Upgrade average provinces to 20%
5.Upgrade rich provinces to 60%
6.Build mine complexes.
7.Upgrade average provinces to 40%
8.Upgrade poor provinces to 20%
9.Upgrade rich provinces to 80%
Special province bonuses
Some provinces have iron in them. Iron allows you to build the metal smith line, which upgrades the attack of your units. Provinces with iron are precious; there are only nine on the whole medieval map. If you are fortunate enough to own an iron province use it to build troops with upgraded attack.

There are provinces that possess a special bonus for a certain type of troop when it is built there. For example Wales gives +1 valour to all longbowmen built there. These provinces are highly desirable if they give a bonus to a unit you can construct. If you own a province that gives a bonus to a unit you like to use, build it up and take advantage of it

Rebellions and loyalty
When a provinces loyalty dips below 100 it has a chance to rebel. This is not a Good Thing unless you are trying to train your generals up on self-created rebellions. To keep loyalty high you should always keep a garrison of at least 100 men in each province. Buildings like churches increase happiness, which in turn increases loyalty so try to build a church (or Mosque) in each province. A governor's dread rating also affects loyalty. High dread raised loyalty because the peasants are too afraid to rebel, so you may want to consider assigning high dread governors to particularly troublesome provinces. Normally acumen is more important than dread though.

Taxes have the largest impact on loyalty; you should adjust your taxes on a province-by-province basis and check each turn to see if they need adjusting. If you have the Viking Invasion you can safely leave auto tax on to manage your taxes. If you don't have VI don't trust auto tax In Viking Invasion the minimum loyalty threshold auto tax tries to maintain is 120, in plain medieval it is only 100. This means that your provinces are likely to rebel after a tiny hiccough in your empire, for example a king dieing and being replaced by an heir without a virtue giving a happiness bonus. Always tax to maintain 120 loyalty at the minimum as it gives you a larger margin for error for those occasions where things start to go wrong.

What about faction re-emergences?
Faction re-emergences are easy to manage when you know how. First the basics:
1)A faction will only re-emerge if it has been completely killed i.e. it has no provinces left and it doesn't have an army left under siege in a castle. You will receive a message each time a faction is eliminated.
2)A faction can re-emerge in any province it has owned, even if the province was held for just one turn. This means that the Egyptians can reappear in Scotland as long as they held Scotland for one or more turns.
3)A re-emergence is another form of rebellion and it can be managed in the same way. Keep your provinces loyal and you will probably never see a re-emergence.

So what does a re-emergence consist of? Generally one or more provinces will be overrun by an army belonging to the faction that just reappeared. The army can be of varying size and quality, if you are lucky you will meet a handful of peasants however you could meet a horde of angry knights so make sure you know what you are up against. You can find out what units a re-emergence has by checking the army token that appears in the turn you get the message telling you that faction X has returned. The actual fighting will begin the turn after this message so take the chance to send in a good army or two so you can fight a defensive battle against the upstarts. When all the factions new armies are dead and any provinces it took are re-conquered the faction returns to the land of the dead, hopefully never to return.

The only way to guarantee no re-emergences is to not kill the faction. Instead you should conquer all their provinces except one. Place good armies in each province that borders on this last stronghold and just ignore the faction. They will not be strong enough to attack you as long as you keep a reasonable border force, so you can keep them like a pet until the end of the game when you can send in the heavies and crush them along with any other nearly dead factions.

2.6 Securing your borders
All you really need to secure your borders is one defensive army (see chapter 2.3) and a border fort to catch most enemy agents. You should have a border fort in all provinces but they are especially important in the border provinces as most enemy agents enter your empire through them. The forts also allow you to keep an eye on the neighbouring provinces. You should probably build a castle in your border provinces in case your army is defeated. The army would withdraw to the castle giving you a second chance to defeat the attacker.

Where you have your borders is very important. You should always try to keep as small a border as you can. Take advantage of the natural bottlenecks on the map to keep borders down to one or two provinces. The main body of Europe (France, Germany, the Steppes etc) are the only part of the map where this is not possible. In this part of the map you should aim to move forward in a manner that keeps the number of border provinces to the absolute minimum i.e. if you hold Ile de France, Flanders, Anjou and Toulouse don't conquer Champagne because you will add one more province to your border. Instead you should try to conquer Burgundy, as this will keep your border to four provinces. You will be able to advance your defending army from Anjou to Burgundy so you won't need to build any new defending armies.

2.7 Diplomacy
Diplomacy in Total War is very simple. There are three states of relations allied, neutral and at war. You can use emissaries, Catholic bishops and princesses to propose various diplomatic things like peace, alliances and marriages. Only the emissary can offer all diplomatic proposals. The AI often won't accept your offers of cease fires, marriages or alliances. I don't know why, they turn down offers made by a faction lead by a king with high influence (the higher a kings influence, the more likely factions are to accept your proposals) for no obvious reason. Try to accept any offers of alliance, they are useful when you start a war. Generally the winner of the first battle in a war will keep their allies. The loser will find their allies deserting them. If the AI offers you a princess in marriage you should accept without delay. Foreign princesses allow your heirs to marry sooner and start an alliance, killing two birds with one stone.

Er, basically that's all you need to know about diplomacy - accept any offers of treaties and princesses, try not be the looser in the first battle of a war and don't waste too much time or effort offering the AI treaties and princesses as they rarely accept.

2.8 The Pope
If you want to play a Muslim or Orthodox faction then you needn't worry about the Pope. If you are Catholic however the Pope will be a major thorn in your side. I once heard the Pope compared to taking your mother on a date with you, this is truer than you might think. The Pope will step in and try to squash any fun wars you've got going against Catholics. He will send you threatening messages with an irritating sound effect. He will backstab and conquer his way to the top. Your job, should you choose to accept it, it to learn how to avoid and manipulate the Pope.

Excommunication
This is the main problem with the Pope. If you attack a Catholic faction he will (often) send you a cease and desist letter giving you two years to stop hostilities and a demand for ten years of peace between you and the Catholics you just attacked. If you don't do as he says you will get excommunicated. What does this mean for you? Firstly the crucifix on your king and generals info sheet will turn into a broken cross. Your king will loose some influence and the loyalty of both your generals and your provinces will drop. You are also a fair target for a crusade. Being excommunicated is not good, but it is survivable.

Getting recomunicated
There are only two ways to do this.
1. Let your king die (or kill him). When your king dies your faction is recomunicated. Drastic but helpful.
2. Wait for the Pope to die. Popes often take a while to die of disease so why not give them a helping hand? Send swarms of assassins over to kill the Pope until you succeed. You could also try burning him with a Grand Inquisitor, but this is harder, after all he is the Pope

Avoiding getting excommunicated in the first place
This is actually quite simple. Just attack and crush your target Catholics in two turns and the Pope won't care. Attack as many of their provinces as you can in one turn and then tidy up any sieges in the second one. Don't launch any more attacks for ten years and bingo The Pope doesn't whine. If the specified faction attacks you shouldn't get excommunicated unless you launch a counter attack into one of their provinces.

Alternatively you could try attacking another faction before your true target, the Pope can only track one warning at a time. For example, you want to attack the Spanish. Launch a small attack on the Holy Roman Empire (Germans) and receive your warning. Now withdraw and don't attack the Germans again for ten years. Because the Pope has warned you not to attack the Germans you can clobber the Spanish in peace.

The rules of excommunication, according to CA developer eat cold steel:
The rules for excommunication is quite simple. If a faction with twice the number of regions attacks, he gets a warning. Any aggressive action before the warning runs out leads to excommunication. Sally out of a besieged castle is not aggressive (since the patch) but retaking lost a region does count as aggressive. Attacking the papist is automatic excommunication. Blocking a crusade in conquest mode is automatic excommunication, in glorious goals mode it depends on if the crusade's object is a goal or not.

Being friendly with the pope has no effect on the rules. But he will send you cash if he has any spare.

Wouldn't it be easier to just get rid of the Pope?
Well on the face of it, yes it would be easier to conquer all the Popes' provinces. Unfortunately there are several problems:
1. You cannot crusade without the Pope. If you don't like to crusade this is not a problem. However crusading adds flavour to the game and most Catholic factions have crusading goals in their Glorious Achievements game.
2. You can't keep a bad Pope down. The Pope will keep re-emerge in his old provinces every few years. He will bring with him massive armies of high tech units. He will reappear every ten or so years, each time with a bigger army. In the unlikely event you survive the first reappearance the second will probably get you, if you survive the second, then the third will really do you in. It is not economic to keep two or more defensive armies in each of his old provinces, especially when you have to keep replacing heavy losses.

So I can't conquer the Pope entirely then?
Well, there is a slight loophole that makes keeping the Pope down easier. When you conquer all his provinces raze the buildings, put the taxes to high and pull all your armies out. The provinces should revolt. When the Pope reappears he will have to fight the rebel army first, leaving him weaker for your counter attack. However doing this robs you of the position of defender making the battle harder. You also have to keep micromanaging the provinces.

There is another loophole you may wish to take advantage of, as jaren recommends:
I was reading through the beginner's guide and noticed that you said that you can't keep the pope down. I've never had problems with that actually, toss an army into a couple of neighbouring provinces (leave the 100 man army in the pope's 2 provinces). When the pope returns, his power is based on the # of guys in the province at the time, since there is 100 men, it's based off 100, which will usually yield around 1500 men at the most, march your units in to defend and then afterwards just pull them back out again. jaren also adds that once the Pope vanished entirely and stopped re-remerging, but this was possibly a glitch since many players find the Pope is touchingly devoted to you, and always comes back to you no matter how many times you send him away...although he never brings you flowers and chocolates

Inigo Monttoya has this to add:
There is one more way to avoid excommunication when you go to war against a Catholic faction. I use it quite frequently to spank the French. This method gives you three years to wage war, but you HAVE to accomplish the final goal or you're screwed (spiritually speaking).

Plan your war to make sure that you send armies against the King and all Princes.

Attack in Year 1 (Get warned) - no prisoners (don't ransom back any members of the royal line)

Year 2 - storm castles, if necessary. You can wait them out, IF they will only last one more year. Prepare as much of your army as possible to go up against any remaining members of the royal line.

Year 3 - Take out the royal line - no mercy. If you end the royal line, the kingdom degenerates to rebel status... AND THE POPE DOESN'T CARE

The cool thing now is that you are going up against rebel armies - or you can bribe them, and they're much cheaper than if they were a national military.

Plus, combining this with the 10-year/1-warning effect, you can wage two big wars at the same time (I usually wipe out France and Aragon, or hit the Spanish)

You can use the Pope to help you
This is sneaky but it works quite well. The excommunication rules apply to the other factions inexactly the same way as they do to you. Take advantage of it If you want to attack a Catholic country try to lure them into attacking first, they will get the warning and excommunication o_loompah gives this example:
Regarding the Pope, if the Italians/ Sicilians get too big for their boots - usually in the early game, you could also try to leave just enough units to prevent rebellion (say with a dreadful governor) but still weak enough to tempt the Italians/ Sicilians to invade. Pope reappears and excoms them leaving you able to crusade against the weakened Italians without penalty.

So there you go, just leave a weak border force and wait for the Pope to wade in, after that it's open season. To top it of you may even get some cash from the Pope for being such a good Christian

Getting on the Pope train...
Swordsmaster has the following tip to simultaneously keep the Pope out of things and train your armies:
Instead of feeding revolts to train my generals, I usually use a 3star general and make him fight the pope. That allows me to avoid excommunication (assuming I win), to raid Rome (which is quite worth it), train my general against someone more respectable, and retreat in a few turns, and also gain some influence...but the latter is just a side effect...

2.9 Agents
Most of what you need to know about agents is in the manual, so go read it. This section is just a collection of hints for specific agents.

Provinces
Try to keep one spy, one bishop/alim and one assassin in each and every province you own. This will keep loyalty and your religion high reducing the chance of revolt. This will also aid your border forts to catch enemy agents before they do some damage. If you have conquered a province of a different religion to yours you should place several holy men in the province to raise your religious percentage. Never leave inquisitors in your own provinces; they will begin burning the population reducing zeal and happiness.

Assassins
Send assassins after targets in packs. They often mess up and fail, especially when you are targeting a high-ranking general/king/Pope. If nine try with eight die and the last one succeeding you have a success. If one goes and fails you have nothing.

Spies
Don't forget spies can try your own generals for treason. This is a handy alternative to assassinating generals with low loyalty or bad vices. Spies can also open castle gates; the chances of success are very low however.

Inquisitors and Grand Inquisitors
Grand Inquisitors are only available after 1205. Both types of inquisitor act like assassins and they have one major advantage - if they fail they don't die. Use these guys instead of assassins if you can. Catholic only.

2.10 War
In the end this is that the game is all about - killing people

When should I attack?
At the start of the game some factions benefit from an early strike against their neighbours. The English should try to kill the French as quickly as possible to secure their lands and gain a better income. The Egyptians need to kill the Turks to reduce their borders. There are other examples but these two will do well enough. Apart from early strikes to safeguard your faction you should wait until all your borders are well protected and you have built up a set of provinces to produce high quality troops (for example the feudal series in early). When you reach this point you can build some attacking armies, usually you don't need more than three. Put each one in the command of a good general. Now you are ready to think about attacking. Before you launch an attack however you must answer these questions:
1. What are my objectives? What are you trying to do? Which provinces do you want to capture? Which faction are you attacking? Do you want to destroy or weaken your target? Do you want to shorten your border?
2. What is my long term aim? Are you raiding? Are you conquering? Are you conquering you way towards a certain province or faction?
3. Why am I attacking? Do you want money? Iron? A province specific unit or valour bonus? Are you just trying to kill off a faction? Are you attacking simply because you are bored?
4.Can I keep this province? Can you guard this province permanently or is this just a raid? Will taking this province weaken your overall defences?
5. What can I do with this province? Are you going to build it up to produce troops? Are you going to make money from it?
6. Will my attack succeed? Do you have enough troops for this battle? Do I have enough troops to replace losses? Will you be able to handle a counter attack? Do you have the correct troops for the battleground (e.g. lightly armoured troops for the deserts)?

When you can answer all of these questions positively you are ready to attack.

Where should I attack?
You should aim for provinces that give you something, don't attack somewhere just because it is there. Here are some examples of good targets:
1. Provinces that will narrow your border down allowing you to reduce defensive armies.
2. Provinces that are exceptionally rich.
3. Provinces with a good resource like iron, gold etc
4. Provinces that pose a threat to you, for example a province capable of producing high quality troops or one that intrudes into your empire.

Amphibious assault
Everything you need to know about amphibious assault is in the manual, page 34 in the UK edition. Go and read it.

Castle assaults
Assaulting a castle is something you will need to do at some point. You can either starve the enemy into submission by keeping an army in the province until you receive a message telling you the castle has fallen (right click on the castle to find out how many years you will be waiting), or attack right away with your army in an attempt to resolve the siege much faster. Both approaches have different advantages and needs.

Sitting and waiting: aka besieging.
This doesn't really require a very good army; you can leave several units of peasants sat outside the castle waiting for the enemy to starve. This is because unless the enemy attempt to sally out of the castle or enemy reinforcements arrive to try and break the siege no fighting is conducted. Instead all losses from both sides come from starvation, disease, other harmless things peasants scan take just as well as knights - better as peasants are far cheaper This approach is often slow, taking years to free up the castle but it can be much cheaper in terms of lives. It is not always possible to starve the enemy out; very small forces (say 5 men) inside a castle cannot be starved. In this case you have only one choice: assault.

Assault
Assaulting a castle is quite simple, all you need to do is drag and drop your chosen army onto the castle and end the turn. You will then be offered the choice to command the assault personally or auto-resolve it, if you take command you will proceed to the siege battle map and fight it out the same as any other battle...well with the exception of the large castle Before assaulting any castle you should make sure you have some siege engines in your army, wooden castles can have the walls knocked down by men whereas stone walls must be demolished by siege engines. Regardless of the castle type it is always preferable to have some siege engines to breach the walls as this reduces casualties - the defenders are hardly going to sit there while your army knocks on the gates and walls Even the most basic castle has some inbuilt archers who will fire as long as your men are in range. If you are absolutely desperate to attack a stone castle without siege engines note that while the walls are impervious to your men's weapons the gates are not, so target any gatehouses. If you have the VI add-on pack gatehouses will pour boiling oil on anyone attacking the gates, sizzling.

So I've attacked, now what?
Now you must tidy up the loose ends. Finish your war inside of two years if it's against another Catholic. If you or your target are not Catholic than you can take as long as you want. However it is not a very good idea to leave a war dragging on for a long time, so try to end it quickly. After the fighting is finished you should build the basics in each new province, give them a governor and build them up according to your plan.

2.11 Events
The early period starts in 1088
The high period starts in 1205
The late period starts in 1321
The Mongols invade in 1230
The game finishes at 1453 (1066 for the Viking campaign)
The compass is invented in 1170
Gunpowder is discovered in 1260

NB: When the compass is discovered you must also wait until 1205 before you can build a shipwrights guild. You also need a cannon foundry before you can build the shipwrights guild, the reason for this is unknown, as it is not listed on the tech tree or in the game.

1.12 Crusades and Jihads
A crusade requires the Pope to still be alive, so if you have conquered him you will not be able to crusade. If anything happens to the chapter house that build the crusade (i.e. it gets destroyed) the crusade will cease to exist along with all the troops in it. Every turn the crusade is active it can gain and loose troops. If it is in a province with high zeal it will recruit troops from the local armies. If it is in a province with low zeal men will desert.

A failed crusade will cost the king who sent it influence because he just made a prat out of himself on the world stage. This can cause a hit to loyalty across the kingdom. Crusades are expensive so you will have lost a pile of cash for no gain if it fails.

How to have a successful crusade
1. Build up a large quantity of good troops, no mercenaries, peasants or rubbish like that, just good solid feudal or better troops. Avoid armour upgrades and any unit with more than 5 in armour, as they will be cooked under the desert sun.
2. Build a chain of ships from a province of yours with a port to the destination. This is important as it allows you to send the crusade to its target in one turn preventing desertion and sucking up of your troops.
3.Build your crusade marker, preferably in a coastal province with a port connected to the chain of ships.
4.Target your crusade. Immediately put all those troops you trained in the crusade. For heavens sake, DON'T put your king in it That would cause all kinds of problems that you don't want to encounter, trust me Also don't put your heir to the throne in. Now move it to its target, which it will reach in one turn because of the ships.
5. Kill the infidel
It's a long build up because it needs to be. A failed crusade loses you plenty and gains you nothing. Remember crusades can hold at least 32 units so don't be afraid to build two armies worth of troops.

Jihads are basically the same except they build quicker and don't rely on the existence of the Pope. They can also only be targeted at a province that was previously owned by a Muslim faction, even if it was only for one turn.

What can I do about other factions crusades?
You will be asked if you want to allow the crusade safe passage. If you agree the crusade will ramble through your empire sucking up your troops (or cash in the case of an Orthodox or Muslim faction). If you refuse the crusade will attack. Sometimes the crusade will just sit on your borders not daring to attack if you have a good enough defensive army, in this case it will slowly fade away as men desert. Generally as long as you have a good defensive army you can refuse crusades without too many problems. Be aware that fighting a crusade acts as a declaration of war on its home faction. To lower the number of your units joining a crusade if you let it into your empire you should lower zeal in all your provinces. To do this place an inquisitor in your province and leave him to burn your population (he will do this automatically, zeal will increase at first but as soon as you get the message about the inquisition spiralling out of control zeal will drop rapidly).

If you are the target faction your choice is much more simple, you can kill the crusade or let it kill you

Crusader knights
Crusader type knights are only available in crusades - you cannot build them like the other units. Knights Templar, of Santiago, Hospitaller, Teutonic, Order foot Teutonic sergeants are crusade specific units. To get these units build a crusade and set its target province. Units will appear in your crusade and there is a chance some of those units will be amongst them. Each Catholic faction has a set of knights that are common to it, for example the Spanish get knights of Santiago. When the crusade is over and you are victorious you will be able to keep the crusade specific units and use them as any other unit with a single exception - you cannot retrain them. This means they cannot get upgrades or replace dead men, the only way to fix up your damaged unit is to merge it with another crusader unit of the same type.

frogbeastegg
07-23-2003, 22:33
3. The battle map
This is the most spectacular, and in my opinion, the most rewarding part of the game. The degree of realism and importance of tactics is nearly unmatched by any other game out there. The battle mode can stand alone as a whole game, which would be worth paying full price for. Unfortunately for the beginner it is even more complex than the campaign map. The first thing you should do is play the tutorials as they will give you a grasp of the basics. After you have finished all the tutorials you should play custom battles with different factions and units as both the attacker and defender. This section of my guide will give you the basic knowledge you will need to win battles. It won't teach you any really advanced stuff; there are links for that kind of thing at the bottom. I will not go into the stats behind combat, as it is too complicated for this guide. Instead I will just note bonuses and penalties.

3.1 Basic aims
You might think that the only aim of the battlefield is to win; if you think this then you are wrong. There are more ways to win than killing your enemy. For example you may be attacked in the campaign game by a superior army, which you cannot hope to beat. A fighting retreat will cause some damage to the enemy without getting you pulverised. As long as you cause a lot of damage without taking many losses this is a victory. The highest form of victory on the battlefield is gained without spilling a drop of blood. If you position your troops correctly and drive the enemy back by out manoeuvring them they will eventually withdraw from the battlefield - you win without fighting. However generally speaking the aim of a battle is to kill enough of the enemy to cause the army to rout off the field leaving you the victor. Whether you are attacking or defending in the battle will alter your aims.

When defending
When defending the main aim is to stay on the high ground, keeping the advantage and using it to defeat the enemy without taking many losses.

When attacking
The main aim of the attacker is to manoeuvre his army so as to force the defender to abandon their position before the fighting begins. When they have been forced onto lesser ground you should engage them and try to cause as many casualties as possible while being careful not to lose too many yourself.

3.2 unit types
Total War uses the old rock -> paper -> scissors style of each unit being strong against one kind and weak against another. You must learn this formula if you want to win.
*Spears beat cavalry
*Cavalry beat swords
*Swords beat spears
*Archers beat anything that is at a distance, but lose in close fighting.
*Foot ranged units beat cavalry ranged units as they are more accurate and have a longer range.
*Camels beat horses.
There are very rare exceptions to this rule. For example some archers are good in hand-to-hand combat, like the longbowmen or Janissary infantry. Cavalry can beat spears if they charge them from behind and cause the unit to scatter, losing the bonus spears get from ordered ranks. Generally as long as you use common sense you will know when a unit stands a chance of beating its counter. To find out which archers are good in hand to hand fighting look at their stats in the unit tool noted in chapter 1.1, or check their entry in the unit guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453). Any archer with 2 or more in attack will do reasonably in hand to hand, although you shouldn't expect wonders as melee is only their secondary job.

Each unit type has an optimum deployment type:
-Spear armed infantry = a minimum of three ranks deep, preferably four. All spearmen get a bonus (+1 defence, +1 charge for each supporting rank and +1 attack for every two ranks). Spearmen can only receive support from two ranks; therefore they get the full bonus only when deployed in ranks three rows deep. The forth row supplies reinforcements so the unit can take losses without losing its fighting power too quickly.
-Pike armed infantry = they get the same bonus as spearmen, but they also get support from four rows as their weapons are longer. Therefore deploy them in ranks six men deep, five at the least.
-All other melee infantry = deploy them two ranks deep. Only spears and pikes get rank bonuses so you get better use out of your unit by placing them in a long, thin unit where the maximum number of men can engage in combat quickly. The longer length of the line also allows the unit to wrap around its opponents flanks giving it a bonus. There are occasions where a deeper formation can be useful, mostly when your unit is about to receive a cavalry charge. Depth gives more resistance to the charge, making it harder for the cavalry to fragment your unit's formation. However these occasions are generally not something you want to be worrying about as a beginner, the information can be found in the unit guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453) when you want it, just look under polearms, swords etc.
-Missile armed infantry = ideally you want these guys in ranks of two so they all get a clear shot. This increases accuracy. If the unit is in loose formation you can put them in ranks of three without receiving accuracy penalties.
-Gunpowder infantry = Leave these guys in ranks of three. They will use a rotating formation where the front rank fires and then moves to the back to reload while the next rank fires. They will only do this if they are in three or more ranks, if they are in two or less they will fire one big volley and take forever to reload.
-Melee armed cavalry = If your cavalry is going to be fighting hand to hand then it should be two ranks deep for the same reasons as melee infantry.
-Missile armed cavalry = Ideally they should be in ranks of two, however this is not always practical as the purpose of missile armed cavalry is to skirmish, which is more effectively done in a compact formation. I use them in ranks of three, as it is a good compromise between accuracy and manoeuvrability.

As for the engagement options hand-to-hand units like swordsmen should always be on engage at will, as should most melee cavalry. Spearmen need to use hold formation to keep their rank bonus, never take them off this setting. Missile units, both infantry and cavalry, can use the skirmish setting, which will pull them back from their target if it gets too close. Skirmish only works on the target not all enemy units and it can be very unreliable. At beginner level missile cavalry should use this most of the time, as their speed is good enough to get them out of the way. Just remember to keep an eye on them at all times and be ready to take over if they look like they are getting in trouble. Infantry archers are trickier. If you have them in a protected position you should turn skirmish off in favour of hold position. This will stop them leaving the protected position. If the unit is not protected you should probably leave them on skirmish, but remember that foot units are less effective skirmishers than cavalry because they are slower. Again this applies to beginner level tactics, there is quite a lot more to missile engagement modes, but you do not need to worry about that just yet. As ever the information can be found in the unit guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453) when you feel able to expand your horizons.

A special note on the gunpowder troops: (hand gunners, arquebusiers and Mamluk hand gunners) don't bother The accuracy on these units is so low they will only kill 4 men out of a formation of 133 in three volleys. They are pathetic. If you want them to have a use you must mod their accuracy to be better, you can find instructions in chapter 5.3. Well I suppose they do have some uses in damaging enemy morale, but that is more advanced than this guide is aiming. I shan't repeat myself by saying tactics for gunpowder units can be found in theunit guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453)...oh, wait - I just did repeat myself yet again

Javelin units also need a special mention. If you can use them effectively they are deadly, however they are one of the hardest units to use well. Javelins are short-range missiles that go straight through armour, making them one of the best-ranged units for killing heavy cavalry and generals until arbalesters come along in 1205. The short range means that any unit of javelins left on skirmish will never throw their weapon, as the range is below the safety threshold and they will pull back. So to get any results you need to take them off skirmish and put them on hold formation (engage at will tends to send them into melee fighting before using much ammo) and control them yourself. Attacking head on is not a good idea, you will only get one throw, and if you are against cavalry you won't even get that. Instead you must send the unit around the enemy's flanks once they are engaged with your melee infantry and order them to throw when they are behind a unit that is already fighting. You will lose some of your own men to friendly fire so don't do this if you are using expensive troops to pin the enemy in place. You can also try placing your javelin units behind your spearmen and ordering them to fire over the spearmen's heads. I find I lose more of my own men doing this than I do by flanking, but you should give both a go and see which you prefer. The key to using javelins is practise, so load a few custom battles.

A helpful note on cavalry: To increase your cavalry's effectiveness when chasing routers don't order them to attack, order them to move Double click past the routers so your cavalry will gallop through them on their way to the destination. This will cause your cavalry to mow the routers down without stopping, increasing their effectiveness nine fold This tactic is less useful when the enemy are not routing and the effect has been toned down due to the fixing of the so called swipe bug in patch 2.1, it remains useful against routers but should not be used against anything in a position to fight back.

To stand any chance of victory you must use a balanced army. An army of nothing but knights may look good but it costs a fortune and will be massacred by spears and pole arms, both of which are substantially cheaper. Make sure you have all four groups represented in your army: spears, swords, bows and cavalry. When you get better you can try leaving out spears in favour of something like pole arms but it takes experience to know what you can swap with what.

For more specific and in depth information on units try looking at the Complete Total War Unit Guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453).

Morale
Morale is the make or break factor in battle. If your morale gets too low your units will start to run. Each fleeing unit gives a morale penalty to friendly units that can see it, unless they possess the disciplined or elite status and the router doesn't. To keep morale high you should act as the tutorial showed you: keep your units together, protect their flanks, don't make them turn their back on an enemy, make sure they are winning without taking too many losses. There is more on morale in chapter 2.3.

What are those little flags visible on each unit?

1
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/bgvalourflag.jpg

The little triangular flag highlighted by the box represents a single point of valour. The unit in the picture has four little flags so that tells you the unit is at valour 4. The single large flag in the middle is the unit's standard and represents nothing except the location of the unit's leader. If the man carrying the standard gets into a fight the rest of his unit will try to reach him, generally the standard bearer will try to keep pace with his unit so if most of the men are engaged in combat he will wander over and join in. If a unit only has the standard and no other flags this means the unit is valour 0 and easy pickings.

Charging
A common misconception is that you need to double click on the enemy to get your unit to charge. This is not true, all you need to do is single click and the leader of the unit will order a charge within a certain distance of the enemy. By double clicking you are ordering your unit to run, which is a different thing from charging. Allowing the unit to walk saves energy and micromanagement, so for best results just single click and let your officers do the rest.

To charge or not to charge, that is the question. There is no simple answer to this question, there are times when you should charge and times when you shouldn't. The basic rule of thumb is charge with everything except spears whenever they are going to enter combat. This gives the unit its charge bonus and gives it a better chance of doing damage in the first few seconds of combat. Spear units are the exception for a good reason - they need to stay in ordered ranks to receive their rank bonus. Charging disrupts the ordered ranks, even if the unit is on hold formation. Worse still is the fact that a spear unit will halt its charge the moment a single man comes into contact. This means that only one man gets the charge bonus for less than one second, while the formation is disrupted causing a loss in stats. Spearmen only get a small charge bonus anyway and their job is to hold the enemy in position while other units do the killing by flanking. So basically you should charge with everything except spears, until you can recognise the times where the exceptions to this rule take place.

3.3 The landscape
To find victory you must use and understand the landscape. I will give a basic rundown here but if you really want to know the tiny details find a copy of Sun Tzu's 'The Art of War'. This book is the original and best guide to conducting a war; reading and absorbing its contents will improve your game immeasurably as Total War was designed around it.

Height
Height is critical. To put it bluntly the person with the high ground has a much better chance than the one on the low ground. Any unit on high ground gets a +2 morale bonus and attack bonuses against any unit lower than it. All ranged units gain extra range and damage. Any unit fighting up hill will receive penalties and get tired faster. No matter what you do you should never attack up hill unless there is absolutely no option. When you are defending you should cling to your hills and refuse to be drawn down off them. If you are attacking height is much more tricky. You should try flanking your opponent while remaining out of range. This can cause them to move to a less advantageous position to avoid being hit in the rear. If they don't move then you will have some slight reduction of the height penalties because you will be attacking from several sides. You should also look for any high ground nearby and try to attack from it, as you will reduce the height penalty by reducing the height difference.

Trees
Cavalry and spearmen are both at a disadvantage in trees. Cavalry receive a big penalty and spearmen are prevented from getting their supporting ranks bonus. Therefore you should try to engage these units in forests if you need to fight them with unsuitable units like swordsmen. You must keep your own cavalry and spears out of the forests unless you really want them to die.

Trees also provide cover from missile fire as the trees catch the arrows. Some arrows will inevitably get through but many will be stopped. If you are fighting a missile heavy army try hiding in the woods until they use up their ammo. Putting your own missile units in forests and expecting them to do much damage is stupid.

You can spring ambushes from trees; this is covered in the tutorials.

Bridges
If you are defending then a bridge is a fantastic boon. If you are attacking then it is your worst nightmare. Units can only cross bridges slowly and in single file. This makes then a big fat target for missiles. When they are coming off the bridge they are still subject to the penalties for being crowded together. This makes them easy targets for the enemy's hand-to-hand units. Crossing any bridge is a bloody job, which will cost many lives. There are ways to reduce this though.

Firstly use units with very heavy armour, preferably above 6. This will protect them from the incoming missiles better. They will also be able to hang on in the close fighting on the other side for longer, giving you more time to get extra men across.

Secondly you should bring your own missile weapons and try to lure the enemy onto the bridge by sending a rubbish unit like peasants out onto the bridge. When the enemy sends a unit to attack pull your men back. Hopefully the enemy will get into missile range and you can shoot them. Keep doing this until you run out of missiles.

Thirdly you should know that in MTW the AI will only defend one bridge if there are several in the map. Send a detachment around to the second bridge to flank the enemy before you begin to cross.

Fourthly bring plenty of troops; you will need at least 2-1 odds in your favour, probably more.

Fifthly, on the campaign map, you should send overwhelmingly massive armies to bridge provinces to try and force the AI with withdraw without a fight. This is the only way to win a bridge battle without substantial losses.

Defending a bridge is easy. Bring plenty of missile units and some good hand-to-hand units like men at arms. Shoot the enemy while they are on the bridge and send in the melee fighters as they are just coming off the bridge. You will hit them while they are disorganised and still crowded with a penalty and should be able to do plenty of damage before routing them. When the enemy rout you should pull back and do it again. Never be fooled into chasing across the bridge or you will be subject to the same crowding penalties and missile fire.

Desert
This one deserves a special mention because it provides a bonus to camels and tires any unit with more than 5 armour out much quicker than usual. Camels are deadly in the desert, especially to horses. They receive a penalty if you take then to a lush province though.

3.4 Generals and Kings
On the battlefield a king is always in some kind of heavy cavalry unit like royal knights or Ghulam bodyguards. A general can be any kind of unit but they usually appear in more expensive units like knights. Generals and kings both have more health than any other unit on the battlefield. It takes more than one hit to kill them. This can lead to some unbelievable situations where a king or general will fight their way out of an army single-handed. This phenomenon has been nicknamed 'Jedi Generals'. The best way to kill a general or king is to attack him with ranged units. Only two men are allowed to attack a man in melee but there is no limitation on missiles shot at a man. Therefore a units worth of arrows provides a greater chance of hitting for damage. If you can't shoot the king you should surround him with his counter unit and keep attacking, you will probably get him eventually.

A general or king can bestow a valour bonus on his army by way of his stars. For every second star a general has all units under his command will receive a point of special valour. This valour only gives +1 attack +1 defence, it doesn't give a morale bonus like regular valour.

3.5 When to fight and when to withdraw.
This is something you will need to learn from experience. There are occasions where your army doesn't stand a chance so you should withdraw on the campaign map without entering battle. These occasions are often obvious e.g. you have a single unit of peasants against 12 units of knights. There are other occasions where it comes down to a personal decision based on circumstances, I can't help you there. When on the battlefield taking part in a fighting retreat or quick attack designed to damage the enemy army rather than defeat it the time to withdraw is a very delicate issue. If you pull back to soon you will not do much damage, if you leave it too late you will be run down by the enemy as you leave.

The first thing to note is that you withdraw by pressing control+W not control+O, which is tied to rout on default. Routing is a panicked flight, which will earn your general the 'good runner' vice (not a good thing) if he uses this method personally to leave the field. All control over a routing unit is lost unless it rallies, either by itself (not helpful if you want the unit to go away as the unit will just stand there doing nothing) or by your order (not reliable so it cannot be guaranteed to recall previously unwanted units to the battle). Withdrawing is a calm process that caries no penalties. However it is slow and you lose control of your troops once the command is given unless you first order them to halt.

Ideally you want to use up a lot, if not all, of your missile ammo before telling your missile units to withdraw. If you are fighting to cause as much damage as possible to a superior foe before leaving the field with as much of your army intact as possible it is at this point you will then send in the sacrificial melee units you bought to hold up the enemy while the bulk of your army leaves. Try to keep your melee units fighting in good order so they last longer and do more damage. Remember their job is not really causing a lot of damage; that should have been done by your missile units - anything you get from those sacrificial men is simply a bonus.

3.6 Sieges

Unfortunately sieges are pretty dull to fight. If you are the attacker you should bring along the best artillery you can as well as many tough, well-armoured hand to hand units. All cavalry can dismount in a siege; this is especially useful in the case of the various knights as they become powerful infantry able to slaughter the defenders en mass. Why dismount in a siege? Simple, the main use of cavalry is speed and manoeuvrability. Neither of these attributes are needed in a siege as the enemy is nicely penned up in the castle or stood around just outside. The horse just makes cavalry a bigger target in a siege. Most missile units are useless in a siege, the walls block the shots so leave them at home.

You should knock several holes in the walls before sending anyone in to attack. Use up all your ammo before moving in; try to destroy as many towers as you can to limit defensive fire, but only target the towers when you have at least two ways to get into the castle. When you attack through the breaches do it quickly and from several directions to force the defenders to split their forces and maximise your chances of breaking through on at least one front. Send in as many men as you can, as quickly as you can, and overwhelm the defenders.

When you are defending you should also dismount your cavalry and forget missile units for the same reasons as mentioned above for the attackers. Wait for the enemy in the centre of the castle, force them to walk past all the towers taking casualties. When they reach the centre you should try to swarm them in a cramped area, like when they come through a gatehouse or breach.

Sieges aren't over until the last defender dies or the last attacker routs.

3.7 Tactics and fighting styles.
Ok, this is only going to be a basic run-through of some of the ways to fight. If I did a comprehensive list it would be longer than this entire topic I'll divide it by religion as most religions hare similar units and styles.

Catholics
Catholic armies are made to slug it out in a relatively conventional manner. There are not especially manoeuvrable (by this I mean that most of their units have average speed for their type) and most of their units really suffer in the desert due to their heavy armour. You should always use a core of infantry to hold a stable centre and launch other attacks from. A line of spears with archers behind and swordsmen on the flanks is a very versatile formation, especially in early before the appearance of polearms. Place your general in the middle or on a flank at the back where he will be protected and can provide a morale boost to many units at once. Cavalry should go on the wings. For example:

2
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/cathattack1.jpg

The whole thing should be able to move forward together, keeping everyone well covered. The cavalry can easily detach to charge around an enemies flank or intercept a flanking attempt. The spearmen will engage the enemy in a line and the melee infantry are positioned to flank the enemy easily when the spears are holding them in place. The ranged units are protected and will be able to fire continuously, however in some circumstances you may find it beneficial to send the archers forward so they are in front of the rest of the army. Times where you may want to send your archers forward include when you are expecting heavy incoming missile fire (let the cheap archers take the damage, rather than more expensive units), when you will be shooting at units with a significant height advantage (if the enemy are much higher up their ranged units will have a very significant range advantage over yours, sending your missile units forward lets them absorb the damage, and also allows them to advance far beyond your army to conduct the missile duel without endangering your better units), or when you have many missile units and want to lay down a rain of arrows (stick some missiles in front of your army and some behind the spears), or when you do not mind more micromanagement and wish to give your archers the best possible view of their targets (deploy the missiles out in front, let them shoot and then manually pull them back behind the spearwall at the last possible moment. This takes practise and experience to do well, as you have to know how long it will take your men to fall back, and how long it will take the enemy to reach you). This formation can handle both attack and defence. Most factions can use it successfully as long as they can provide spearmen, heavy cavalry, melee infantry and archers.

The ultimate in Catholic defensive formations is the half-sexagon:

3
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/cathdefense.jpg

(NB: The formation is viewed from a slight angle, the long line made up of two units of spearmen is the front) This shape is formed with four spearmen. A unit of men at arms or other melee infantry is placed behind each set of spearmen and archers. Ranged units are placed behind the spearmen and need to be on hold position and hold formation to stop them moving. A group of cavalry is placed on each flank. Spare units can be placed in the middle of the formation for protection and later deployment. For best effects you should place it so the open edge is next to an impenetrable barrier like a cliff or the edge of the map. The spearmen should all be on hold position and hold formation. Don't ever tell them to do anything other than stand there. The enemy will approach while being shot up by the archers. They will charge the spearmen who will not move and will receive the full rank bonus. Unless the enemy is a sword type they will not win the fight, they will take losses from the spearmen even though they haven't been told to attack. The melee infantry can move out through the spearmen to engage the enemy or can be sent running around to flank. The cavalry is already positioned to flank the enemy the moment they are engaged. Generally the enemy will rout within a minute. This formation is very handy for when you are out numbered and desperate. It is only for defence; using it to attack will get you shredded. Other factions can use this formation but it is highly dependant on well-armoured spearmen, they need to be able to hold out with few losses for a long time. Using lighter spearmen will result in heavy casualties and a mass rout. Be warned that once a tiny part of this formation crumbles the whole thing will collapse very quickly - you will either win and survive or be crushed messily. Fortunately the formation is exceptionally resilient so it should hold together unless swordsmen kill your spears or your enemy has a large advantage in terms of technology.

From high era this formation can be tweaked with new unit types to expand the principle and become far more flexible, like so:

4
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/poleformation.jpg

Several of the changes are immediately obvious, but some of the other implications are only visible to the more experienced eye. Firstly the spears are gone, completely replaced by polearms, in this case halberdiers. Secondly the shape of the formation is now slightly different, the four halberdiers make up a single straight row instead of the half-sexagon shape the spears made, the sloped flanks are now made up of chivalric foot knights, another polearm unit. Why? Simply put halberdiers have poor morale and need their flanks protecting and guarding well or they risk routing. Chivalric foot knights have sky-high morale and excellent fighting capacity, so they make perfect anchors for the formation's flanks. Remember also that most of the heavy fighting and morale sapping penalties will hit the flanks, as the enemy try to hit you at the weak point flanks often represent. Therefore the foot knights will both survive the worst penalties and ensure the halberdiers get a chance to stand and fight for a long time. Please note that you do not have to use foot knights to anchor the flanks, any infantry unit with high morale and good fighting power will do, however foot knights are the best of the best for the Catholics and can be obtained quite easily in a manner that makes your army more versatile - simply build chivalric knights and dismount them when you reach a battle where this formation is more use than the speed and mobility of cavalry. The longer frontline provided by the four halberdiers in a line also makes it harder for the enemy to swarm your formation. You may notice that the halberdiers are in three ranks, rather than the two ranks that will allow them to wrap about enemy units and cause more damage. This is because I am assuming (pretty much inevitable given the nature of this formation) that they will be receiving a lot of charges by both infantry and cavalry, therefore three ranks will give them a better chance of resisting the devastating effects of a strong charge on a thinly spread unit. Another immediately obvious change is in the position of the missile units - they are now deployed in front of the formation by default. This is because the appearance of the crossbow and arbalest has forced a change in tactics, unlike bows these weapons can only fire in a straight line, so no arcing shots over the heads of units in front. These crossbowmen benefit from being on hold position/hold formation so they do not move, ever. Instead of withdrawing them as the enemy get close you will take advantage of the polearm unit's lack of rank bonuses and charge them forward - unlike spear units polearms have no bonus that is best maintained by standing still. It takes a bit of practise and experience to learn precisely when to start your men running forward (double click the target, remember this is not ordering a charge, just a run to get the men out to fight quicker) so they hit the enemy before your missiles get engaged in melee, but without moving too soon and losing valuable shooting time. The swordsmen, general and heavy cavalry are all in the same positions and serve the same purposes as they did in the spear-based version of this formation.

With the dawn of late the pike becomes available and a new type of formation along with it.

5
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/PikeDiagram.jpg

The core, and real fighting power, of this army comes from the 6 units of pikemen right in the centre. They will be doing most of the work; everyone else is just there to support them. This formation replies on several key things, and if any of them fail you are in a bad situation. The good news is that this formation works equally well for both attacking and defending and can be quite devastating when everything goes well. It all focuses on the pikes and how they work, keep them in a position where they can do their job and you should be fine. What do the pikes need to do their job? Protection, [purely and simply their flanks must be guarded at all times and they must stay in tight, orderly formation as all the pike units advance and fight together in a wall. Reach unit of pikes needs to be in a minimum of 6 ranks, and deployed as close as possible (but not so close the units automatically start to move away from each other) to their neighbour on each side. Leave no gaps, make sure the line is straight, only move as a group and keep that formation dressed Always but always make sure your pikes are in hold formation, don't order them to run (as that will increase the chances of them losing formation and even a slight disruption really matters here), and try to let them stop frequently to redress their formation. The unavoidable flanks at the far ends are protected by a unit of swords (or polearms, or another unit of high morale and good combat power infantry) and a unit of heavy cavalry. They present a strong force that discourages the enemy from harassing your flanks, as well as being strong enough to see off most flanking attempts before they pose much of a threat to the pikes. They can also move forward to engage the enemy's flanks when the pike wall has engaged the main enemy body. The general's unit and the third unit of swords are there to plug any gaps in the main line, or to go fight at trouble spots; in essence they are your reserve. In front of the pikes you can see two units of arbalesters, they will do as much damage to the enemy as possible before the pikes reach contact. If you wish you can swap the arbalesters for gunpowder units, but this is not advisable - there are other units that are more disposable in this army and your arbalesters are practically required to handle any serious missile requirements. Gunpowder units will not be able to cause damage like arbalesters can, but with a lot of careful usage and some good luck they can cause severe morale damage to the enemy and encourage them to rout far quicker. I would say no more than two units of guns if you are absolutely determined to play with fire, swap two of the heavy cavalry units (the ones at the back in this formation) for the guns, and deploy your guns on the flanks of the pikes just in front of your swords. When the pikes engage the enemy let the guns fire into the enemy flanks at close range, they will do a tiny bit of damage and start causing big morale penalties in any unit they shoot - including yours, so do be careful of friendly fire If those two units of cavalry are so disposable you may wonder why I included them, simply they provide mobility and extra protection for those oh so critical flanks, as well as being a highly mobile reserve and a ace in your sleeve as most heavy cavalry (particularly knights, and let's face it if you are playing Catholic you will be using knights rather than the other types of heavy cavalry) will dismount into great infantry. Gothic or chivalric foot knights really pack a punch. This formation really does need flat and clear ground, as you may imagine hiking up and down hills or through trees disrupts the line, and then the enemy will start to exploit those gaps making your pike wall crumble to dust. If you can use Swiss armoured pikemen for this formation you should leap at the chance, as they are the best pikes in the game. Swiss pikemen are a tolerable substitute, generic pikemen are rather lack lustre and should be heavily upgraded in all possible fields (attack, defence, morale, armour) before you consider using them.

What do you do when your faction has many types of spear units but not many other unit types (for example many factions in the Viking campaign)? The spear wall is a good solution.

6
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/SpearWall.jpg

The spear wall is a bit of a pain really, it forces you to break those neat rules for optimising your spear's fighting prowess and to faff about keeping exceptionally well dressed ranks at all times. It is quite similar to a primitive version of the pike wall above, in that you must deploy your units as close together as possible, in a very neat and straight line, and with the flanks protected exceptionally well. The example of the spear wall in this diagram is from the Viking era, using the Saxons. It is set up to attack, if this army was defending it would be beneficial to make a larger version of the half-sexagon defensive formation outlined above, with the archers placed firmly in the centre. In the early Catholic formation shown above the archers are deployed behind the spears, even when attacking except in very limited circumstances. In this formation that is not the case - it is only in rare circumstances that the archers go behind the front line of spears. This is mostly because of the second line of spears you can see forming the reserve. When you need those reserve spears to get into the fight you need them there quickly, if they have to push past archers to get to the fighting their formation will be disrupted and it will slow them down, a small thing indeed but it can prove disastrous. The huscarles and other non-spear units can push their way past archers a bit faster (well it seems that way to me) and they don't need to keep their formation immaculate to receive a rank bonus. That is the crucial difference in deciding where to deploy the archers. You may be wondering why the spear units forming the reserve and on the flanks are labelled as high morale spears, this is because the average spear unit has poor morale and is therefore prone to routing when flanked or moving in to support a damaged and possibly fleeing army. Most factions in the Viking era can access a spear unit with good morale, but somewhat poorer stats for straight up fighting. In this diagram armoured spearmen form the fighting core, while Fyrdmen with their high morale/low armour support them. If you swapped the unit's roles around your fyrd would take heavier casualties and rout even with their high morale, whereas the armoured spearmen would be wasting their combat power and fleeing as soon as the fyrd begin to waver, making their function as a reserve useless. Unless you manage to tempt the enemy into charging at you as you advance to attack you will have to charge your own spears and risk losing that all important rank bonus. The best you can do if forced to charge yourself is to walk to contact keeping that line and the individual units well formed up, before assigning individual targets you your units when very close to the enemy and letting the unit's officers order the charge. Running or advancing piecemeal will only hasten and exaggerate the collapse of your ranks. However where possible you should concentrate in advancing just short of the enemy lines, and shooting them with your archers until they move to attack you, then let your spears stand firm on hold position and take the charge. This formation can handle rough ground, but trees, steep hills, and mountains will cause no end of trouble.

Catholics in the desert.
If you need to fight in the desert you should use troops with less than 5 armour. Don't use armour upgrades and you will be able to take the entire feudal line of units into the desert with few problems. There are also kerns and gallowglasses that fare especially well in the desert, so try to capture Ireland before leaving for hotter parts. The English and French can also build hobilars; powerful light cavalry that perform well in most conditions so take advantage of them if you are heading to the desert as either of these factions.

Cheetah has pointed out that the Catholics do have at least one type of ranged cavalry each, so it is possible to create a more cavalry heavy army in the same style as the Muslim and Orthodox factions. Personally I prefer the infantry route but you should try both and make up your own mind.

Muslims
The Muslims are built more towards fast cavalry and missile attacks than toe-to-toe slugging matches like the Catholics. You need to play them with a more hit and run style. They should have more cavalry in the armies than the Catholics, especially cavalry archers. You can base an army around a line of six or so spear types which will hold a centre your cavalry can work from and retreat to.

7
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/muslimattack.jpg

The ranged cavalry are at the front, while the heavier cavalry and the general are protected behind the spear wall awaiting a chance to flank. Send out groups of ranged cavalry to pepper the enemy with arrows. If they charge you should pull back and see if they follow. If they do follow you should jump the unit with several of your own and destroy it before help can arrive. Keep doing this until the enemy is so warn down you can crush them in hand to hand. Always use your camels against horses, as they are highly effective.

The Turks deserve a special mention for their Janissary troops. In the late period they can form an effective army consisting of a main line of Janissary heavy infantry with ranged support provided by Janissary archers and infantry. This allows them to fight in a similar manor to the Catholics, as Janissary heavy infantry is probably the best melee unit in the game, able to crush most opposition.

The Almohads are also a special case. At the beginning of the game they don't have much cavalry. Instead they have the best Muslim infantry unit until the Janissaries start to appear - the Almohad urban militia. They are very strong swordsmen, equipped just like the Catholic feudal men at arms. You should use these guys to form the bulk of your army, let them attack anything that isn't on a horse. Bring along whatever spearmen you can build to take on the cavalry.

8
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/almoattack.jpg

Here the units of Almohad urban militia hold a front line (they should be in ranks two deep but I had to deploy them in threes to get them to fit in the picture) with a unit of spears on each flank. Directly behind the militia are some archers. Reinforcements and the generals unit are at the back protected until they are needed. The Almohad urban militia can kill cavalry if they gang up of them, especially if you use a unit to hit from the rear. You should also consider placing your men in forests if you are fighting on a map that has them, this makes the militia into deadly killing machines that can take out almost any early period unit, as the militias counter units become weak in the trees.

Orthodox
The Russians should be played in a similar manor to the Muslims as they share the same emphasis on skirmishing and ranged units. The Byzantines however can be played similar to both the Catholics and the Muslims due to their superb Byzantine infantry and selection of cavalry. A 50-50 balance between infantry and cavalry is good as it takes advantage of all the Byzantines special units, for example this army has 7 units of cavalry (including the general) and the rest is assorted special Byzantine infantry:

9
http://www.totalwar.org/strategy/frog/BzyDiagram.jpg

The line of Byzantine infantry with a few Trebizond archer and Varangian guards to support can slowly advance while the Byzantine cavalry skirmishes. Once the melee is joined units of Kataphraktoi and Pronoiai Allagion/Byzantine lancers can be sent to flank. The Varangian guards can be used to support weak spots or attack particularly dangerous units, as well as providing a high morale, reliable reserve force. The Byzantines need to balance their speed and power to be truly effective. In this diagram the archers are deployed ahead of the infantry line, this is because Byzantine infantry have comparatively fragile morale and casualties combined with the morale penalty for being shot at will make them easier to rout before they even get into melee combat. For this reason it is better to let your archers take the arrows in their place.

4. Moving to intermediate.
If you have mastered everything I have covered in this guide then you are ready to move on to intermediate. Congratulations

You should start by looking at this
table of contents (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=3823) as it contains a lot of advanced information. You should also consider reading the forums on the two sites mentioned at the start of this guide, as there are many helpful articles and interesting ideas on them. You need to continue practising to get better but you are over the hardest part now so things are smoother from this point on.

For information and tips for any of the units in Shogun, medieval and Viking Invasion look at the Complete Total War Unit Guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453)

5. Appendix
Here's some useful information that doesn't fit anywhere else.

5.1 Hotkeys
Battlemap
P = pause
G = Group
Backspace - Halt (cancel the given order)
R - Rally (use this to avoid hitting the wrong button on the interface - rout is right next to it)
C - Close formation
L - Loose formation
W - Wedge formation
S - Skirmish mode (apply for skirmish troop)
F - Hold Formation
E - Engage at will
H - Hold position.
A - Fire at will (apply for skirmish troop)
Control+W = withdraw
Control+R = rout
SHIFT + DOUBLE CLICK = waypoint with the unit running.
Alt+hold right mouse button = Change troop facing
Multiple units selected and Alt+RMB = Change facing for all units while maintaining formation.
Multiple units selected and ALT+left click = Move all units while keeping formation, spacing etc
- and + on numpad to change camera angle
Mouse wheel to zoom (camera elevation).
Press Escape while dragging out a formation will cancel the action.

Campaign map
V = display sea zone status
C = hide castles
Shift = display province loyalty
Space = skip tour
Mousewheel = zoom
1 and 3 keys on the numpad to zoom if you don't have mouse wheel
M = merge armies/merge units
Escape = main menu
Enter = end turn
Ctrl + A works on the camp map to select all units in the unit review panel

5.2 Multiplayer
I don't play multiplayer so you can thank Cheetah for this section.
Eleven do's and eleven not to do's of MP

DO'S
· Always respect the rules the host set forth. If you don't agree with these rules don't join the game.
· Always ask if you don't know something, and always help if someone ask something from you.
· Always communicate with your allies.
· Always help your allies.
· Always tell your allies when you are going to attack.
· Always count the number of units in the opposing army.
· Always study carefully the composition of the opposing armies. You can learn a lot this way.
· Always group your units according their tasks: archers, melee infantry, reserve cavalry, etc.
· Always pick your army according the climate. Don't bring heavily armoured troops into a desert battle, etc.
· Always buy valour to your fighting troops to avoid the my soldiers did not fight syndrome. Morale is the most important part of the battle; valour 0 troops run too easily.
· Always pick a good general, usually an elite troop with high base morale (for example: chivalric knights, Ghulam cavalry)

NOT TO DO'S
· Never flame your allies or your opponents. Even if he/she picked a wrong army, made a wrong move, was routed off quickly, etc.
· Never leave alone your allies. An ally worth more than any hill or nice terrain feature.
· Never stay put. Don't be afraid to move.
· Never rush in the first 5 seconds of the game. Always take your time to survey the deployment of the opposing armies and that of your allies.
· Never put your money in a few überunits (for example, v3 or v4 chivalric knights). Try to spread your investment evenly amongst your melee units.
· Never buy an army composed of only one unit type (i.e. only infantry, only cavalry, etc.). Under most of the circumstances a mixed army of ranged units, melee infantry and cavalry out performs any of the one-unit type armies.
· Never buy siege engines like Mangonels, ballista, etc.
· Never lead the attack with your general.
· Never attack one by one, attack in groups.
· Never chase a cavalry with your spear units.
· Never focus your attention on one unit. Try to rotate your attention between the different parts of your army as frequently as you can. Keep an eye on the unit icons. There should be no idle units.

5.3 Modding the missile units.
DISCLAIMER: You mod your game at your own risk - if something goes wrong don't blame me. I have given these instructions according to what I did with my own game so they should be accurate, however this does not give you the right to blame if you mess up. If something does go wrong you should be able to use your back up file (which I tell you to create before you do anything) to repair everything, if that doesn't work come to the org and ask one of the many modders for help. END DISCLAIMER.

Since my old link to a topic on this broke I've written this appendix to replace it. This section is intended to be a simple guide to modding the missile unit to make them more accurate, deadly and generally more useful. It only covers altering the projectilestats file so you won't find out how to add new units or anything complex like that, try the org's Dungeon if you want to do that.

Firstly you will need to download the Gnome editor from the org, you can find it here. (http://www.totalwar.org/Downloads/Tools.shtml) The file is called Gnome editor V2.0 by Lord Gnome. Secondly you will need either the Viking Invasion add-on or the 1.1 MTW patch - if you don't have one of these you will not be able to mod the projectilestats file. Before you start you should create a backup of the unaltered projectilestats file in case you mess up or wish to revert back to the original. To do this go to your MTW main directory and look for a text file labelled PROJECTILESTATS, it looks just like this example. Right click on it, select copy and then right click on your desktop (or in another file away from MTW and the editor) and select paste. Voila, one backup

Now you are ready to begin so install the gnome editor and start it up. Click on Load file on the bottom bar. Then choose PROJECTILESTATS from the list and click OK. The projectilestats file will now open and you will see a long list of each type of projectile (e.g. shortbow, longbow) along with its various statistics. I will now walk you through altering the longbow to be more accurate.

- Locate longbow on the far left hand list (it's number 2), now look across it's statistics until you find the column headed 'accuracy' (column 6) and click on the box. This will highlight the boxes containing the words longbow and accuracy so you can check that you have the right statistic selected. As you can see longbows have a default accuracy of 0.6, it is very important that you do not alter these numbers too drastically as you can make missile units so deadly they make every other unit obsolete and ruin game balance so badly you won't want to play. Never take an accuracy stat up to whole numbers, even 0.90 is far too much for serious gameplay.

- Now that you have the longbows accuracy selected all you need to do is edit the numbers in the same way you would edit text. For this example hit backspace once to delete the 6, you should leave the number at 0. for now. We want longbows to be slightly more accurate so type 78 in to replace the 6, the final result should look like this 0.78 and that's it, you are done Simple wasn't it?

- Now to save your work, click on save file as on the bottom tool bar and type in a name in the save as box. Make sure to call it something different to the default files and your back ups or you will overwrite them and put yourself in a bad position. I recommend calling the file beginner mod so you know what it is, I shall refer to this file as beginner mod from now on for ease of reference.

- Installing your mod is just as easy. First copy beginner mod to your desktop using the same method you used to create the back up at the start of this guide. Now right click on your copy and choose rename, you should call it PROJECTILESTATS - exactly the same as this, capitals and all or else it will not work. After renaming the file right click on it and select cut, now open up your MTW main directory and select paste when you are in the same folder as the original PROJECTILESTATS file. Right click in the folder and select paste, if you have named your mod correctly and you are putting it in the correct location you should be asked if you want to overwrite a file with this name that is already in that location. Choose yes. Now all you have to do is test your mod, so load up the game and try out your unit. If you feel the accuracy still needs tweaking you can come back to the editor, open up your original beginners mod file (this is why you created a copy before installing the mod) and edit away. Editing other missile units is exactly the same as editing the longbows so you can play with their accuracy too, don't touch any of the other statistics apart from accuracy as they are too advanced to fiddle with in this guide. If you want to alter range etc take a look at the projectilestats topic in the orgs dungeon here (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=26;t=10132)

frogbeastegg's recommended accuracy stats
The following list is the accuracy stats I use in my frogmod, they are better than the defaults but at the same time they do not make the missile units over powered. All of the missile units retain their original uses and none of them become obsolete when you get access to newer units so gunpowder has a use but it does not replace crossbow types or normal bow types. I DID NOT WRITE THE GUIDE BASED AROUND A MODDED GAME so don't worry about any of the advice being wrong.

Longbow 0.73 (Used only by Longbowmen)
Shortbow 0.62 (Used by most normal archers)
MountedLongbow 0.58 (Used by all mounted archers)
Arquebus 0.30
Handgun 0.10
Ninjastar 0.50 (Not used in the game so I left it)
Javelin 0.15
Grenade 0.03
Crossbow 0.68 (Used by infantry x-bows and mounted x-bows)
Arbalest 0.75

I haven't modded any of the siege engines or castle defences as they function nicely in the defaults.

frogbeastegg's other missile related mods
I altered some of the other missile unit stats as well here's a list. You edit them in the same way you edited the accuracy stats so if you want to make your game match mine....

Javelin = Range to 2500 (This enables the AI to use javelins effectively while keeping their short range.)
Crossbow = Reload to 10 (This gives them a slight advantage over arbalesters giving them a purpose)

5.4 Unit size chart
This chart shows how many men there are in each type of unit on each of the unit size settings in MTW.

On small size: Bodyguards 20 cavalry 20 infantry 30 spears 50
On default size: Bodyguards 20 cavalry 40 infantry 60 spears 100
On medium size: Bodyguards 20 cavalry 53 infantry 80 spears 133
On large unit size: Bodyguards 33 cavalry 66 infantry 100 spears 166
On huge unit size: Bodyguards 40 cavalry 80 infantry 120 spears 200

5.5 Cheat codes and command lines
These are included for reference; sometimes cheating is the best way to test out ideas if you are short of time. It can also be fun, not all cheats make your game easier.

Cheat codes must be entered exactly as they appear here - including the full stop before and after the code. You must enter them on the campaign map screen.

Cheat codes
.worksundays. = fast build mode. Must have all your build queues empty for this to work.
.badgerbunny. = all buildings and units are available. You can still only build the units relevant to your faction, even though you appear to have all types available.
.deadringer. = gives 1 million florins
.conan. = take control of the rebels
.matteosartori. = reveal the whole map
.viagra. = puts iron in all your provinces
.mefoundsomeau. = puts gold in all your provinces
.mefoundsomeag. = puts silver in all your provinces
.mefoundsomecu. = puts copper in all your provinces
.kidsmode. = makes the AI very easy
.nuttermode. = makes the AI aggressive
.unfreeze. = produces an heir for your faction. The heir will be born as you hit 'end turn'.

command lines for MTW
These are not exactly cheats; instead you add them to your MTW or VI shortcut. Right click on your shortcut, and then choose properties. In the target box you should see something like:
F:\Program Files\Total War\Medieval - Total War\Medieval_TW.exe
if you have plain MTW or
F:\Program Files\Total War\Medieval - Total War\Medieval_TW.exe -strictserver
if you have both MTW and VI. To add a shortcut you must leave one space after the mark, then enter the command line. To use multiple command lines just leave a space between each one and remember to include the - at the start of each successive line. Choose to save your changes and exit the properties box. Then start the game with the shortcut.

-ian - debug mode, runs in a smaller screen, you can move the camera about more in the battle maps to get close up views, you can disable the AI or switch factions using the number keys. The A key allows you to put the game on auto run.

-loyalty:X - sets the auto tax to maintain X loyalty where X is the number you want. Always use more than 100 at the very minimum unless you want a lot of rebellions. I recommend 120 for a reliable income and reasonably reliable loyalty or 180 to maintain very high loyalty and rarely see a rebellion.

-strictserver - a multiplayer related command that is on by default for all VI installations. Just leave it alone.

-green_generals - for VI only. When a general dies his replacement won't be identical to him in stats, vices and virtues. Instead the new man will be slightly weaker.

6. Credits.
In alphabetical order:
adi for some suggestions.
ah_dut for some suggesions.
Apache for some suggestions.
Celtlan for some suggestions.
Cheetah for loan of his armies and suggestions, also for the multiplayer section.
Gregoshi for pinning the entrance hall version of this guide.
Inigo Montoya for pointing out the need for a guide like this, and some suggestions. Inigo also edited pictures 2, 3, 7, and 8.
jaggy for some suggestions.
jaren for some suggestions.
Kristaps for some suggestions.
Louis de la Ferte Ste Colombe for some suggestions.
Ludens for some suggestions.
magnatz for pointing out open office.
Monk for some suggestions.
motorhead for some suggestions.
Old Bald Guy for some suggestions.
o_loompah for some suggestions.
Pdifolco for some suggestions.
pdoan8 for supplying the list of hotkeys.
Quokka for some suggestions.
RabTheRab for posting the unit dismount guide and saving me hours of research.
Razor1952 for some suggestions.
Simon Appleton for pointing out an error and some suggestions.
Swordsmasterfor some suggestions.
TosaInu for increasing the size of this topic so I could add in a lot more information. He also provided the host for the pictures (along with the org), and encoded the HTML version of this guide.
Total War.org for hosting this whole thing.
Tricky Lady for converting this guide to PDF.
WarHawk1953 for some suggestions.
Yoko Kono for some suggestions.

frogbeastegg
07-23-2003, 22:43
Can someone sticky this or something? It answers every question I have ever seen asked by new players, along with some that aren't asked because people don't know that the option even exists. It should help a lot of newbies, especially those who have been requesting a guide like this.

I can update it as necessary to add new information, correct errors (I hope there are none ), add new information as requested.

Over twelve hours of solid typing and over 69,000 characters, is that some kind of record? I'm going to sleep now, so tired....http://burns.thefinaldimension.org/contrib/edoom/sleeping.gifhttp://www.computerpannen.com/cwm/contrib/chapel/frogs/sleep34.gif

Dukezer0
07-23-2003, 22:43
Bloody hell http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif

How big. Suffice to say its a great post IMO. Though it took me about 30 mins to read, rome wasn't built in a day, so to speak. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

Excellent advice for a beginer, you should post it in the EH also.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

econ21
07-24-2003, 00:06
Really nice post, frostbeastegg.

One minor point - arbalesters still appear on high in the SP game, unfortunately (it's ahistorical and makes crossbows redundant in the game).

Also, your advice for Muslims seems geared more for the Turks (only ones who can get JHI) and not so relevant to the Almohads. The Almohads are rather short of cavalry (only Saharan and bodyguards for a long time) and on early should presumably rely on their magnificent AUM instead.

I have one point of disagreement on choice of faction - I think for many VI factions, the VI campaign is rather tougher than the main campaign so I would not recommend it for a newbie. I'm not quite sure why - maybe because you can't rely on trade and the economy to triumph; or maybe those nasty Vikings themselves.

Crash
07-24-2003, 00:15
Oh my God, Froggy, what have you wrought?

It's great, thank you for all your hard work.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wacko.gif

Razor1952
07-24-2003, 02:32
Congrats Froggy a great post,

The only thing I would suggest added is the the effect of morale, valour and discipline, particularly when choosing a general (to give added valour) and also when choosing a province which has a bonus for a certain type of troop and building bonuses for these.

Looking at your link to the units stats from the Clan Berserk will quickly show how important these factors are in battle.

I wish your guide had been around earlier when I started

Inigo Montoya
07-24-2003, 05:17
Oh...my...God. Great post And to think that I asked some of the original stupid questions that prompted this. I hope TPTB will sticky this somewhere - like maybe here and in the EH, so future TW idiots will have a good basic resource to the game that's easy to find and understand.

Well done, FBE. Good luck finishing Thief.

IM

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 08:47
Corrected and expanded. I can't believe I missed the whole elite/valour etc thing; I must have been really tired.

Thanks for the feedback, if there is anything else I got wrong or didn't include just mention it here.

I'll go and create a copy in the entrance hall now.

The whole thing now weighs in at 74194 characters I've nearly hit the post limit http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif

tootee
07-24-2003, 10:07
Excellent.

Ser Clegane
07-24-2003, 11:24
Great job frog

Thanks for the fantastic effort http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

TosaInu
07-24-2003, 11:41
Konnichiwa frogbeastegg san,

I haven't time to read it at the moment, but it looks very good and I'll read it. Perhaps it should be made a static html page too, pictures maybe?

Thanks for the great work.

The postlimit can be increased.

Edit: increased to 100 kb max.

Dîn-Heru
07-24-2003, 12:07
DAMN http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/shock.gif

Exellent job Miss frogbeastegg

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 12:07
Thanks TosaInu (and others) http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Adding pictures would really improve the strategy section, I could slap in a couple of pictures of formations instead of those crappy text diagrams. Unfortunately I've no idea how to do this and I have nowhere to host the pictures. If you can make it possible I'll leap at the chance. If you want to make it a static part of the org (wow, I'm honoured ) I've no objections. You would need to teach me how to alter it though; I've never worked on the net outside of posting on forums. (Just saw you increased the topic size, thanks http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif )

As long as there is a demand and enough space I will keep expanding the guide. I have put a duplicate in the entrance hall as suggested, if you don't like it Mods, feel free to take it down (not that you need my permission of course). Having this topic repeated does increase the chance of newbies finding it though.

Inigo Montoya I found your offer of help after I'd finished the whole thing, thanks anyway http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif. If you think I've missed something just ask. On your idea of a in-depth guide to the battle field:
:frog clutches her head and screams:
Oh god That would take forever I couldn't do that myself, there are too many strategies I don't use, units I don't like, ideas I've never thought of

However if I got the ball rolling with a basic guide covering my own tactics etc and other people chipped in with their own ideas it might work. If it was illustrated and static like TosaInu suggests for this guide then it would be handy.

:frog mutters to herself "I must be crazy, so much work, so much time and all for free" froggy starts to phone the local mental asylum:

You know this was supposed to be my summer holiday

TosaInu
07-24-2003, 12:58
Pictures will be hosted by this server. There's surely someone to assist with making the HTML pages (I can do that too when the text and images are supplied).

Images can be made by pressing the F2 key (works in battles and campaign). The pictures are stored in MTW\TGAs and named like 00000000.tga. TGA files are huge, you may crop and/or resize them a bit and at least convert them to gif.

There are quite some graphic programs that can do this and it's fairly simple. This Guideline provides some ideas for making pictures http://www.totalwar.org/Downloads/Guideline.shtml

Image editor (http://www.3ddownloads.com/strategy-gaming/totalwar/Tools/Psp412.zip)

Here's the website of http://www.jasc.com/ . But a search on http://www.tucows.com should result in some good free image editors too.

A great idea to have other people add tactic bits too.

P.S. only undertake such things when you enjoy doing it please.

Gregoshi
07-24-2003, 15:33
My jaw just hit the floor. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif Fantastic work frogbeastegg http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif Pinned it shall be

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 16:06
Ok I've taken 4 screenshots, cropped them, shrunk them to 85% of the original size and converted them into JPEGS between 52.8KB and 55.8KB. Now what? Shall I email them to you in a zip file? I'll need to rewrite the relevant tactics sections to get rid of the poor art and explain the pictures, I'll do this when the pictures are hosted and ready to go up.

BTW: The entrance hall version of this topic is now sticky Drinks all round http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Don't worry, I enjoyed doing this guide. At the very least it gives me something to do while I wait for my neighbor to finish his very noisy DIY. Anyway I've used plenty of fan written guides myself over the past few years so I guess it's time I put something back. I always enjoy studing the theory etc of Total War so most of this is just typing up facts I've known for a while.

Divine Wind
07-24-2003, 16:17
Bravo Froggy. Very good read for the new chaps http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

TosaInu
07-24-2003, 16:18
Yes, you can e-mail them to me in a zip: tosainu@totalwar.org
I'll post the images and send you the URLs so you can add them to this Guide.

Cheetah
07-24-2003, 16:33
Very nice work froggy http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Cheetah
07-24-2003, 17:13
Very nice work http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif Hey froggy, what is a beast artillery? http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif (under the siege section)

A few remarks about army types. IMHO there are no attacking or defending armies just suboptimal armies and emergency situations http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif For me an optimal army would consist 3-4 ranged units, 6-7 meele infantry (FMAA, milserg) and the rest cavalry, preferably with 2 cav archers. As you see I leave my spearmen at home, unless I expect a cav (camel) heavy opponent such as the GH, turks or egyptians. Javelin infantry can do a good work, especially in early era and usually they are quite cheap. As far as the reinforcements concerned, IMHO cav units are the best, I prefer to have at least 2 cav archers in reserve.

About fighting styles: catholic armies are not very manouverable and suffer in desert. Hm, it depends on your army choice http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif All of the catholic factions can build cav archers or mounted x-bows so it is really up to you whether you build an inf heavy army or more mobile cav heavy armies. Also there are a number of catholic units that can do pretty well in desert, such as feudserg, milserg, archers, cav archers, not to mention some specail unit types such as the hobilars or turcopoles. Of course, all without armour upgrades. So, basically you have to have a troop producing province without armoury if you plan to embark on a desert campaign.

Inigo Montoya
07-24-2003, 17:57
FBE - I can help you with pictures, if you would like me to. I have lots of graphic editing software (my job) - so I can take screenshots, add labels and pointers (for example), and save them in a size and format suitable for framing - or posting, as the case may be.

I'm glad you're getting a lot of encouragement on this. You deserve all the kudos. Please keep up the effort, and let me know anything I can do to help. e-mail is innigo_montoya@yahoo.com.

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 18:17
TosaInu, you should have mail.

Inigo, thanks for the offer. I may expand the tactics section with some more tactics and screenshots. I might do some illustrating how to do flanks attacks etc which would benefit from labeled pictures. A labeled diagram of a unit that shows exactly what I'm talking about when I say flanks, rear, ranks etc may make it in as well. When the first batch of pictures are added I'll start taking some new ones and get back to you. Are there any particular tactics you think should be illustrated? After all this was (kind of) your idea http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

I never thought for one second that my guide would attract all this interest and praise. What has really made it worthwhile was stumbling across someone in another topic who said they had read the guide and had all their questions answered. It gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

DemonArchangel
07-24-2003, 19:14
NICE Good job frog beast egg

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 19:45
Edited to include pictures and to correct a few errors. I've added a section on javelins, Cheetah's army suggestions and clarified a few points in the Catholic section where I wasn't clear enough. The guide now has pictures (if you didn't notice you must have scrolled past pretty quickly), savour the Technicolor special effects Are they clear enough? Can you clearly tell what soldier belongs to what family (ie can you tell which are spears, swords bows etc), if not say so and I'll get them labelled. I’ve also added a credits section.

A beast artillery fires angry animals (well you'd be angry if you got shot out of a catapult ) into the enemy camp to cause mayhem. They are a prototype for the flaming pigs and stompy elephants in Rome; Total War.

Can anyone tell me why the guide has now gone fat? It's so wide it doesn't all fit on my screen. It's not like that in the post or edit interface

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 19:48
Edited to include pictures and to correct a few errors. I've added a section on javelins, Cheetah's army suggestions and clarified a few points in the Catholic section where I wasn't clear enough. The guide now has pictures (if you didn't notice you must have scrolled past pretty quickly), savour the Technicolor special effects Are they clear enough? Can you clearly tell what soldier belongs to what family (ie can you tell which are spears, swords bows etc), if not say so and I'll get them labelled. I’ve also added a credits section.

Can anyone tell me why the guide has now gone fat? It's so wide it doesn't all fit on my screen. It's not like that in the post or edit interface The pictures all fit on the screen in one piece with room to spare.

Inigo Montoya
07-24-2003, 20:59
FBE - It's gone wider in my view screen as well. I imagine that it's resized to fit the absolute pixel width of the images you inserted.

This was in no way my idea... I merely suggested that you put your three great answers to me all in the same place. I am in awe of the enormous amount of work you have done (and the incredibly short time in which you've done it). As this topic grows and you get more ideas of the pictures, etc. that you'd like to add to it, I imagine it's going to get a little cumbersome to carry it on in the present form. I can give you some help with basic HTML if you would like. Nothing extravagant like Clan Berserke, but a simple frame-based setup that might be a little easier for you to manage.

Cheetah
07-24-2003, 21:07
Froggy, thank you incorporating my suggestions http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif Do you play MP?

IMHO the pictures need to be labeled. Although I can guess what is what (especially after reading your text http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif) but it would be great help.

frogbeastegg
07-24-2003, 21:22
Nope, never done multiplayer in my life The closest I've got is dropping an army of units on a map in Age of Empires 2 and letting the AI take a swing at some units picked by my boyfriend. The AI acts like a complete idiot and my boyfriend is an elephant addict so it doesn't work very well as you might imagine http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/joker.gif

All being well the pictures will be more professionally edited and labelled by an expert so that should sort things out. If not I'll try to botch something together.

I was hoping someone like you would pop up with some mobile army strategies. As you have probably guessed this isn't my style of play so I'm not all that qualified to give advice for it. You've helped me fill a gap or two. Maybe some other players will offer advice I can add.

Does anyone think the guide needs a short multiplayer section? How many complete newbies play multiplayer anyway? If someone provides some basic (and I mean basic, no long treatises on the evils of choosing too many units or anything like that) advice on choosing armies etc I can incorporate it (with credit of course ) near the end.

MonkeyMan
07-24-2003, 22:42
Good work frogbeastegg http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Cheetah
07-25-2003, 17:10
I asked whether you play MP or not because my army is a standard MP army http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif which explains both the lack of spearmen and the all-in-one nature of the army http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Pdifolco
07-25-2003, 17:11
I think you could a point about Provine management : it's sometimes more useful to put a high Dread Governor in charge than a high Acumen one, on those pesky rebellious provinces such as Scotland, Livonia, etc.., even for a few turns when the province has low loyalty before building some happiness-boosting buildings.
You may lose a few cash in the process (very few, 'cause the provinces are usually poor AND you have to put a very low tax rate), but the boost to Loyalty given by Dread can make the difference between a 25% Rebellion chance and a 5% one http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

frogbeastegg
07-25-2003, 20:23
Just a couple of additions, I've added Pdifolco's suggestions on dread,that was supposed to be in there already, it's on the long list of this I've forgotten and will add over time. Look for it in the new section about province loyalty. Thanks for pointing out my ommission http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

I've also added a strategy by Innigo Montoya, it's in the Pope section.

Now if you'll excuse me, I've got an unpopular character to kill (again) in my story thread

Oh, and if anyone's interested this guide is now 82010 characters long out of a possible 102400 That's an increase of about 15,000 characters from the first version

Kristaps
07-25-2003, 22:14
Maybe we could add a subsection on the important keyboard shortcuts. The official guide-book does not list them all. For example, SHIFT + DOUBLE CLICK resulting in waypoint running was something new for me. I was always trying in vain to achieve the same by doing SHIFT + CLICK AND THEN CTRL R for "run"...

Yoko Kono
07-26-2003, 11:27
you could also add in that 'G' groups units and pressing ALT and LEFT CLICK you can move multiple units while retaining their formation and facing and also ALT and RIGHT CLICKING is good way to have a grouped formation change facing together, extremely useful when the ai trys rediculously obvious flanking manouveres

Louis de la Ferte Ste Colombe
07-26-2003, 13:19
About Discipline; units with discipline are also less affected by death/ capture of general.

Great work.

Louis the Simurgh,

Old Bald Guy
07-26-2003, 13:28
Fabulous work, fb. Very nicely done. Wish I'd had that back in late '02 when I started this obsession.

One thing I'm thinking of that needs to be included in any new player guide...patience.[B] Take your time; you've got a lot more than you need. You can literaly wait a hundred years before starting a war and still finish off the other factions before the end comes. When I started playing, I won time after time without ever getting much into the High period. In fact, it was a long time before I ever saw a serpentine gun and then only when attacked by the GH who brought one with 'em. (Do NOT charge into these things&#33http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

In battle, I've never yet ran out of time when attacking. (If you've ever tried to hold out on defense until the time elapses, you'll know what I mean.) One of my own personal favorites is to hold off the first wave, and then wait for his reinforcements to cross all the way before slaughtering a billion peasants. When attacking, you can take all the time you need to move your units into the best position. Just be patient.

Second, this game has huge replay value. I started playing Early. After a couple dozen campaigns, I started playing High period. Then, GAs. Now, I'm playing WesW's MedMod, which is like playing a whole new game...and much harder, I must add. New guys, don't give up the game because you think you've beaten it. Try different periods, and see how little you're unbeatable strategies become white flags across the bottom of the screen.

Thanks, again, froggie, for the great tips. I esp appreciate the tips on javelin units, for which I've never had any use. I'll give them a shot, now.

Best wishes,

OBG

Shahed
07-26-2003, 14:09
Superb

frogbeastegg
07-26-2003, 16:17
Edited and updated. I've added in all the latest suggestions and corrections.

There is a new appendix on hotkeys. Will readers please post all the hotkeys they use, along with what they do as I don't use them much myself.

I've put in a section on charging in the battlemap section. There is also a note of the move-attack tactic for cavalry. Both of these sections were supposed to be in the original but I forgot. There are loads more sections like this, I remember them when I'm not at the computor but when I sit down to type them up I forget them ;rolleyes: I'm now writing them down as I remember.

The guide is now over 85,000 characters I think I might run out of space again http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif The page noticably takes time to load, even on my broadband I apologise to those of you with dial up connections, the long wait must be hell

Thank you all for your kind words and encouragement http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Publishers may wish to note that I am available to write a Total War guide for print. Give me an early copy of Rome and I'll do one for that too (Well I can advertise, can't I? http://burns.thefinaldimension.org/contrib/sally/lol.gif As if anyone would hire me http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif )

You know this whole guide thing has done wonders for my post count You spammers should try it some time, maybe a guide to picking the avatar and title thats right for you on hitting the big 500 Or perhaps a guide to the different varieties of spam, and there's a definite need for 'The spammers guide to being a spammer'. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/joker.gif

Monk
07-26-2003, 20:50
very very nice. great job froggy http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

pdoan8
07-27-2003, 00:01
Quote[/b] (frogbeastegg @ July 26 2003,10:17)]There is a new appendix on hotkeys. Will readers please post all the hotkeys they use, along with what they do as I don't use them much myself.


I'm just about to request for that part.



Quote[/b] (frogbeastegg @ July 26 2003,10:17)]Publishers may wish to note that I am available to write a Total War guide for print. Give me an early copy of Rome and I'll do one for that too (Well I can advertise, can't I? http://burns.thefinaldimension.org/contrib/sally/lol.gif As if anyone would hire me http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif )

I'm sure you will do a very good job on that.

Great work.

There is a section about hot keys in the MTW manual from page 50 to page 55. I don't use all of them but many are useful. Keys I use most are:

Backspace - Halt (cancel the given order)
R - Rally (I use this to avoid hitting the wrong button which is the Rout, right next to it)
C - Close formation
L - Loose formation
W - Wedge formation
S - Skirmish mode (apply for skimish troop)
F - Hold Formation
E - Engage at will
H - Hold position.
A - Fire at will (apply for skirmish troop)

Press Escape while dragging out a formation will cancel the action.

On campaign map:
1 and 3 keys on the numpad to zoom if you don't have mouse wheel.

Ctrl + A will also work on the camp map to select all units in the unit review panel.

Mouse wheel to scroll up and down list (provinces income list, general list, heir list, agent list). If you have VI, you can sort the list by left click on any of the column title.

Battle map:
- and + on numpad to change camera angle.

Mouse wheel to zoom (camara elevation).

o_loompah_the_delayer
07-27-2003, 15:05
very nice

regarding the Pope, if the italians/ sicilians get too big for their boots - usually in the early game, you could also try to leave just enough units to prevent rebellion (say with a dreadful governor) but still weak enough to tempt the italians/ sicilians to invade. Pope reeappears and excoms them leaving you able to crusade against the weakened italians without penalty.

Intrepid Sidekick
07-29-2003, 11:39
Bravo FBE,

I have to say I am impressed. Well done. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif

For my sins I have been charged with the task of writing the RTW manual. I've written a few in the past for other games.

The basic RTW manual is already at 61,000+ characters and 37 ms pages (including placeholder illustrations)


Intrepid Sidekick
- CA Staff -

frogbeastegg
07-29-2003, 17:57
Updated with some more hotkeys and several new sections (faction re-emergences, amphibious invasions, more on the Pope and some other bits and pieces). I think the guide is nearly complete; most of the other things I thought I might add are either in the manual, already covered elsewhere or are too advanced for a beginner’s guide.

Inigo Montoya has been editing my screenshots, the first one is done and I've sent it to TosaInu so expect to see the new versions appearing over the next few days. The new versions are much better, they are labelled and there is an overhead diagram, which makes the layout much clearer. Thanks for all the hard work Inigo http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif, I'll update your credit when the pictures are posted.

VOTE NOW Does anyone want a battlefield guide? I'm thinking of possibly writing an in-depth battlefield guide complete with illustrations and sections on all the units, as well as including more formations and tactics. If the interest is there I'm more likely to do it, if it's unnecessary I won't bother.

Intrepid sidekick: Thanks (wow, I impressed a professional ). Did you forget to sugar the drinks on your first day? Now we know what CA mean when they say the naughty cupboard

EDIT: Oh yes, I forgot to say thanks to whichever anonymous personage stickied this version. Thank you http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif. You know I was looking all over for the main hall version, I thought it had been deleted Thank heavens I noticed it stuck at the top on my way out

Yoko Kono
07-29-2003, 18:36
Quote[/b] (frogbeastegg @ July 29 2003,11:57)]VOTE NOW Does anyone want a battlefield guide? I'm thinking of possibly writing an in-depth battlefield guide complete with illustrations and sections on all the units, as well as including more formations and tactics. If the interest is there I'm more likely to do it, if it's unnecessary I won't bother.
a guide explaing the basic principles of combat and the strenghths and effictiveness of various units particulary skirmishing units and cavalry would be most beneficial to newer players

frogbeastegg
07-29-2003, 20:38
Thanks Yoko. I was thinking more along the lines of 'Frog Tzu's Art of Total War', a guide that covers everything I know about the battlemap, along with some strategies from other players. The guide would be aimed more at intermediate players as I think my guide, along with the manual and tutorials, covers everything a newbie needs to know.

Some examples of what I'd include are:
* A detailed analyis of all the units e.g. why are chivalric sergeants better than feudal sergeants? Are they better at everything or do feudals still have a use after 1205?
*A look at more specific details like which part of the hill is best for your archers? Height counts, but only the right kind of height will turn your archers into Robin Hoods.
*A small section on how the AI works (maybe, if I can find enough bits and pieces to go beyond what I posted in my beginners guide).

If anyone thinks I still need to add more to my beginners guide say so, I may expand it some more. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Cheetah
07-31-2003, 18:24
Hi Froggy, here is a list of MP tips.

Eleven do’s and eleven not to do’s of MP

DO’S
· Always respect the rules the host set forth. If you dont agree with these rules don’t join the game.
· Always ask if you don’t know something, and always help if someone ask something from you.
· Always communicate with your allies.
· Always help your allies.
· Alway tell your allies when you are going to attack.
· Always count the number of units in the opposing army.
· Always study carefuly the composition of the opposing armies. You can learn a lot this way.
· Always group your units according their tasks: archers, meele infantry, reserve cavalry, etc.
· Always pick your army according the climate. Dont bring heavily armoured troops into a desert battle, etc.
· Always buy valor to your fighting troops to avoid the „my soldiers did not fight” sindrome. Morale is the most important part of the battle, valor 0 troops run too easily.
· Always pick a good general, usually an elite troop with high base morale (for example: chiv.knight, ghulam cavalry)

NOT TO DO’S
· Never flame your allies or your opponents. Even if he/she picked a wrong army, made a wrong move, was routed off quickly, etc.
· Never leave alone your allies. An ally worth more than any hill or nice terrain feature.
· Never stay put. Don’t be afraid to move.
· Never rush in the first 5 seconds of the game. Always take your time to survey the deployment of the opposing armies and that of your allies.
· Never put your money in a few “überunits” (for example, v3 or v4 chiv.knights). Try to spread your investment evenly amongst your meele units.
· Never buy an army composed of only one unit type (i.e. only infantry, only cavalry, etc.). Under most of the circumstances a mixed army of ranged units, meele infantry and cavalry outperformes any of the one unit type armies.
· Never buy siege engines like mangonels, ballista, etc.
· Never lead the attack with your general.
· Never attack one by one, attack in groups.
· Never chase a cavalry with your spear units.
· Never focus your attention on one unit. Try to rotate your attention between the different parts of your army as frequently as you can. Keep an eye on the unit icons. There should be no idle units.


Feel free to add your suggestions http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

frogbeastegg
07-31-2003, 19:06
Edited to include Cheetahs multiplayer section. Thanks Cheetah http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

DemonArchangel
08-01-2003, 02:04
Well, frogbeastegg, what are your plans for further guides for MTW newbies?

frogbeastegg
08-01-2003, 10:20
Well Demon this guides done, it's awaiting its new pictures but that’s it for the text unless any more suggestions appear. I do have several ideas for more guides:

1)'Frog Tzu's Art of Total War. An in-depth battlefield guide aimed at a more advanced player, around intermediate level. I proposed this a couple of posts back asking if anyone was interested, to date I have had one (1) reply That suggests this guide is a bit unnecessary.

2)Froggy's guide to Shogun: Total War. This one would have to wait for at least a month because I've only just got Shogun working again after more than a year of absence. As you might imagine my skill have atrophied to the point where the AI actually causes a bit of trouble for me (I had a battle last night where the AI actually nearly won On normal I had 47 archers ans 2 naginata cavalry left from an army of 9 units. It's so different to the good old days where I won with minimal losses in all situations http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/mecry.gif ). I don't think this one is really needed because so few newbies play Shogun; also the .com forums have an excellent work in progress by King Haggard so I'd be repeating his work.

3)Frogbeasteggs guide to the Viking Invasion. Specific tips etc for the Viking campaign. This would be good for all those newbies who want to start with the Vikings, as well as those who think (like me) that the main medieval game is a bit dull and bloated really (heresy )

4)Froggy's guide to MTW + VI units. An in-depth guide to ALL the units on the battle map in both medieval and Vikings. It would include how to use them, which unit is suited for what, which unit to choose if you have many similar ones available etc. It's basically a cut down Frog Tzu.

I won't do any of these if there is no interest; there is too much work involved to do a guide if no one wants it. This beginners guide has taken me about 20 hours to write, along with another 10 or so hours of planning, contacting TosaInu and Inigo Montoya etc. I don't know how much time TosaInu and Inigo have spent on it, editing pictures, expanding the size limit etc. If the interest is proven to be there I will write, otherwise I'll fade back into normal patronship.

Inigo Montoya
08-01-2003, 10:42
FBE -

Just letting you know I'm still here.... and I would be interested in a more detailed battlefield guide - especially since I'm currently getting my butt kicked by the Egyptians. I do OK in small battles, but now my game has pretty much come down to me (English) and them, with everyone else just an afterthought. So all of our battles are something like 4000 v 4000 or more men, and I can't keep track of what the hell is going on. I can hold my own for a while, but I've been losing 1000+ men and killing about the same number without the battle really being determined. I seem to do much better as the attacker rather than the defender - of course, I reckon there's not really a rule that says you can't go on the attack when your defending.

On another note - whatever you decide to do, I can help you out with the pics. I haven't seen the new one up on the guide yet, so I'm still holding the others until we see if that format will work.

IM

Celtlan
08-01-2003, 14:09
First of all.
WELL DONE
Excelent work. I am now fully equiped to deal with MTW which after STW was a big step up. All my problems seem to be answered and I thank you.

secondly
events need the compass included and a short write up that you cant use it right away to build the additional ships. ( or am I wrong? still only on first campaign English early and its 1173 compass was 3 years ago).
Oh and how do you retrain units i know about it but cant seem to work out how exactly to do it so that might be useful to new people too.

thirdly
A tactics write up would be very useful.
You could do a whole one just on the placement and set up of seige equipment if you ask me. Each type of castle seems to need slightly different tactics and depending on the terain it changes again. Are particular units good at castle seiges? Which ones are worse than useless? Is it worth opening gatehouses or just break down walls to get a bigger entrance to fight through. Placement of seige engines and considering arc's of fire, ranges, targets, why you should place them so if you over shoot your target wall you hit something worthwile being to the side of where they were aiming, how height seems to mess so badly with their accracy.
How the AI will not be stupid and walk up that hill you have delopyed so nicely on, how the pause button lets to stop and take deep breaths when you have forgotten to take oxygen in during a particulary hectic redeployment (spacebar to see where units will end up)

Hope suggestions are useful

frogbeastegg
08-01-2003, 16:04
Just a small update, I'd got the date for the compass wrong somehow. I've also added in a small note in the events section on the need to wait for 1205 and build a cannon foundry before you can build a shipwrights guild. Thanks for highlighting that Celtlan.

Celtlan your suggestions for a tactics guide are very good, thats exactly the sort of thing I was thinking of including in 'Frog Tzu', that is if there is sufficient interest. I can't fit information like that into this beginners guide for several reasons, firstly it's more of an intermediate piece of information, secondly this guide is so long it's nearly at the post limit again and thirdly this guide is so long it's getting hard to find the part I want to edit

Anyway I'll let the discussion on future guides continue for a while and see what crops up.

DemonArchangel
08-02-2003, 00:08
DO THE UNITS GUIDE

frogbeastegg
08-03-2003, 17:37
The first of the new pictures is up You can thank Inigo Montoya for the hard work http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif Also thanks go to TosaInu for hosting this new picture.

As far as a new guide goes the total response to my poll so far gives me an estimated readership of....4 people Either people don't want another guide or they don't want to vote, I'm not sure which. I'll do a unit guide and see how well it is recieved. If it is useful I will follow it up with 'Frog Tzu', the two guides would work well together anyway. I'll post it in the main hall, the title will be something like 'The Complete Total War Unit Guide' Once again I will post it as a plain text guide at first and any pictures, expansions etc can be suggested by readers.

KukriKhan
08-03-2003, 18:29
I've been playing MTW for over a year...and I must say: I've learned at least 5 things I never knew, by reading your guide. My personal 'thanks'.

I never want to cause anyone else unnecessary work; but if your heart is still in it, I'll be an enthusiastic reader of any Units Guide you publish. Especially, since that's my main area of weakness. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

frogbeastegg
08-03-2003, 20:37
For anyone who cares to look, here is my proposed index for the new guide:

The Complete Total War Unit Guide.

Contents
1. Shogun: Total War and the Mongol Invasion (also called Shogun: Warlords).
1.1 The Japanese
1.2 Yari Ashigaru
1.3 Arquebusiers
1.4 Musketeers
1.5 Yari Samurai
1.6 Samurai Archers
1.7 No-Dachi
1.8 Warrior Monks
1.9 Naginata
1.10 Yari Cavalry
1.11 Cavalry Archers
1.12 Heavy Cavalry
1.13 Naginata Cavalry
1.14 Kensai
1.15 Battlefield Ninja
1.16 Ashigaru Crossbowmen
1.17 The Mongols
1.18 Mongol Light Cavalry
1.19 Mongol Heavy Cavalry
1.20 Korean Skirmishers
1.21 Korean Spearmen
1.22 Korean Guardsmen
1.23 Thunder Bombers
2. Medieval: Total War
2.1 Spearmen
2.2 Archers and ranged units
2.3 Swordsmen
2.4 Axemen
2.5 Pikemen
2.6 Polearms
2.7 Barbarians and Religious Fanatics
2.8 Peasants
2.9 Knights
2.10 Heavy Cavalry
2.11 Missile Cavalry
2.12 Light Cavalry
2.13 Camels
2.14 Naptha and Javelin
2.15 Artillery
3. The Viking Invasion
3.1 New Spearmen
3.2 New Swordsmen
3.3 New Heavy Cavalry
3.4 New Light Cavalry
3.5 New Missile Cavalry
3.6 New Axemen
3.7 New Peasants
3.8 New Artillery

Each section will have the unit stats, a secific section on the uses, strengths and weaknesses of each unit, and a 'King Of' in each (MTW + VI) category - a best unit (or units in a few cases). Is there anything else I need to add? Have I already forgotton something? Speak now to save much editing in the future http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

Current progress: Index = complete, introduction and copyright = underway, rest of guide = er, ask later http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/joker.gif

Divine Wind
08-05-2003, 12:07
I think we have a new HOF candidate fella's. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Satyr
08-05-2003, 18:14
Great job woman I think more people might benefit from a tactics guide than a units guide, but then what do I know. Also, a tactics guide could become community written, so to speak, as everyone throws their best tactics into the ring. I know that good tactics have done more for my enjoyment of the game than anything else and once one is comfortable doing battle, MTW becomes much more enjoyable, and the long time spent in a campaign is to be looked forward to, not dreaded.

WesW
08-05-2003, 20:34
Outstanding compilation. There are only a few things from the entire guide that I have questions/comments about:

1)Are you sure that double-clicking on an enemy will only make your unit run, rather than charge?
I remember in the tutorial of being warned not to charge too soon when I 2-clicked on an enemy from a distance. Units also have separate run and charge animations, and I seem to notice them displaying the charge positions when you 2-click on an enemy.

2)Also, has anyone ever confirmed conclusively that spears never receive a rank bonus in forests? If individual soldiers are not disrupted by trees, the supporting animation shows just as it would in open ground. I would think that the disruption would be calculated on a soldier-by-soldier basis, just as with individual armour, morale and so-forth.

3)This may just be a simple omission, which I can readily identify with, but I thought that general bonuses granted +2 morale in addition to +1 attack and defense, just as with regular valour upgrades.

4)This minor topic has been proven by DOC to be incorrect in most cases: "If a unit does not possess disciplined status by default the only way to add it is to build the military academy in one of your production provinces."
Buildings only give bonuses to units which require them to be available, so only Janissary units benefit from Academies.

Again, outstanding work on a quide of such scope.

frogbeastegg
08-05-2003, 21:07
I can answer those questions WesW, but unfortunately some of the answers aren't to good and I've got to be quick, there's a good program on at 9:00PM.

1)Absolutely positive. This feature was in Shogun, but I overlooked it for years - I only found it because of something I read about MTW (I think it may have been in the official guide). I have observed it on many, many occasions, to see for your self set up a simple custom game of 1 unit per side (so you can watch closely). When the battle begins single click on your enemy and watch your unit closely. They will walk most of the way and then when they get close you will hear a war horn and they will all begin to charge. This is very easy to see on one of the flat steppes maps. If you order the unit to run (double click) you will still see the animation and speed change when the horn sounds, although it is harder to spot. Try using some feudal MAA, when they charge they raise their sword above their head. The charge is started when the unit is close to it's target, that's why units sometimes charge immediately when you click on an enemy, once the horn sounds the charge has begun. Also why else would each unit have a walk/run/charge set of speed stats if they only ever walked and charged?

2)Spears in forests is awkward. Most posts I have seen, along with the guide and a post from CA last year all state that the rank bonus is missing in trees. Personal experience suggests the something similar; I've had sergeants loose very badly to weak cavalry, which they usually beat when they are on open ground. The units were in the appropriate ranks; orders etc and they met the cavalry face on. They were massacred, each and every time. I think that the rank bonus doesn't apply as a whole (i.e. the whole unit has it or the whole unit doesn't), rather I think it applies to individual men, so it is possible for some men to keep the bonus in trees while others in the same formation loose it. This is a bit too advanced to put in a beginners guide, so I shortened it to keep spears out of trees, which is good advice when you consider that most of the unit looses the bonus. Common sense also suggests to me that the spearmen couldn't hold their formation properly in a forest and TW is quite logical, but that's not proof in itself.

3)I got that part about the generals giving different kinds of valour from several posts made here by respected members of the community. Unfortunately it was months ago and I can't remember who they were (if I did I would credit them), and I can't find the topic either. This does seem quite reasonable because giving a morale bonus with generals valour would make the units very hard to control if they had several points of valour of their own. If someone can offer proof either way or remember the threads this first appeared in I would be grateful.

4)I always thought that sounded odd but it was common wisdom on both these forums and the official ones, so I used it because I'd not heard of DOC's theory. Can you point me to the thread with his evidence?

Mary - thanks http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif I've already started the unit guide (just finished the Shogun section), after that's done I will probably write Frog Tzu, or the tactics guide for those not in the know. I didn't want to go full bore with the tactics because there seemed to be little interest, also the guide would keep referring to the unit guide which I am now writing separately instead of combining the two.

Divine Wind - thanks to you to http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif, I'm honoured that you think me worthy of HoF However that's half a year away, and everyone will have forgotten this by then.

EDIT: Made a few parts clearer. The program was rather amusing, the first vaguely interesting program in weeks. You know, with the three posts above this one having the same avatar it's like Attack of the Clones

WesW
08-07-2003, 15:56
Thanks for the explanations. I don't remember which thread contained the post regarding the Military Academy. It may have been one of my mod threads, or it could have been one that DOC started around that time. I do know it was 2 or 3 months ago.

Nowake
08-07-2003, 17:12
This is the best untill now. Quite complex.

frogbeastegg
08-09-2003, 19:21
Now two of the new pictures are up Once again Inigo Montoya and TosaInu deserve a pat on the head for their hard work http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif

Current status of my new guide:
Index and intro=complete.
Shogun section=complete (pending more user comments).
MTW section=Just beginning the spearmen.
Overall status=1/5th done Things are going slowly because I'm in the middle of a heat wave. I can only have the PC on for an hour or so at the time before the cooling gets pushed (hey, its above running temerature before I even turn it on) and I'm not at my best in this heat. Being a frog I prefer the cool, damp weather of the winter (yes, this is true. Go January ). When things cool down it will get done quite quickly.

rafiki
08-11-2003, 13:16
Hi Frogbeastegg

Will your unit guide be made in different versions? E.g one solely meant for Medieval and one solely for Shogun? I play MTW, but not STW, so the STW-stuff is a bit wasted on people like me http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wacko.gif

Also, have you thought of making your guide(s) available as pdf's? The content is definately of printable quality http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Regards,
Rafiki

frogbeastegg
08-11-2003, 19:39
So far my unit guide is an all in one deal, there is a chapter covering Shoguns units (about 13 pages so far), a chapter coving the original medieval units (work in progress) and a third chapter covering the Viking Invasion units. The real bulk of the guide covers MTW but I included Shogun for those people that bought the budget edition recently, the Shogun section will be easy to skip, you'll just need to scroll down until you hit the large, bold Medieval: Total War section heading. If the guide gets so long I can’t post it all in one go I’ll probably split it by game so MTW will be separate then. When Rome comes out I may add that in or produce a separate companion guide to keep with the 'Complete guide to Total War Units' theme, after all it won't be complete if I leave a TW out.

I don't know how to produce a pdf but you can copy and paste the text into MS Word and get a printable version (31 pages long) although you won't get the pictures. You could right click on the pictures, save them and them print them separately for reference while reading the guide if you wanted. There is the possibility that this guide will be turned into a web page (with the help of some other patrons, I don't know much HTML) which will be more printer friendly, but this is far from certain and would take a while to do anyway.

I hope that helps http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

rafiki
08-12-2003, 08:58
frogbeastegg,

If you need help in turning the guide into an HTML-thingy, I'd be happy to help. I can also host it if you like.

I was originally thinking of making a guide myself, but gave up when I discovered yours, knowing that to make something even close to that was beyond my capabilities for now http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif If I can help in making it more accessible, I'd be privileged to do so. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Regards,
Rafiki

frogbeastegg
08-12-2003, 10:05
Thanks for the offer rafiki. This guides still got a little bit of updating to do (two new pictures, some final error checking etc) but when that's done I might accept the various offers to transform this into HTML. TosaInu suggested that the org may be able to host a HTML version, but I'm not sure if that offer's still available (probably but don't count your chickens before they're hatched and all that).

Anyway if the guide does go HTML you'd probably be working with Inigo Montoya (the picture editor and first HTML volunteer), I don't know whether that's possible (split work loads aren't always doable, but I don't know much about website construction) but I'll PM him and tell him about your offer. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Dirk
08-12-2003, 12:08
Hey...wonderfull
I was only wondering why I could not find anything on the map editor. You have been so utterly thorough that it surpried me you have not included the editor with all it's tricks.

Dirk

frogbeastegg
08-12-2003, 19:06
There are two reasons why I didn't do anything on the editor:
1)The guide is intended to help beginners learn to play the game.
2)I've never used the editor

If the editor is important someone could submit a ready written bit on it which I can copy and paste into the guide with full credit being given, Cheetah did this for the multiplayer section and there are a few other reader contributions scattered throughout the guide. Otherwise it will have to stay missing I'm afraid.

Glad you liked the guide http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

frogbeastegg
08-13-2003, 13:42
rafiki your offer to help has been accepted. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif You should have got a Private Message on the subject but the messenger was acting up so you'll either get three messages or no messages at all. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/rolleyes.gif

Basically you should contact Inigo Montoya by PM if you still want to help, he's in charge of the HTML version of the guide and he'll be able to tell you whats going on. You can find a post by Inigo here (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=9428), if you don't know how to use the orgs PM system just click on the little postcard symbol at the bottom of Inigo's post, if you aren't sure which icon you need leave your cursor above it a label will appear.

rafiki
08-14-2003, 07:31
Sorry frogbeastegg, but from I can read on the Help Page (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=HelpCODE=01;HID=17), I don't have access to PMs yet (since I am but a lowly junior patron http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif ).

Can you (or perhaps Inigo) send me a mail at rafiki@osc.no; then we can take it from there? http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wacko.gif

Regards,
Rafiki

frogbeastegg
08-14-2003, 08:44
Of course I forgot about that restriction Anyway I've sent a message to Inigo asking him to email you when he can so you should hear something soon. Thanks http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

frogbeastegg
08-16-2003, 12:14
WesW if you are still reading this I found something interesting on discipline while I was looking for DOC's post (still haven't found it), I think this is the root of the idea that the military academy gives discipline to non disciplined units.

The post is in a few questions (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=3633;hl=valour+ca) and it's the first post there by eat cold steel. Here a quote:
"> Military Academy?
It gives discipline +1"

That's all he says but the question he was answering was on the purpose of the academy. It's a little cryptic but it does confirm that the academy does something to discipline. I think I'll leave the guide entry alone unless I can find something conclusive, this is all getting rather confusing http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif

Dark Angel
08-19-2003, 16:42
Wonderful posting Miss Frogbeastegg. I have been playing Total War since STW came out and thought I knew almost everything but some of the information knocked me out.
Thanks.

FesterShinetop
08-24-2003, 10:58
Wow, very very nice http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif Great job and well written

Don't know if this helps but when I started to play I found it very easy to play as the Danes. That is also a very easy way to start this game with as you only have 1 province to run. The bigger factions can be a bit overwhelming to start with sometimes.

Longasc
08-28-2003, 16:12
Well... perhaps have all units a value for discipline...

disciplined would mean +5 or so.

those without probably have less, and all can get +1 discipline.

It might be like "strong" or "excellent charge", a name for a value of XX.

Cebei
08-29-2003, 02:13
I just wanna ask something about missile units. Even if its longbowmen firing at peasants or nizaris firing at hobilars, missile units bring very little number of men down. Is there a patch for that or is it deemed realistic? The same problem is there in STW too.. And it is better not to produce any gunpowder infantry as they simply cant kill anyone and create underbellies in your defence\offense equilibrium

frogbeastegg
08-29-2003, 11:42
Apache - Thanks, I'll include that in a future update along with the new pictures Inigo is still working on. It seems a little crazy to update this monster twice with just one or two words when I can update it once with one or two sentences. The whole thing is so long now that it's hard to edit.

Cebei - I'm including a lengthy section on these two topics in my next guide, it's good to know that I'm on target with the info I'm including. The poor accuracy of missile units is a feature of the game not a bug. It's not exactly deemed realistic either and many players are unhappy with it (although some like it and some don't really care either way). The problem is caused mostly by the fact that missile units cannot lead their targets so if the target is moving they are at very little risk unless they are moving towards a missile unit that shoots in a straight line (e.g. crossbows) as they will walk right into the oncoming missiles instead of having them fly over their heads. The best solutions that don’t require modding the game are:
*Don't shoot at moving units.
*If you have to shoot at a moving unit try to make it a slow one. There is no point in wasting missiles on charging cavalry, as you will be lucky to kill one man out of the entire unit.
*Try to use missile units that fire in a straight line instead of an arc (like crossbows and arbalesters) as they are less affected by moving targets and possess better accuracy in the first place.

Gunpowder units are an interesting problem - quite simply they are mostly crap and a waste of space The only one I can recommend is the Catholic hand gunner as they make very good swordsmen with the advantage of firing a volley at close range into the enemy before charging. I've included a few good strategies for those who are determined to use MTW's gunpowder units in my next guide, alas it is a little too long to cut and paste here. I'll give you a cut down version of the best tip though, pin an enemy unit with some junk troops (something you don't care about like regular spearmen) and run a unit of guns around the enemy unit before firing a volley at close range into their rear. If you set your guns up in three ranks they will fire much faster and you should cause some damage, just not a large amount.

If you want to read my more in-depth stuff the next guide will be done in about a week and a half, it is 70% done (and 43 pages in Microsoft word, it's already nearly hit the post limit which makes it longer than this guide already ) and will be proof read before it is posted so it should be much better than this one. I can promise you that you will find better answers to these questions in it (it also covers Shogun: Total War).

If you want to mod the game to make missiles slightly better while keeping them balanced either take a peek in the dungeon or post a topic here in the Entrance Hall and one of our experts will help you.

Cebei
08-29-2003, 12:37
Thanks so much frogbeastegg.. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

I guess I will want to mod the game; I usually play at expert level to improve myself (so perhaps it is the difficulty level). As an example, remember Lord of the Rings first movie? The battle scene, at the beginning of the movie? Elven archers' salvo eliminates the first line of charging orcs. Or as a second example Warrior Kings game; and archer efficiency in that game?

I am not comparing the god like MTW to any of these but you can get real pissed when two groups of arbalests can only bring 15 Byzantine infantry (standing and drinking tea) http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/mecry.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/mad.gif

LestaT
09-09-2003, 12:22
once again... i tried to click the link regarding mod for better targeting for missile unit but nothing happened.. can someone help me ???

Gregoshi
09-10-2003, 05:52
Hello and welcome LestaT. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Thanks for pointing out the broken link. I've contacted froggy, asking her to fix the link.

frogbeastegg
09-10-2003, 12:14
OK problem found, the topic was in the dungeon which has been reorganised so the link doesn't work. Sadly I can't find the topic I was linking to so I will write an appendix with instructions for basic projectile_stats modding and some suggested values to change the defaults to. I'll get to work on it this afternoon and should be done sometime this evening (UK time), I shall also edit the remaining two pictures into something smaller since I haven't heard from Inigo Montoya in a while and the dodgy formating is annoying me I've tested all the other links in the guide and they are still working.

LestaT - you say once again, have you posted about this before? If so I am very sorry for missing you, I've been rather busy lately (I'm trying to do too much at once, and I'm having to slow the next guide down and put my next story on the backburner for a while because of it) so I haven't been paying this guide enough attention. Thanks for pointing the problem out http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/pat.gif

frogbeastegg
09-10-2003, 13:19
First half of the update done.
-I've shrunk the pictures which has fixed the format at long last
-I've added Apache's suggestion about Denmark and I've added him to the credits.
-I've updated Bushface's advert in the resources section.
-I've tweaked a few other things you will never notice like typing.

Still to do:
-Remove the dud link.
-Add an appendix with modding tips.
-Finish tidying the format to get rid of the new formatting errors updating always adds.

Shahed
09-10-2003, 13:32
Froggy

If you ever need any help with taking/adding/modifying screenshots or hosting anything. You can count on me to help. Just gimme a shout and I'll be there.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

frogbeastegg
09-10-2003, 15:47
And that's the other half of the update I have
- Added in an appendix covering editing of the projectilestats file.
- Removed the broken link to the how to mod the projectilestats file and replaced it with a pointer to the appendix.
- Tidied up the formatting some more to get rid of the weird spacing that appears every time I update the guide.
- Tweaked the spelling and grammar some more - the guide is beginning to look somewhat professional http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif

You know somehow this guide seem so short now - my unit guide is already 43 pages long and it's only half done This one is now 33 pages.

SeljukSinan - Thank you http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif You've got a good sense of timing you know, I've send you a PM containing details of a secret project.....

frogbeastegg
09-15-2003, 11:52
Extracted from the Chronicles of Frogbeastegg, book II - The Beginner's Guide to Total War.

....and so the last two pictures were added to the guide and the people were glad. And frogbeastegg smiled and was happy for she no longer had mismatching pictures spoiling the scheme. There was much rejoicing in the land of org.

Keep your eyes peeled for the announcement of my secret project. I shall give you some clues
*It's not the unit guide.
*It is something people have been asking for.
*It is very long, just like everything I type.
*It is not an elephant
*It will be downloadable.

If anyone can guess what it is before the secret is revealed they will win a prize http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif

Divine Wind
09-15-2003, 19:25
Are you sure its not an elephant? http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif

FesterShinetop
09-17-2003, 00:43
FInally, your lifestory http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

I guessed it Now what do I win???

Shahed
09-20-2003, 14:38
LOL

Archlight
09-24-2003, 03:33
One thing that I've found I don't get is the Defensive Army thing. The guide seems to say that you should have one full stack per border province. I am well and TRULY a beginner, and I haven't yet gotten beyond 1175 or so, but how in the heck does someone have the money in the beginning to field that many troops?

I was given the advice to have a large army within reach of each border province(i.e. one province away, so you can at least counter attack) and that seems to work ok, but when you counterattack you now become the attacker, and that defensive army as noted in the guide becomes ill equiped for the job.

Is there something that I'm missing? Or are the full defensive stacks meant for later in the game when you have lots more resources? Thanks http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

frogbeastegg
09-24-2003, 15:05
Archlight - I was halfway through answering your questions when my power got cut off screwing up my PC. I'm half way to fixing it (didn't have internet access until a minute ago) and I will come back and answer your questions (again ) when everything is working properly. Please don't think I an ignoring you http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Archlight
09-25-2003, 00:25
frogbeastegg - No worries, I know how those computer troubles can be. Hope everything gets running smoothly again soon.

Also to clarify, I do now about setting up trade, and building mines and all that, just like in the rest of the guide, I just had the one specific question.

I'm in the middle of an egyptian campaign and I have a nice beginning little trade empire going. Except now Italy has attacked my shipping so time to bring the smack down on them. Too bad too as they are one of the potentially good trading partners... *sigh*

Thanks for getting back to me

frogbeastegg
09-25-2003, 10:02
Right, that seems to have fixed everything (I have said that four times already though ) so I shall try again.

The large stacks are expensive but certain factions can set them up quite quickly if the player is experienced (the more you play the better you get at setting up a good economy in a hurry) and everything goes smoothly. You don’t have to build the entire army in one go, most of the time I start off with just three spears, two bows and a single unit of cavalry. I then expand this army into the one listed in the guide when finances permit. You can have them set up around turn 30 if there are no major problems like busted trade empires Generally speaking you don't need them in the beginning of the game and at the same time you can't afford them. When you have a massive surplus of cash and your enemies are starting to put together large armies then you should think about introducing them.

As you noted the defensive armies are not very good at attacking, this is why I have one custom built attacking army behind each border (generally there are only two or three attacking armies in existence at one time, even in a large empire) which I send in to attack after the defensive army has stood its ground and battered the attackers into a disorganised rabble fleeing for home.

MTW is a different experience for each player, what works well for one won’t work for another. If you find that your current approach (I used to do that style of defence too, but I had to change it in the face of some aggressive AI) is working to your satisfaction keep doing it You could try using the army Cheetah recommended (3-4 ranged units, 6-7 melee units, 2 ranged cavalry and the rest heavier cavalry. No spears unless you expect to meet large quantities of cavalry or camels) as your multiple province defence force. It is more flexible and better suited to both your faction and your tactics.

Good luck in sorting the Italians http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Apache - Nope, it isn't my life story Divine Winds guess (in the Main Hall) at an elephant is also wrong Here is another clue:
The rain forest is not going to be happy

The secret project has been delayed by technical problems, however I am only waiting for one tiny part of it now.....

Archlight
09-25-2003, 17:37
Thanks for all the good tips oh froggy one

I haven't gotten to try them yet, but hopefully soon. I think I just need to keep starting campaigns until I get good at the economy part of things.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/joker.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

frogbeastegg
09-30-2003, 16:22
Just a tiny edit today. Bushface has been getting a lot of requests for the MTW info pack from readers having problems with 3D Downloads. With kind assistance from Seljuk Sinan I have posted an alternate download link - PLEASE ONLY USE THIS NEW LINK IF YOU CAN'T GET THE FILE FROM 3D DOWNLOADS

Since I'm posting here anyway (don't want to spam the thread):
Nope, it is definitely not an elephant Divine Wind

mister
10-03-2003, 13:44
HI frogbeastegg

This was great
Im a beginner, so this really helps
I have plyd a couple og campaigns with the english on normal diff.
It have not been a sucsess yet
I struggle with my income and winning battle..
maybe i should attack the french at once?

Hope u understand my english (its baad http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/rolleyes.gif )

frogbeastegg
10-03-2003, 19:16
Hello mister http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Don't worry about your English - it is very good http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Generally speaking most players will lose a few campaigns before they begin to win, so don't feel disheartened. If you want some ideas for English starting strategies check this topic (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=10072;hl=english), it has a large variety of possible paths you can take along with some good advice. If you find that the strategic battles overwhelm you perhaps you would benefit from playing some more custom battles. You would be able to get used to the units and interface without the pressure of needing to win all the time. You could also try some of the historical battles and campaigns in the game, they force you to use units you may not try otherwise and this can improve your skills greatly - they certainly improved mine

As far as income goes the advice in my guide is good but to have a really good economy you do need experience. Each time you play a campaign game you learn what you like to build, where you want to build and so on and this allows you to save money as you only build what you need. You also learn how to set up income increasers (mines, trade, farm improvements etc) that little bit better. After a few failed campaigns where you go bankrupt you slowly get better and before you know it you have more money than you will ever need. This thread (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=15;t=11050;hl=money) has a nice example of a player having problems making money as the English, it details some of the other (ransom, pillaging etc) ways of making money as the English at the start of a campaign. There are a lot of different players giving their strategies here, so you should find one that is helpful.

I hope this helps you, if you have more questions please come back and ask (this goes for other people too - if you have a question this is a good place to ask it) http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

frogbeastegg
10-07-2003, 13:32
A printable version of this guide is now available - check the front of the guide for details.

Thanks go to (in alphabetical order) Bushface, Sinan and Sjakihata Aketchi for proofreading the document. These crazy volunteers have the patience of saints Also thanks to TosaInu for posting the file for download. Inigo Montoya is responsible for the pictures, same as the forum-based guide.

The Wizard
10-07-2003, 14:56
I like this... taught me some things even I didn't know, or was too ignorant to learn... ahum. At least pretend you didn't read that. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

(Not wanting to spam =/)

adi
10-23-2003, 08:44
Hello frogbeastegg,
I think that discover gunpowder in 1260 is also an event.

frogbeastegg
10-23-2003, 10:47
Thanks adi, I've updated the guide accordingly. Strangely enough gunpowder is in the events list for the printable guide, maybe it got deleted accidentaly from this one. Anyway thanks for pointing it out.

noramis
11-12-2003, 23:51
Also, everything has a counter when you play...

Sword units > spear

spear can hold off cav

missles against unarmoured (and sometimes armoured) opponents

anything > peasants http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/joker.gif

heh, well, you get the idea.

dwarven_eagle
11-24-2003, 17:51
counters are extremly helpfull, I'm an old fan of AoM and the counters can win u a 4hr game, even if your opponet has an army twice your size.
In MTW I've found that by doing a custom battle with 2 units (u have 1 type enemy has other) is a good way to figure out teh best counters. But this takes to long so thanx again

frogbeastegg
11-24-2003, 19:03
The counter units are listed in the guide under the 'battle map' section. To recap:

*Spears beat cavalry
*Cavalry beat swords
*Swords beat spears
*Archers beat anything that is at a distance but lose in close fighting.
*Foot ranged units beat cavalry ranged units as they are more accurate and have a longer range.
*Camels beat horses.
There are very rare exceptions to this rule. For example some archers are good in hand-to-hand combat, like the longbowmen or Janissary infantry. Cavalry can beat spears if they charge them from behind and cause the unit to scatter, losing the bonus spears get from ordered ranks. Generally as long as you use common sense you will know when a unit stands a chance of beating its counter. To find out which archers are good in hand to hand fighting look at their stats in the unit tool noted in chapter 1.1. Any archer with 2 or more in attack will do reasonably in hand to hand, although you shouldn't expect wonders as melee is only their secondary job.

As for detailed descriptions of how each of the 100+ unit types perform in battle, well they will be in my unit guide (still a work in progress) because I ran out of space and it was too advanced for the beginners guide.

dwarven_eagle
11-25-2003, 07:48
thx again, I still haven't read the whole thing, but the build guids are really good (order of build to get certian types of units) So, how much time did it take...

frogbeastegg
11-25-2003, 11:44
Quote[/b] (dwarven_eagle @ Nov. 25 2003,06:48)]So, how much time did it take...
Writing this guide? Well the original version was done in a single day and it took around 12 hours. Since then I have been adding, correcting and expanding the guide more than I can remember. The current version is over twice as long as the original The guide got so long the forum code had to be altered to allow for longer messages, used to be limited to around 64,000 characters and the guide is over 100,000. I would estimate that all together including converting this into a printable format something like 50 -60 hours work. Not nearly as bad as the unit guide though - I have been writing the first draft of that for over 2 months and it still isn't done. That one is closer to 100 hours work.

Brutal DLX
11-25-2003, 12:20
You must be very dedicated and have a lot of free time on your hands then, froggy, but I'm sure we all appreciate your efforts http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

frogbeastegg
11-25-2003, 13:53
Dedicated? Well maybe. Time? Not really. Or then again maybe I do, the things I write are both work and a hobby. I took a year out from university to learn to overcome my dyslexia; I didn't want to get a degree handed to me on a silver platter because all my exam scripts are covered in yellow stickers declaring me to be dyslexic. I decided that a year of (amongst other things) constant writing and honing my feeble skill would allow me to write what I mean thereby improving my marks and allowing me to be proud of my degree. The idea of being handed a degree because I am a poor little dyslexic whose spelling, punctuation, grammar and clarity are ignored makes me sick.

The guides are perhaps a means to an end; by writing them I can practise. I need to be clear, concise and understandable in both my guides and my essays. If people cannot understand my guides then I know that something in my writing is wrong so I go back and change it. I may as well do something useful with my writing and I have been given space and opportunities on this site for the beginner’s guide, I might as well use them for a second guide. It will help people, hone my writing and make use of all the things TosaInu introduced for the beginner’s guide. I turn out the occasional story for practise as well. At least I am out of the paradox of alternatively loving and hating writing, now I actually like it most of the time. Before it go so frustrating because it was difficult to get anything down on paper.

I spend several hours each day writing, then go back and check my stuff. Often I delete it straight away and do it again. Shorter, faster, neater, better. Then I check it and still hate the result and do it all over again. Better. I am definitely improving, I was without my spell checker for over 2 weeks but for the most part my stuff was (just) readable. 6 months ago it wouldn't have been. Compare my latest story in the Mead Hall (The Machiavellian Adventures of Princess Eleanor) to my early work (Behind the Vices and Virtues) and you can see a significant improvement. The V&V series is embarrassingly bad. The Adventures are tolerable but a plot problem jammed them up just as they were getting good. No idea what to do with Eleanor now, shame because I liked that series.

Most of the time involved in these guides is taken up deleting and redoing my work. I would estimate over half my time is spent redoing various parts. The original beginner's guide was a mess because I didn't check it over and redo it enough. I will not make the same mistake again.

After years of trying I can finally spell necessary correctly on my first go Just need to add in handwriting, maths and name/number related memory to my 'lessons' and I'll be getting somewhere.

dwarven_eagle
11-25-2003, 18:45
Well, I never would have known you were dyslexic unless you told me. From the beginers guide I see just VERY well written work, but I haven't read any other writings of Frogs yet so I won't say anything else.
(wish I was that dedicated to something)
not only are you improving your skills by writing, but your helping others by doing it

Sniya
11-29-2003, 16:00
Btw this rocks this guide

Gregoshi
11-30-2003, 10:12
Greetings Sniya. Welcome to the Guild forums. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif Another appreciative fan of froggy's excellent work.

Ludens
11-30-2003, 17:32
Miss Frogbeastegg, thank you for this excellent Total War Primer. I'm sure it will be of great use during my future campaigns.

By the way, where and when can I find your unitguide?

Ludens

frogbeastegg
11-30-2003, 18:20
My unit guide is still a work in progress. Yes, I started it in August and it is still being written It is now about 85% complete and weights in at 69 pages with 17 tactical pictures (to be increased shortly, needs pics of javelins, naptha and missile cav in use, also chasing routers efficiently with light cav) and 29 assorted tiny pictures to break it up and make the unit sections easier to find.

It'll be done for Christmas, maybe another week of writing and time for my proofreaders to take it to pieces. I will probably post it in the main hall as it is the most appropriate location. Just keep your eyes peeled and you'll see a topic entitled 'The Complete Total War Unit Guide' appear and that will be the mythical guide made real.

I have already purchased a nuclear bunker to hide in after I release it I should be safe from the flood of amendments and corrections if I am 100 feet down http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif The current dilemma is do I leave the camel jokes in or shall I take them out? I'll decide while I finish the javelin and naptha section. When I finish the naptha section I shall have to decide if I am leaving the naptha jokes in, why do those two unit types lend themselves to comedy so well?

Michael the Great
12-09-2003, 22:47
FrogBeastEgg,you have a lot of (free) time to type all that (cool) stuff.

L`zard
12-10-2003, 13:37
http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif Froggy isnt just a person, she's a resource

I'd add a vote to make her a national (.org) shrine if there were such a thing

Not to mention required reading for the MTW college class, eh?

Live forever, Frostbeastegg You Conquer

Sun Tzui
12-11-2003, 17:10
http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Congratulations to you frogbeastegg...your screenshots of the battle tactics were most useful, and i was able to pic up a thing or two i didn't understand before.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Gregoshi
12-12-2003, 14:44
Greetings and welcome Sun Tzui. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif Isn't it amazing how you can still learn stuff about MTW after nearly a year and a half of play? http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif

Sun Tzui
12-12-2003, 18:01
http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Life is but an endless spiral of learning http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/joker.gif

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

WarHawk1953
12-29-2003, 02:26
frogbeastegg,
Thank You for the guide. I just bought MTW and have ordered Viking Invasion. I have played STW:WE and I have found that MTW is harder strategicaly and easier tacticaly. Your guide will be a lot of help. I have tried the Early English on Normal and have had my headed handed to me by the French.

I have found that bribing the Welsh helpful and taking Scotland a mistake so far. The Frech build up has me beat. In my war I had three objectives, (1) Take Brittany ,(2)Flanders, raid Paris and weaken the the French. I would like to take them all out as early as possible but the English are two weak in the begining. What would be the earliest date to knock out the French? Well with some study I will find the right answer to reach theses objectives.

Which faction is the easiest to play by faith? Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim? Why?

frogbeastegg
12-29-2003, 12:41
Quote[/b] (WarHawk1953 @ Dec. 29 2003,01:26)]frogbeastegg,
Thank You for the guide. I just bought MTW and have ordered Viking Invasion. I have played STW:WE and I have found that MTW is harder strategicaly and easier tacticaly. Your guide will be a lot of help. I have tried the Early English on Normal and have had my headed handed to me by the French.
Yes the transition can be a little shocking, especially if you used ashigaru troops in Shogun and thought peasants were the MTW equivolent Also attacking and taking too much land without stopping to rebuild frequently is a common ex-Shogun mistake that results in mass rebellions and crumbling empries. Many a former Daimyo has been defeated for those mistakes. The Viking era campaign in the add-on is a lot closer in feel and style to Shogun than the main medieval one.



Quote[/b] ]I have found that bribing the Welsh helpful and taking Scotland a mistake so far. The Frech build up has me beat. In my war I had three objectives, (1) Take Brittany ,(2)Flanders, raid Paris and weaken the the French. I would like to take them all out as early as possible but the English are two weak in the begining. What would be the earliest date to knock out the French? Well with some study I will find the right answer to reach theses objectives.
Tricky question as it depends on the player, the difficulty, what the AI wants to do and so on. Generally speaking it is easier to knock the French out sooner rather than later because they have richer lands than you and often only grow stronger with time. This is where the English need to do a Shimazu and conduct a fast and victoriouis war that is finished inside of 2 years. Take 3 French provinces (Flanders, Brittany and Toulouse for me) in those 2 years and the French are as good as gone. With a little more prepping up up can take 4 provinces in the 2 years. When you get the warning from the Pope stop and wait for exactly 10 years before attacking again. You can have the French wiped off the map inside of 20 turns from the start of the game, well with practise anyway. There are a lot of topics on tactics for the English campaign so I won't reitterate, just run a search for England.


Quote[/b] ]Which faction is the easiest to play by faith? Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim? Why?
You don't do easy questions, do you? http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif That depends on several factors such as what tactics you like to use on the battlefield, what kind of position you want on the campaign map, whether you want to deal with the Pope or not, etc. I always find the Catholic factions easier because I like their armies and I fight well with them, enabling me to win battles that are unfavourable in odds. Easier Catholic factions include England and Spain, while Spain is rated hard by the game it is actually very easy because it has rich lands, easy access to iron for troop upgrades, an enemy that is made for attacking without upsetting the Pope (Almohads), reasonable trade with access to both the Med and North seas, and a narrrow set of borders with France and co. There are also many gold mines along the trail leading to the Crusader provinces and you can sweep them up while moving to grab the hideously rich and worthwhile trio of Antioch, Tripoli, and Edessa. Spain has the typical Catholic army with a couple of extra units thrown in, Jinetes are very good when you get the hang of them and lancers are devestating but only around in late and you will probably have finished your camapign by then. England you have already seen, once they hit high they have some excellent unique units (billmen and longbows) and if you have taken out France and got Wales and Scotland you are in a very healthy position to persue a multitude of posibilites. Both these factions benefit from a aggressive start - think like Shimazu in the early game and flatten those who pose a threat to you before settling back to build your borders and stabilise. All Catholic factions have to deal with the Pope and that is their biggest drawback. However once you learn how to take care of the Pope (poisoned chocolates work well, as do visiting armies kicking over his sandcastles ) life becomes much sunnier

The Muslim factions don't have to deal with the Pope screaming at them each time they do anything and this is part of their appeal to many players. However they do tend to be on the recieving end of crusades but as long as you keep strong borders they shouldn't pose a problem. Muslim factions tend to have more flexible armies as they often get a lot of speedy cavalry and mounted missile units. Infantry wise they don't have the punch of the Catholics except for certain eras where they do have a very nice advantage. The Almohads have strong infantry in early but less so in high and late, the Egyptians have a few nice spear units like Saracens, and the Turks trample the opposition when they get their Janissary units in High. However generally speaking you can't just assemble an army and march straight at the foe and squish them like the Catholics. The Almohads are a good faction for a beginner as they start with a good position and have easy access to one of the best units in early - the Almohad urban militia. The Turks are easy in high or late. The Egyptians are supposed to be easy in early but I don't get on with their armies too well so I find them harder.

Orthodox factions are a mixture. The Byzantines start off incredibly strong but by late they are as weak as anything because in terms of units they have everything at the start and that is basically it for them - no real upgrades like the other factions. You need to get going in early and basically kick ass for lack of a better description Stabilise your empire and then destroy the foe with all possible speed but be careful not to over reach and trigger a lot of rebellions. They have good enough units to persue either strong arm Catholoic style infantry and heavy cavalry pounding the enemy or to take a more mobile approach with their miunted archer types and faster cavalry. The Russians are not available in early and they are usually classed as quite hard. Orthodox factions don't deal with the Pope and they can be common targets for crusades but as long as you keep your borders protected this shouldn't be a problem.

Decide whether you want to faff around with the Pope and then try out some of the factions. If you like the armies then try the faction in the campaign.

Quokka
12-30-2003, 13:02
You may want to add a paragragh to the section on Crusades outlining how you get the Crusader Knights only in a Crusade. There are always questions about how to train Templars, Hospitallers and Santiagos as the manual is very unclear on this point. I think it was also the first question that I asked.

Ashen
12-30-2003, 13:43
I thought santigago were untrainable due to a slight oversight, available only with crusades?

frogbeastegg
12-30-2003, 14:59
Added small section on crusader units and a link to the unit guide. Ditto for the entrance hall version.

WarHawk1953
12-31-2003, 01:00
frogbeastegg,

Thank You for your reply. I think that Your answer to: Which faction is the easiest to play by faith? Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim? Why? That this answer be added to your manuel. Your answer was very informantive for a beginner.

I do have another question? Size of units, default, med, large, How size of units effect the game? I am playing default now

WarHawk1953
12-31-2003, 01:03
frogbeastegg,

One other question on units.Does the AI retrain and upgrade units?

frogbeastegg
12-31-2003, 11:25
Unit sizes.
On small size: Bodyguards 20 cavalry 20 infantry 30 spears 50
On default size: Bodyguards 20 cavalry 40 infantry 60 spears 100
On medium size: Bodyguards 20 cavalry 53 infantry 80 spears 133
On large unit size: Bodyguards 33 cavalry 66 infantry 100 spears 166
On huge unit size: Bodyguards 40 cavalry 80 infantry 120 spears 200

Smaller unit sizes give you plenty of space to manouver on the battlefield but it is harder to deploy spears and pikes to get the rank bonus because they are rather fiddly at smaller sizes. Larger unit sizes make the battlefield seem very small and it can get hard to manouver as effectively as you might like, however it is easy to arrange spears/pikes to get the rank bonus. Of course there are also the performance related issues with unit size, basically smaller is better in terms of game performance. I play on medium.

AI upgrading.
Well you do see AI owned units with the upgrade icons so they certainly construct the upgrade buildings so newly built units get bonuses. Whether they go back and retrain old units to get the new bonuses and refill the men is less certain. If they do it is on a limited scale because I am always seeing a lot of damaged units hanging around. My gut instinct would be that the AI does not retrain.

The guide.
Ok, copying it over to both versions.

frogbeastegg
12-31-2003, 11:35
New updates as requested - a bit on factions, religion and difficulty, and something on crusader knights and how to get them.

I suppose I may as well add that the unit guide is out now, and has been for a couple of weeks. Unit guide (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13453)

WarHawk1953
01-01-2004, 02:05
frogbeastegg,
Thank you again for your info, unit size should be added also. I did find part of that out when I tried the same faction on each option to see for my self. Which size do you find best? Which would you recomend and why?

frogbeastegg
01-01-2004, 11:57
I use medium in both Shogun and MTW. Originally I used that setting because it was the largest my then crappy PC could handle and the default units always seem too small to make the battle feel like a real battle rather than a skirmish. Now my PC has been upgraded I can use any of them but I find that past medium the units get too large to fit on the battlefield properly, for example two units of spears can perch on a certain hilltop on medium but on huge you can only fit one and a half. This makes it much harder to arrange my army how I like. The smaller unit settings lose the epic feel of the game but they are nice and easy to arrange. I'm a creature of habit and changing the settings from medium would represent a lot of confusion as I wonder where the extra 20 bodyguards came from

The option is really performance related, so if your PC is a bit weak you should stick to the smaller sizes. If your PC is capable then you can try the larger sizes and find one you are comfortable with. Medium will always represent (to me) a happy balance between performace, maximum men on the field, manouverability, and ease of deployment.

I shall add that into this guide, the chart originally comes from my unit guide. There are some other things that might be useful for this guide so I think I shall have to revamp the whole thing. Besides the beginner's guide is so shabby looking and unproffessional in comparison to the unit guide that it makes me wince. That and the fact I have to redo this as HTML myself since the people who were supposed to be doing that have vanished, meaning I need to smarten it up a bit before I break out notepad.

frogbeastegg
01-01-2004, 15:01
Once again added more requested information. Also a pile of new stuff like economic break even points, command lines, cheat codes, unit size comparison charts, extra information on a few hundred points etc etc.

Also revamped the format slightly so the index is more useful. Chapter headings are now in a larger font to make them easier to find. The credits now have names in bold so they are easier to find. The general layout has been tweaked to break up large chunks of text, also fixed typos and spelling errors. Finally got around to listing the VI patch as available with a link.

So not quite a whole new guide but certainly a lot of changes making this a new version up from the last one, version 3.0 I think. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/read.gif Yes 1.0 was the original, 2.0 was the printable so this is 3.0

Michael the Great
01-01-2004, 19:18
frogbeastegg,I must this is a GREAT guide
Could'nt of wrote it better myself... http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Shigawire
01-03-2004, 09:01
Since I'm more active on other forums, I don't have the user-status to reply to your unit-guide topic, so I will have to reply here in the entrance-hall http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

I must say it's the most stunning and insightful guide I've ever read for MTW. (I read it all) Even if I've played the TW-games perpetually, I still learned things, even BASIC things.(probably due to poor documentation with the game)

Anyway, here's what I came to talk about. You mentioned the fact that knights should be used for charging, and not get stuck in as infantry.


Quote[/b] ]Knights are wasted in a melee so you should aim to charge and rout the enemy within a few seconds of combat. If the enemy do not break pull your knights back by either double clicking on the location you want them to go to or hitting control+W to make them withdraw. If you make them withdraw you must remember to order them to halt before they get too far away or they will leave the battlefield. As for which method is more use it depends on the situation. Sometimes your knights will ignore your move order and refuse to leave the fight; in this case ordering a withdrawal is more reliable. However in the middle of a heavy fight ordering your knights to withdraw can place them in worse danger. You should learn both methods and discover when to use each one. When your knights are a reasonable distance from the fight order them to charge back in. Keep doing this until the enemy break. Generally speaking knights possess average speed for cavalry ? they are not fast but they are not slow either. This aids their flanking abilities.

I've found a way in which the cavalry can more efficiently follow your order for moving out of the melée. As you charge, they should of course be in Engage-at-Will, but after the impact, as you want to take them out, I usually give them the order of hold position. As soon as I give them a double-click to run AWAY from the melée, that move-order suddenly gains more signifigance due to the hold-position order. The HP-order applies NOT to their current position, but to their destination. This makes your move-order more prioritized. If Hold Position isn't enough to make them follow your order, you can also add hold formation since this will make them less preoccupied in closecombat by removing the Engage-At-Will order. Though this can be a double-edged sword, if just a few knights get stuck in the melée the rest will wait up for them to join formation.
Experiment with this. Enjoy And a happy new year

Again,a beautiful Unit-guide composed by mr. Frogbeastegg http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

frogbeastegg
01-03-2004, 14:14
Shigawire that has to one of the best little tips I have encountered in a long time. It works fantasically - fewer casualties and less micromanagement than using the withdraw and halt tactic, more reliable than just double clicking, and even better it works in Shogun as well. I have always had difficulty in getting mounted units out of a fight in Shogun and this is the first truly reliable method I've seen, even ordering them to withdraw is very hit and miss in Shogun. I shall be adding this one to guide in all the relevant sections and giving you credit, of course. Excellent

Shigawire
01-03-2004, 19:12
Hey, glad to be of some service

What I learned from your omnipotent guide was first of all how armor-piercing bonuses work, which are really interesting.. I never knew that the more armor they had the more susceptible to AP weapons they were.. nor did I know about the obvious ALT+RMB to face a formation.. nor did I know about ALT+LMB to move a group in formation. Were these things ever written in the manual? Also, I learned that the archers have a TRUE line-of-sight with regards to accuracy.. so now I know that I shouldn't deploy archers straight behind a formation, but rather a little bit behind so they can see over the formation.. fundamental and obvious perhaps http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif

frogbeastegg
01-03-2004, 21:16
I can't take credit for the armour piercing bonus formula as Kraxis donated that, he's listed for it in the credits. All the same it is good to have all this information bundled together instead of scattered across many forums.

The alt+rmb formation facing was in Shogun and mentioned on the hotkey list, in the tutorial (I think), and in the manual. However they always made it sound like you clicked at the point you wanted the unit to look at, rather than holding the button down and rotating the ghost formation. Of course this never worked and I spent ages frantcially clicking all over the place trying to get my Samurai to face the enemy only for them to end up backwards just as the charge hit. I finally twigged onto the fact you had to hold the button down after playing MTW for several months, MTWs manual etc also made it sound as if you clicked rather than dragged. All those years of frustration and such a simple solution. Truly a case of D'oh http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/dizzy.gif

Alt+lmb was also in Shogun, and both games advertised it in the tutorial on movement if I remember correctly. Again it took a while before I twigged that one and got it working correctly.

I knew about the archers line of sight fright from the get go as it was one of the advertised 'realistic features of Samurai warfare' on the battle trainer demo in PC Gamer. It is very obviously common sense when you think about it but so few games (only Shogun and MTW to my knowledge) use this system and you slowly learn to ignore the possibility. Bit like the lack of friendly fire in Age of Empires - I was so shocked when my archers shot my own men for the first time. This is one of the reasons why I wouldn't touch the Age of Empires style games now, they are too dumbed down in comparision to the Total War series version of the battlefield.

Shigawire
01-04-2004, 12:00
Amen. Having grown up on mainstream RTS'es since Dune 2, I've grown accustomed to the whole system, far too accustomed. In fact, I find the mainstream RTS games so unoriginal now that I can't stand playing them for more than 5 minutes. This includes everything in the C&C franchise, *Craft brand, the so-called historical EmpireEarth and AOE.. etc etc.. the only few RTS'es I still have fond memories of are Dune2, C&C1 and Total Annihilation. And some underdogs like Earth 2150. The developers haven't advanced the RTS genre a milimeter. It feels like the development of these mainstream RTS games proceeds like the trench-wars in WW1.. forwards (improvements) and backwards.. by increments.

Of course, when I consider Total War SUPERIOR, I mean the battles. The strategic part could still be way more improved (Enter: RTW) The battle-aspect of TW is so far superior to any of the other RTS'es, that I have a habit of comparing them like this: TW = Technics Lego, mainstream RTS = DUPLO/Fisher Price. This comparison isn't too far off when you notice the annoyingly overdimensioned unit-size relative to buildings - like baby-toys. Another thing about these games that annoy me is the complete absence of battle tactics. You just have a few dozen men, and these are called an army. These wild men are entirely without structure or clearly defined flanks. Even some barbarian warlord would be annoyed at the lack of order. It dawns upon me that more people should try TW. TW needs more and more publicity. Then maybe we could end this hegemony of the mainstream RTS market, and finally get more pioneers trying out new things. As of now, only 10% try to develop more radical approaches to strategic/tactical gameplay, while 90% of the devs follow the herd and play safe using minimal effort - incorporating a 12-year old (1992, Dune2) A4-format. Thus, if a developer wants to create a splendid RTS game, they don't try to think OUT OF THE BOX, they just pigeon-hole that idea into the already tested-and-proved formula.
If the TW-games could turn the trend around, then maybe we could have 30% making more original ideas, instead of just the 10% we have now? OR, would there just be more TW-clones instead of C&C-clones? http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/idea.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/dizzy.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/flat.gif

Bah.. there I go ranting about Mainstream-RTS again. Excuse me. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/rolleyes.gif

Ludens
01-04-2004, 12:44
Quote[/b] ]There I go ranting about Mainstream-RTS again. Excuse me.
Doesn't matter. This is a Total War forum. Worship of Total War is allowed here, as is the de-basing of False Gods.

But mainstream RTS-makers just give what the public wants, and most of the public wants quick action. Build 20 GI's and storm the rebel stronghold If you want quick action, TW is not the best game, because the are so many things you need to keep in mind.
But that is also the charm of the game.

monkeyboyalpha
01-10-2004, 18:43
This is a great guide, especially as its been written by a GIRL apparently http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif Wots goin on in the world? girls gettin good at video games http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/eek.gif Hehehehehe only jk.

On ure points about assault troops, y only 2 ranks? Surely they need to be ranked up also so as to press forward against a ranked up opponent. If the spears or polearms troops have the rank numbers then they are going to win in war to see who pushes who back.

Im an old WHFB player so Im aware that troops who are in the front ranks cant fight back if they are dead, but the ranked up spear units will have more men to press forward into the combat, this in turn will break through the assault troops who are only deployed in 2 thin lines deep.

Yes the assault troops lap round the units flanks but that still doesnt change the fact that the spear unit has penetrated through the centre of the thin assault line???

Please explain ure reasoning.

Fab post


http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/otn/animals/shakin.gifMBA

frogbeastegg
01-10-2004, 20:20
What is WHFB? It sounds familiar but my mind has gone blank....

Well my reasoning is more down to the way MTW works; only spear and pike troops get bonuses for being in ranks. Sword units and the like just have men stood at the back unable to fight, no actual support for them. When a assault unit is deployed into two ranks it will be able to flank both sides of the spear formation, in more realistic simulations this wouldn't matter so much and the assault troops would be shattered. In MTW it is the other way around - the pressure on the flanks of the spear unit causes the formation to crumple very quickly and they are cut to pieces. The spears never punch through the centre of the assault unit, well not unless they are considerably better in terms of valour and upgrades or have a huge inherent advantage like facing outdated units. Deploying the assault troops into three ranks drastically cuts down the flanking effect and reduces the number of men able to get into the fight quickly, making the attack less effective.

Against non-spear enemies two ranks are still better because they allow you to get the men into the fight that little bit quicker, increasing the damage done on the charge and taking out enemy men that little bit faster. Besides the AI often has the gumption to use a long, thin formation itself so your unit could end up flanked if it doesn't match.

You can get a good look at this effect in a custom battle or two. Set one up with a single unit of swords against equal valour etc spears on a flat map like the steppes for fairness. Control the swords and deploy them in two ranks before marching straight at the enemy and letting your unit charge. Note how quickly they push the spears out of formation, thereby removing their rank bonus. Keep a record of the kill/loss counts and then try the same thing again with the swords in a deeper formation of three or four ranks and note the difference. You should see a pretty dramatic result that favours the two ranks.

At least there is one nod to the need for bulk in infantry battles - one rank formations die. A lot.

From what I have seen on Time Commanders it looks like Rome: Total War is going to incorporate the rank effect for all infantry as the sword armed troops have always fought better when they have a few ranks behind them pushing them forward. Whenever contestants have deployed in thin formations like the ones recommended in MTW the men get swept away by sturdier formations that punch through the middle. A welcome touch of realism, but RTW is not out yet and that is only based on my observations of a TV programme. Odd, one day commenting on how realistic the line of sight is in MTW, and the next lamenting the lack of realism in infantry warfare

Hope that helps.

monkeyboyalpha
01-11-2004, 02:52
Good reply, will try the unit pair off tests later today when I get up, lol, its 01:48 UK time now, hehe.

Ps. WHFB = Warhammer Fantasy Battle, Games Workshops table top strategy slug out fest.


http://www.gamers-forums.com/smilies/otn/animals/shakin.gifMBA

The_Emperor
01-11-2004, 03:01
Quote[/b] (monkeyboyalpha @ Jan. 11 2004,01:52)]Good reply, will try the unit pair off tests later today when I get up, lol, its 01:48 UK time now, hehe.
Nothing wrong with being on here at this time...


Sleep when you die man (Like those poor souls on that Shattered Tv programme)

frogbeastegg
01-11-2004, 11:26
Quote[/b] (monkeyboyalpha @ Jan. 11 2004,01:52)]Ps. WHFB = Warhammer Fantasy Battle, Games Workshops table top strategy slug out fest.
Yes, that's it. I know the game slightly, never played it but I saw some people battling away at collage once. I didn't get to watch for long because girls don't play games but it looked interesting enough.

Pruneau
01-11-2004, 15:23
Aye Caramba, this is wonderful stuff. So wonderful infact, that I am gonna go hook up that old printer especfially for this and print it all on paper for reading while on the loo http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif

Ludens
01-12-2004, 16:54
Froggy, as I already said, I'm very impressed by your work.
But I cannot find any reference to wedge-formation. Is it useless?

And, but this is just splitting hairs, perhaps you should add that spearmen in Shogun do not get a rank bonus.

Thanks, Ludens

BTW why Europa Barbarorum?

frogbeastegg
01-12-2004, 18:47
Europa Barbarum is Stephan the Berseker's campaign to get more accurate units into RTW. Less pickaxe wielding berserkers and more accurate barbarians. An evolution of this thread (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=19;t=11441), people are beginning to put the banner in their sig to show support but the banner with my sig would be too long and the small sig brigade would crusade me http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif Besides I don't like big signatures and I want accuracy for all factions, not just the barbarian ones - no more resurrected Pharonic mummies fighting for Egypt please CA, I am asking politely because I want RTW to be the game of my dreams http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif There have been PMs going around about it, but if you haven't received one yet you could contact Stephan and ask for details.

Wedge formation? Actually I forget that one exists in MTW, so rarely do I use it. Now in Shogun a good wedge of no-dachi really hits the spot and performs well on a charge but in MTW I always found them a bit lacking because the men don't mix up and get in the fight as quickly as they did in Shogun. In STW you can use a wedge to charge, do a lot of damage while losing a few guys and then switch to close after a couple of seconds to fight it out. In MTW you just don't do that much damage, the wedge doesn't penetrate the enemy line as well and it takes longer for the men at the back to get into the fray after switching to close. I found I always did more damage and lost fewer men with my units on close, two ranks (or the correct number for spears and pikes) than I did on wedge because while wedge has a better attacking stats bonus for the initial charge fewer men actually used their charge bonus becasue there were less men fighting. Judging from how little discussion of the wedge formation there is now I assume that many others don't use it much, if at all.

Wedge can be good for manovering because it is smaller and tighter than a line, also you don't have to drag the unit out which helps if you are in too much of a hurry to make a 6 rank deep close formation to achieve the same compactness. I still use wedge in Shogun from time to time.

The guide isn't really applicable for Shogun, I should have called it The Beginner's Guide to Medieval: Total war but it is half a year too late to change it. A lot of the tips do go both ways but so much doesn't that it would be futile to label what doesn't work for Shogun. Back when I wrote this Shogun wasn't working and I hadn't played it in over a year so I didn't remember exactly how different some of it was. If Shogun was more popular I could put together a matching guide for Shogun but there don't seem to be many people picking the game up now.

Mount Suribachi
01-12-2004, 20:01
One use for the wedge that I and others use is for archers when they run out of arrows - at a glance you can see which still have ammo & which don't and they're also much easier to manuever round the battlefield than 2 long stringy rows of soldiers

Ludens
01-14-2004, 18:16
Thanks for the information, Frogbeastegg.
As you can see; I too have joined up with Europa Barbarorum without adopting the banner. YOU need not fear the Crusade against Oversized Sigs because you're pretty much invulnerable to the supporters of these petty campaigns http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-grin2.gif .

Mount Suribachi, thanks for the tip.

.:vVv:.Monkey
01-15-2004, 00:44
Just registered here, ehhh I can't believe I need to go thru a n00b phase before I can post all over the forum http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-tongue2.gif

Anyways, this unit guide is simply amazing I've had this game for more than a year now but obviously I didn't know what the heck I was doing until I read the Beginner's Guide and the Unit guide.

A PDF version of the Unit Guide is something I am looking forward to (hope it happens soon) http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-thumbsup.gif

Also, is there a way to print out all the unit stats (Charge, attack, defence, etc) in an excel spreadsheet format? Do I have a file somewhere in my MTW:VI folder that contains this info?

thx in advance

-monkey

oh and check us out if you play UT2003 :) Very different genre but hey http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-sunny.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-jester.gif
----------------------
.:vVv:. UT2003
http://vvv-clan.com/

ichi
01-15-2004, 08:39
Quote[/b] (.:vVv:.Monkey @ Jan. 14 2004,16:44)]Also, is there a way to print out all the unit stats (Charge, attack, defence, etc) in an excel spreadsheet format? Do I have a file somewhere in my MTW:VI folder that contains this info?
Crusader_Unit_Prod for MTW, for VI it is Viking_Unit_Prod, both in the main Total War directory. They are txt files.

ichi

frogbeastegg
01-15-2004, 16:04
A word format printable guide should be available within days. After that comes PDFs etc, the cleaned up word document should be easier to work from.

I think someone did an excel spreadsheet of unit stats ages ago, try looking in the downloads section to see if anything sounds likely.

I shall pass on your invite to a little UT - I really suck at FPS because I couldn't dodge to save my life (bad pun alert), even though I am a good shot. Even the AI can annihilate me. On easy difficulty. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-embarassed.gif Getting loads of head shots from long range even with a pistol does little good when you get turned into an imitation sieve

.:vVv:.Monkey
01-15-2004, 18:56
Thank you Ichi and Froggy http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-thumbsup.gif

Good to hear that a word version is coming. That guide kicks ass. Thanks to that I have played more MTW in the past week or so than the past year

Ludens
01-24-2004, 16:44
Frogbeastegg, I have done a couple of experiments in Shogun custom battles (WE 1.02 stats) to test the effectiveness of different formations. I wanted to see what was better: 2 lines, 3 lines or a wedge. The results were not exactly what I expected.

Setup
Map: the ironing board
Weather: mostly fine (sometimes light rain)
Difficulty: normal
Units: H2 no-dach samurai (me, ronin) versus H2 yari samurai (computer, Shimazu)

Experiment
I formed up the no-dachi samurai in the appropriate formation, then ordered them to attack the enemy (attack, not "charge"). Then I started time-compression (*) and waited until the battle was over. I counted casualities from the tooltip of the units, not the end-battle screen, since that always said that one or two more yari samurai had died than the tooltip indicated.

The test was repeated 15 times for each formation. After each test kills and casualities were registered. When all tests were completed, kills / casualities were averaged and kill ratio was calculated.

* Special case: the wedge-formation switching to close, I waited until all no-dachi samurai had had a chance to charge, and then switched to close. Then I turned on time compression.

Results
No-dachi samurai:

Formation kills/casualities | kill-ratio | number of defeats
Close, 2 lines 47,3/22,1 2,14 0
Close, 3 lines 47,2/21,5 2,20 1
Wedge 45,3/44,9 1,01 7
Special ** 50,1/33,9 1,48 2

** Wedge formation switching to close, 3 lines after impact

Evaluation
The results for 2 and 3 lines close formation are so alike that the difference is not significant. Not in these specific circumstances, that is. The single defeat at 3 lines close formation is probably just bad luck.
Wedge formation is a downright disaster: half of the time the no-dachi samurai were defeated. Wedge switching to close after the charge did cause more kills, but the price in casualities was even higher, so it isn't much use.

So far it seems that 3 lines close formation is better: it is less vulnerable (except for missile weapons) and more manoeuvrable than 2 lines close formation.

However,
1) The Computer-controlled yari samurai were in 4 lines close formation and prefered to charge in stead of absorbing the charge with hold formation. Since wedge is supposed to be used against hold formation and not against charging troops, I wonder whether my results apply to the practical battlefields: soldiers in hold formation have a lower attack value and also make less attacks upon their opponent then those in engage at will, which is important since wedge gives a penalty to defence.
2) I did not notice any penetration of the yari line: the two units were always clearly separated after the initial charge. Perhaps this would have happened if the yari samurai stood in hold formation?

Conclusion
In these specific circumstances, 3 lines close formation is to be prefered over wegde (even if you switch to close after the charge). But I don't know whether these results have any value on the real battlefield. Can you help me out with this?
If not, I guess I'll have to find a more complicated test (because that is what scientists do: if it doesn't work, make it more complicated http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif ).

frogbeastegg
01-24-2004, 21:12
I play Shogun in a very intuitive style, unlike MTW there are few hard and fast rules for best unit usage. Yari are good against cavalry on engage at will and good at taking charges on hold/hold so I use both and they work well on 2, 3 or 4 ranks, unlike in MTW where spears need to be on hold formation 4 ranks permanently for best effect. This means I can't really say how I use the wedge as a hard and fast rule.

Basically what I do is never charge head on in a wedge - always flank or attack from behind. This reduces your casualties on impact, and causes more damage which allows your wedge to drive into the enemy ranks. Then I switch to close to remove the penalty and get the men at the rear into the fight, switch maybe about 3 seconds after impact. I only use the wedge with no-dachi, monks, arrowless archers (only because I use them for flanking rather than straight up fighting and wedge makes flanking easier to maneuver) or cavalry (not cav archers though) because I don't find it worthwhile with any of the other units.

Units in a wedge are easier to control when moving for a flank, this makes it easier for you to get into position and then charge with extra damage from a position where you are less likely to lose men. I don't always use wedge when flanking though, just when I feel it may be beneficial. Most often in tight spaces or when I am in a hurry and need the unit to move quickly to an exact point.

As far as close formation ranks go, well again I go with what I need now. If I need depth to take a charge or defend a small space then I go with 3 or 4. Otherwise I go with 2 and a bit (2 full ranks with a partial third) or 3 full ranks. I just use what I think I need, for example my monks V yari samurai I go with 2 and a bit ranks so I can flank well and have a bit of depth for when the yari lose their formation, my yari V monks I go 3 full ranks to make flanking on me harder but keep bulk so they don't get swept away.

The only units I have solid deployment rules for in Shogun is guns - always 3 full ranks, on hold/hold. Compare that to MTW where spears are always 4 ranks hold/hold, swords always 2 ranks, axes always 2 ranks, cav always 2 and a bit ranks, blah blah blah

Well that was probably about as much use as a chocolate tea pot

Ludens
01-25-2004, 15:53
Quote[/b] ]Well that was probably about as much use as a chocolate tea pot
It certainly was more useful than my rigid attack-is-wedge,-defence-is-hold style of reasoning. Lessons learned:
-Use wedge formation only for attacking when your opponent will not fight back effectively.
-Use close formation if there will be a serious resistance. The thickness of your formation should increase with the expected resistance.
-Most importantly: think flexible. This one is going to be the hardest http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/idea.gif .

As always, thank you Frogbeastegg http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/ht_bow.gif

Bodew
02-04-2004, 22:57
Froggy,
Incredible guides. Both the beginners guide and the unit guide should be a must read for anyone playing MTW. Even if they have been at it for a while they are bound to learn something.

I do have a question. Do you ever use the wedge formation? Do you see any real benifit? I used to try it, but don't use it any more as it seems I loose to many men to fast. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/mecry.gif

After reading your guide I started using the long thin line approach with swords and I seem to get a much better kill ratio.

Thanks again for the great guides http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/cheers.gif

TZAR
02-05-2004, 03:58
Okay how do u play the golden herde in single play campaine damn someone plz help me out be wanting to usem for a while http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-wall.gif

frogbeastegg
02-05-2004, 13:08
Bodew I don't really use wedge in MTW, half the time I forget it exists. I use it occasionally in Shogun though. Wedge formation gives the men a bonus, I think it is +2 attack and -2 defence, this makes them kill and die slightly faster. In my experience though it is not good to fight in at all as your men die too quickly, their flanks are very vulnerable, and the vast majority of the men are not actually fighting because they aren't close enough to the enemy. Wedge should be used to charge and then you should switch back to close shortly after the charge hits. This allows the men to fight back better and brings more men to the front to engage the enemy. Never charge head on with wedge, it's not really effective. Instead try and hit the enemy from behind so they can't fight back very effectively. Overall I would say that wedge is not worth it in combat - even when charging a close line formation will do more damage and take less casualties simply becasue more men are able to use their charge bonus adn get killing quickly.

Wedge can be useful for moving units like cavalry through tighter spaces and working them around the enemies flanks, but on the rare occasions I do this I always go back to close formation before starting to charge.


TZAR Not exactly sure myself. Try adding the -ian command line to your game, that allows you to cycle through factions in the campaign game so if the Horde are on the map you can play as them. You can find instructions for using the command lines in the guides cheat and command line appendix. Otherwise you are looking at modding your game and I don't know how to mod faction availability.

Monk
02-05-2004, 19:31
Quote[/b] (TZAR @ Feb. 04 2004,21:58)]Okay how do u play the golden herde in single play campaine damn someone plz help me out be wanting to usem for a while http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-wall.gif
It requires editing of the startpos file for Late. It's a simple fix really, all you have to do is change their status from MINOR faction to MAJOR faction, though it's been a long time so i don't know exactly where it is in the file. However if you're going to play as them be warned, people don't seem to like pagans much so you may have loyalty issues. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif

Bodew
02-05-2004, 23:16
Thanks Froggy,
Sounds like you feel the same about the wedge formation as I do. Maybe I am doing somethig right. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-inquisitive.gif

TonkaToys
02-10-2004, 15:46
Thx Frogbeastegg for the fantastic guide... it made me join the ORG. Now to put your useful tips into action.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-2thumbsup.gif

nightcrawlerblue
02-25-2004, 19:42
I just got Total War a week ago and your guide helped me to get started. There are still some things I don't understand but after reading both the manual and this guide, I was able to pick it up fairly quickly. Anyway, Just wanted to say thanks for making this guide and helping us new guys out.

frogbeastegg
03-07-2004, 18:48
Updated - New section on castle assaults added.

Thanks for all the compliments http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/ht_bow.gif

Monk
03-07-2004, 18:59
Greetings Lady frogbeastegg

nice update on the castle siege, but i have to point out something. In the section that describes certain events like starting and ending date, the ending date is wrong.


Quote[/b] ]2.11 Events
The early period starts in 1088
The high period starts in 1205
The late period starts in 1321
The Mongols invade in 1230
The game finishes at 1492 (1066 for the Viking campaign)
The compass is invented in 1170
Gunpowder is discovered in 1260


the game ends in 1453 for the main campaign, everything else seems fine. The only reason i actually know this is i was about to claim victory as the Turks when all of a sudden the year turns 1453 and informs me there is no more time to conquer and my empire must be satisfied with the land it holds, therefore i had to settle for a 60% victory

Aside from that little error this is a fine guide.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/ht_bow.gif

frogbeastegg
03-07-2004, 19:09
Thanks, fixing.

EDIT: New day,. new set of updates but I can't be bothered to spam my own topic http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif

One new section about valour flags added complete with picture. Tweaked princess section with new information that foreign brides do not alter the chance of heirs having inbred etc vices. Also link to HTML version of the guide, finally made after all these months. Credit TosaInu for that.

frogbeastegg
03-07-2004, 19:12
Update - added new section on castle sieges. Also fixed error in the end date for the medeival campaign.

Ludens
03-07-2004, 21:15
While you are at it, I have got a few snippets of information for you too.

1) The valour of a unit (both your own and that of enemies) is shown by the number of small banners the unit is carrying. I have only recently found this out, when someone at the forum pointed it out. It seems to be mentioned nowhere, so I guess the Beginner's guide would be a good place to spread the word. This fact is mentioned by Kristaps in this thread: Valor display on the battlefield..., Those flags actually matter... (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=15804).

2) In the diplomacy section of the Beginner's guide you say
Quote[/b] ]Foreign princesses help you to avoid the 'inbred' vices that become common in your royal family if they choose their own brides.
When browsing through the archive I found something interesting: a post from Kraxis stating that Longjohn had said that marrying foreign princesses does NOT get you better heirs. I asked Kraxis in another discussion if Longjohn had really said this and he confirmed it. I was surprised and looked it up in the manual (UK version). The hints sections says that marrying foreign princesses is useful for getting heirs earlier, but nothing explicit about inbred vices.
The two threads:
-Hopeless heirs (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=13992)
-Hmm... odd about heirs (archive) (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=20;t=5903)


I hope you will find this useful.

frogbeastegg
03-08-2004, 17:37
Little unit flags.
I've known that since the shogun battle trainer demo, to be honest I was more than surprised that others didn't know. I shall put it in the guide somewhere.

Princesses.
Ok, very old community speculation laid to rest by offical word. Fixing.

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-zzz.gif So tired.

EDIT: Done, with a little picture and everything. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-juggle.gif

frogbeastegg
03-13-2004, 23:39
Updated with a small change to the copyright bit at the intro.

SwordsMaster
03-18-2004, 15:30
Hey,cogratulations for a great guide

I would like to suggest a couple of things for your formations.Use Halberdiers instead of spears for defensive lines and replace one of the swords with another spear/halberdier unit.The only reason i have for doing such a thing is because you usually want to stay and not to attack.Another suggestion is to place you army far from the enemy to make them walk and/or climb the biggest possible distance.

Ah,just another thought.Instead of feeding revolts to train my generals,i usually use a 3star general and make him fight the pope.That allows me to avoid excommunication (assuming i win), to raid Rome (which is quite worth it),train my general against someone more respectable,and retreat in a few turns,and also gain some influence...but the latter is just a side effect...

Maybe you could also write a guide on provinces,it would be helpful.....Im just too lazy to do it.. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

frogbeastegg
03-19-2004, 13:41
Thank you SwordsMaster, I shall see what I can do. Maybe some expansion of the formations and tactics section is in order...there are many more formations out there, and those on display are best suited to early.

Training armies on the Pope, nice and evil - I like it I will add that one in...if I am going to expand the army formations section I will probably just do one massive update in a few days time.

If by guide to provinces you mean what resources they have, what unit bonuses are in each province and so on try the MTW info pack I mentioned in the 'useful resources' section of the guide, the one by Bushface with a bit of help from me. That pack has a lot of province style information in it. If you meant province incomes from farming etc, then alas I have been looking for something like that myself for some time now.

SwordsMaster
03-19-2004, 15:02
Thanks,I'll have a look at that one,but a meant both really,just to keep everything in one place,something like the FINAL GUIDE FOR RAIDERS, TRADERS, AND CONQUERORS http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

And possibly you're right, and someone could write a guide on tactics,for every period and every faction,jus a guideline or something....

I dont know,I possibly could do it in summer, but im just busy now....(and lazy) http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif

SwordsMaster
03-22-2004, 19:52
Hey,i just realized that there are more than 10000 visits to the guide, youre popular frogbeastegg. Keep it up http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/cheers.gif

frogbeastegg
03-23-2004, 13:17
Quote[/b] (SwordsMaster @ Mar. 22 2004,18:52)]Hey,i just realized that there are more than 10000 visits to the guide, youre popular frogbeastegg. Keep it up http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/cheers.gif
10,000 views for this version of the beginner's guide.
16,000 views for the Main Hall version of the beginner's guide.
37,000 views for the Main Hall unit guide.
676 downloads of the printable Word version of the unit guide.
1,873 downloads of the printable Word version of the beginner's guide.
Heaven knows how many views of the HTML versions of both guides.

I should charge admission http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-grin.gif

SwordsMaster
03-23-2004, 15:34
Ok, sorry,i underestimated your masterpiece http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif
You should charge....hmm...~http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-idea.gif I think you should edit a book on Medieval warfare based on videogames.

Hey, its something to be proud of http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif

frogbeastegg
03-31-2004, 21:11
The first part of Swordsmaster's suggestions has been added, the army bit will go in as soon as amphibianly possible. I am very busy right now, also very tired and not feeling too well so it may take a long time...

SwordsMaster
04-03-2004, 03:20
Jus tryed something "new", and as i didnt exactly know where to post it i decided this was a good place as it has to do with reorganization in the battlefield and someone might find it useful...


This is my experiment:

5star general (heir,royal knight)

5 halberds
3 FMAA
3 xbows


Basically its a new way of organizing a battle,specially suited for attacking.

Instead of grouping your units according to its type (ie all halbs together, etc..),the groups i suggest are more similar to the spanish "tercios" (ie, each group is a perfectly functional mini-army)

So the above setup ended up as follows:

group1:
2halbs,1FMAA,1xbow

group2:
2halbs,1FMAA,1xbow

group3:
1halb,1FMAA,1xbow

and the cavs on their own as usual.

The 2 bigger groups charged from the flanks and the smaller one frontally after harassing the enemy with the xbows.

The formations i used are:

XXXXXXXXX
HHHH SSSS

for each group where x:xbows,H halberds,s swordmen.
The ranks for H and S are shorter cause the xbows were in a thinner line.

The xbows set to skirmish,everyone else to hold formation, so when the enemy rushes after your xbows it gets in the middle of the heavies and is either pinned by the halbs and flanked by FMAAS or the other way around.

When engaged, flank as usual with the Knights, and charges into the troops opposing the halbs (as they have less attack bonus).The FMAA will cuth their way through...


This can be used with all "attacking infantry" and all spears/polearms,etc Just make sure they dont rout at firs touch, cause it may take some time as theyre heavily armoured.

Thats all, anjoy http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/cheers.gif

SwordsMaster
04-07-2004, 00:13
Thanks *bows* very honored *bows*.I hope my contribution to the wisdom of the universe is not vain.*bows*

Sniya
04-13-2004, 19:30
Quote[/b] ]The ultimate in Catholic defensive formations is this:
i was wondering if this was in any way based upon the historical crown formation used by the flemish and scots, in defencve battles?

frogbeastegg
04-14-2004, 14:51
:froggy surveys the mess created by merging the two beginner's guide topics, draws her medieval broadsword and gets cutting:

Right, all double postings on updates etc by me are now gone, two topics worth of update lists are not needed. I have also removed some posts that had nothing to do with the guide, some were notes to ease the topic transition and others were just in the wrong place full stop. Everything is now in place in this topic for the big update, all I need to do is finish writing it.

Now let's see if the name of this topic can change slightly...

Just for my reference the secondary version of the beginner's guide was at 11089 views when it was locked, so if that total is added to the one for this topic I can see the total number of views.



Sniya that formation is historical but my source was an English formation, although I suspect that makes little difference in the end. I did have to tweak the original plan to make it fit the game though.

frogbeastegg
04-22-2004, 12:05
The big update is complete:
-Split the guide into 2 posts to make life easier when I edit it, also to get it under the character limit.
-4 new army formation diagrams made by my own fair hand (that is why they are slightly wonky...)
-Retooled army descriptions for some of the existing armies.
-Polished language and punctuation, also clarified a collection of points here and there.
-New information about the Pope.
-New links
-Link to a redundant mirror removed.
-Miscellaneous new information sprinkled liberally throughout the guide, mostly a new sentence here and there expanding existing points.
-Generally assorted changes that improve the guide but are not really suited to listing here.

I was going to add more but the guide is already the beginner's, intermediate with a pinch of advanced guide to MTW and there is no point in adding more complex stuff to it when that information really belongs in a different guide.

frogbeastegg
04-30-2004, 12:58
At long last we have some Pope rules from CA, ever wondered just why he won't share his ice cream with you? Then check the excom section under the Pope to find eat cold steel explaining a thing or two...

frogbeastegg
05-11-2004, 11:36
A PDF version of the guide is now available, it's up to date as well as good looking. Thank Tricky Lady for converting it.

Powermonger
06-01-2004, 11:04
I was just thinking it would be a good addition to the Beginners Guide to perhaps include some recorded games demonstrating simple battle tactics and/or unit use. They wouldn't have to be huge battles, just custom ones showing certain techniques or how to use particular units to get the most out of them.

It's probably a little bit of work but sometimes when I read peoples descriptions of different tactics, it's very hard to visualise what they mean.

Anyway, just a suggestion to help add just that little bit more to such an excellent series of guides for MTW.

frogbeastegg
06-01-2004, 11:22
That is a very good idea, Opeth, and one I have been toying with since a month before the unit guide was released. I thought about creating a pack of replays for download by readers, with one replay showing off exactly what a certain unit category (e.g. swordsmen) could do when used properly, and therefore including tacticsa like flanking. I thought of a few problems and drawbacks to the idea, and it promised to be many hours of extra work which I couldn't handle while writing and then updating the guide.

I'll think on this more seriously, and see if I can find solutions to my main reservations...

frogbeastegg
06-05-2004, 14:26
Small update to the mercenary section, they work for free if you put them in a crusade. Thanks to ah_dut for that tidbit.

ah_dut
06-05-2004, 14:30
why thank you Froggy http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/wave.gif always obliged to help http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-jester.gif

Zortanius
06-18-2004, 05:05
Frogbeastegg, I must say that your Guide(s) are probably the most complete and methodically helpful peices of MTW documenttaion out there. In fact if I am not wrong it's referred on the Total War Official site. I just could not afford the strategy guide by Brady Games when I started so I decided to just have a go. If only I had read your guide the first time around....

In any case once I did get around to reading it, despite knowing most things, it did enrich my gameplay with a lot of tips I would have otherwise missed. I was all about wedge formation with infantry most of the time. It too me till 1351 to finish the game with BYZ the first time around

I digress..

Excellent work, it's a real pleasure reading and working with it.

There are a few things I would like to tell the community myself - once I figure out where to post them, I will

Thanx once again,
Cheers

Zortanius
06-18-2004, 05:26
D'oh I just read some of the earlier posts and came across your new battle formations for high and late period. So much for thinking I thought up of them. But the placing of the arbalesters in front of the pikemen in the high period formation and of the Varangian Guard at the corner flanks - pure genius.

Man... I should have joined this forum a long time ago - I coul have learnt and traded so much more info.

Anyhow - keep up the good work.

Cheers

frogbeastegg
06-18-2004, 09:09
http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-blush.gif thank you, Zortanius.

cutepuppy
06-18-2004, 14:00
3. Some units will disappear after a certain date. You can no longer build Varangian Guardsmen or Ghulam bodyguards (as the Turks) after 1321. Check the VI manual for the limitations on the new units.


I found this in section 2.3, but IIRC, turks can train late ghulam BG, but it's no longer a prince's or sultan's bodyguard (replaced by sipahi o/t porte).

frogbeastegg
06-18-2004, 22:18
I'll add that to the ever growing list of guide related things to do. I need more hours in a day...

Axeknight
06-20-2004, 11:56
Just a very small suggestion to an excellent guide, Froggy.

In a siege (after patch 2.01 Viking Invasion), missile units can shoot at walls with fire arrows. This can be useful against wooden forts or Viking period strongholds, although it is still best to use siege engines for stone keep level and above. So in early (or Viking period), when assaulting a fort (inc. fort motte and bailey), you don't need siege engines, although they're much better at making the walls come crumbling down.

Very useful guide, Froggy. I consider myself an intermediate MTW player, but there are some things in here I didn't know (single-click to charge etc).

http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif

frogbeastegg
06-21-2004, 11:39
A quick look at the front of the guide will reveal a new addition - I am not updating this any more.

Simply, I don't have the time or will any more; I am writing a book and it is expanding rapidly, demanding more and more with each idea that I have. At this rate it may even become a two-parter or trilogy, assuming I can ever get it to the required standard for publishing. My attention can only be in so many places and something had to give; it was my guides that gave way. They are complete enough, they are a lot of work to maintain, and to be honest I don't even like MTW any more.

I will try to include these last few points raised before this post, but I don't know if or when that will happen.

Blodrast
06-22-2004, 19:11
Froggy,

As you said, the guides are complete enough. Already there is some info in them that is probably beyond the interest or understanding of a beginner, and even without your other activities I believe there is no point in trying to maintain them. At best, there would be a gain in information of 0.001%, at the expense of too great an effort. It's not worth it.
Anyway, they're a great thing, thank you again for writing them.
Lots of luck with your book(s), and hopefully you'll still drop by occasionally to give us a story in the Mead Hall http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/bigthumb.gif

ah_dut
06-23-2004, 17:39
Quote[/b] (frogbeastegg @ June 21 2004,13:39)]and to be honest I don't even like MTW any more.
What? and good luck with your book http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-2thumbsup.gif

motorhead
06-24-2004, 08:46
FBE - Much thanks for all the time and effort you put into both guides. The true Player's Manual for the game. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/medievalcheers.gif

- MH

frogbeastegg
06-26-2004, 23:04
Thanks everyone. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/ht_bow.gif

Blodrast, I've just started a new mini series in the Mead Hall today; Dragon's Tears (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=24;t=19750), a medieval Welsh tragedy.

ah_dut, when you have spent literally hundreds of hours working away on guides for a game you slowly begin to lose interest; MTW was always a big letdown to me when compared with the magnificence of STW, all the time I spent working so closely with the game has only magnified those things I don't like. I can't bear to play the game any more; I would uninstall it but I have my eye on the Two Crowns mod, it promises to change MTW into something closer to the game I was hoping for. I suppose it is the price I paid for writing these guides.

motorhead, well shucks :blushes:

ah_dut
06-26-2004, 23:08
Quote[/b] (frogbeastegg @ June 27 2004,01:04)]Thanks everyone. http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/ht_bow.gif

Blodrast, I've just started a new mini series in the Mead Hall today; Dragon's Tears (http://www.totalwar.org/cgi-bin/forum/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=24;t=19750), a medieval Welsh tragedy.

ah_dut, when you have spent literally hundreds of hours working away on guides for a game you slowly begin to lose interest; MTW was always a big letdown to me when compared with the magnificence of STW, all the time I spent working so closely with the game has only magnified those things I don't like. I can't bear to play the game any more; I would uninstall it but I have my eye on the Two Crowns mod, it promises to change MTW into something closer to the game I was hoping for. I suppose it is the price I paid for writing these guides.

motorhead, well shucks :blushes:
Off topic but the story is good http://www.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif

sunsmountain
07-18-2004, 14:43
I would like to thank frogbeastegg for this wonderful guide. I am using it on a regular basis to train my newbie friends in the art of MTW.

https://forums.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/medievalcheers.gif
Thanks

sunsmountain

ah_dut
07-18-2004, 19:35
Quote[/b] (sunsmountain @ July 18 2004,08:43)]I would like to thank frogbeastegg for this wonderful guide. I am using it on a regular basis to train my newbie friends in the art of MTW.

https://forums.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/medievalcheers.gif
Thanks

sunsmountain
copyright abuse https://forums.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/tongue.gif froggy should charge royalties.
OT, i have an idea, somebody could keep editing the guide if tosa gave them the power, just and idea https://forums.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/idea.gif so froggy dont have to do all the work https://forums.totalwar.org/forum/non-cgi/emoticons/gc-furious3.gif

avatar
08-14-2004, 15:23
After playing STW I thought MTW would be the same. I was humbled quickly. Thank you for your great work.

Melbourne
04-08-2005, 05:22
Mate that is brillant.

Cheers

gunslinger
12-14-2005, 20:21
This guide has definitely made learning MTW a lot more fun for me. Thank you froggy for making it.

I do have a beginner's question if anyone would be kind enough to help me out. Is it possible to control what order your reinforcements come onto the field after a battle has started? After I have routed the enemy with a strong formation of infantry and spears, I like to quickly withdraw some of them, along with my nearly depleted archers, and bring on the cavalry to chase the routers and tear the enemy reinforcements apart as they come onto the field piecemeal. However, I'm always wasting time cycling through a bunch of other units before I get to the cavalry. Are there any options besides simply making my army smaller so that the cav is the only reinforcement I have?

Thank you,
Gunslinger

P.S. If this isn't the appropriate forum for this type of question, please let me know.

Ludens
12-15-2005, 16:16
Is it possible to control what order your reinforcements come onto the field after a battle has started? After I have routed the enemy with a strong formation of infantry and spears, I like to quickly withdraw some of them, along with my nearly depleted archers, and bring on the cavalry to chase the routers and tear the enemy reinforcements apart as they come onto the field piecemeal. However, I'm always wasting time cycling through a bunch of other units before I get to the cavalry. Are there any options besides simply making my army smaller so that the cav is the only reinforcement I have?
I can answer that question for her. There is no way of altering the order of reinforcements during battle, but if you have VI installed you can do it before the battle starts. (It is possible to do in M:TW as well, but this involves cycling all reinforcement units in the deployment phase until they are in the right order, and is quite tedious and laborious.)

This is not exactly the right forum, though. These kind of questions are best asked in the Entrance Hall.

Welcome to the Org! ~:wave:

_Maximus_
05-27-2006, 14:05
Yeah! Welcome

Ciaran
06-25-2006, 15:50
To find victory you must use and understand the landscape. I will give a basic rundown here but if you really want to know the tiny details find a copy of Sun Tzu's 'The Art of War'. This book is the original and best guide to conducting a war; reading and absorbing its contents will improve your game immeasurably as Total War was designed around it.

A sound advice, after having reading "The Art of War" (you can find it at gutenberg.net, by the way) I´ve noticed many aspects are applicable to the Total War games (or rather the other way round, many of the aspects used to gain victory are outlined in the book, as I´ve played the games first and finished the book just recently), though, in my opinion, even more to MTW (the passage of winning a battle without fighting comes to mind - this is much more useful in MTW than in RTW) than RTW, as a matter of fact.

VirtualWolf
06-27-2006, 19:41
WoW I guess "The Art of War" was one of my favorite books when I was in the Martial arts. Here however I played RTW a few times before I started remembering and applying Sun's advice. I can't wait to use it in MTW. As my first post ever here I wanted to thank you for mentioning TAoW and making me feel that I was not way out in using it.

Bill Westwater
07-18-2006, 17:17
I have a question regarding the factors affecting a leaders influence. I am currently playing MTW as the Turks in late, and my third Sultan's influence, which had over the previous 10 years or so, had risen from 3 where it had started to 9, this after taking over just two or three provinces more than he had begun with. He hadn't done much to raise his influence, other than launch 1 jihad to take Bulgaria from the Byzantines. He had made no more than a couple of allies, and he didn't have any particularly good or bad v and v's. Then the Egyptians attacked taking Lesser Armenia and besieging Constantinople. I checked my leaders influence and it had fallen to zero! Disaster! But not one province rebelled and gradually his influence began to climb again to the point where it is 6 and rising. Has this happened to anyone else, and if so does anyone have any ideas why this might have happened?

Bill Westwater
07-18-2006, 17:18
I have a question regarding the factors affecting a leaders influence. I am currently playing MTW as the Turks in late, and my third Sultan's influence, which had over the previous 10 years or so, had risen from 3 where it had started to 9, this after taking over just two or three provinces more than he had begun with. He hadn't done much to raise his influence, other than launch 1 jihad to take Bulgaria from the Byzantines. He had made no more than a couple of allies, and he didn't have any particularly good or bad v and v's. Then the Egyptians attacked taking Lesser Armenia and besieging Constantinople. I checked my leaders influence and it had fallen to zero! Disaster! But not one province rebelled and gradually his influence began to climb again to the point where it is 6 and rising. Has this happened to anyone else, and if so does anyone have any ideas why this might have happened?

Ludens
07-18-2006, 22:47
Yeah, it is a rare but known bug. Your leader's influence will rise until it hits 9 and than go back to zero. It seems like some wrap-around effect, but what causes the continual rise in influence is not known. Someone suggested it might be caused by having a (religious?) agent in every province on the map.

Sensei Warrior
07-19-2006, 00:22
Yeah, it is a rare but known bug. Your leader's influence will rise until it hits 9 and than go back to zero. It seems like some wrap-around effect, but what causes the continual rise in influence is not known. Someone suggested it might be caused by having a (religious?) agent in every province on the map.

Do you mean your religious agent or anyones religious agent? Does it have to be a religous agent or can it be any type of agent? Could it be a mix of agents (like any one type of agent in every provence)?

From the question mark you probably don't know the answer but I figured I'd throw it out in case somebody does.

Ludens
07-19-2006, 12:17
Do you mean your religious agent or anyones religious agent? Does it have to be a religous agent or can it be any type of agent? Could it be a mix of agents (like any one type of agent in every provence)?
I think it was Ironside who reported that this bug occured when he had a bishop (of his own) in every province. The effect stopped when he moved on bishop to another province, thus leaving one province uncovered. Sorry for not being clear.

Sensei Warrior
07-19-2006, 22:00
Thanks Ludens. I knew that the cascading influence sometimes happens (although I have yet to see it), I never knew someone came up with a reason why. I missed so much while I was away.

Archaeopath
08-14-2006, 14:39
Nice guide froggy, one of the best around :)

Caerfanan
02-05-2007, 11:47
An impressive guide indeed.

I have a question. During a defensive battle in which I had to swap tired and out of ammo Irish Dart throwers for fresh ones, I couldn't make them withdraw, but only flee.

It was not a problem since I wanted them out of the field anyway, but the going out in good order instead of running awkwardly would have been more decent, since I was handling that Mercian pretty well.

I have the MTW gold edition from the Era's box. I couldn't see a propoer "withdraw" option, and the ctrl+W doesn't seems to do anything. Having an Azerty keyboard, I haven't tried a ctrl+Z though....

Any Idea?

Agent Miles
02-05-2007, 15:13
If you put the cursor over a unit and right click, you get a menu with all the options, to include "withdraw".

Geezer57
02-06-2007, 00:52
Deleted - post in error.

Adrian II
02-06-2007, 20:01
I couldn't see a propoer "withdraw" option, and the ctrl+W doesn't seems to do anything. Having an Azerty keyboard, I haven't tried a ctrl+Z though....You can change all of your hot keys in the Options menu. :yes:

Caerfanan
02-08-2007, 17:07
Awww... Such in a hurry to play the game I didn't even took the time to test all the options... :oops:

Thanks guys! My warriors will leave the field with all thair pride and dignity from now on. :knight:

Caerfanan
02-08-2007, 17:16
"all thair pride"

Very nice. I'll check my english a bit more, next time...

Ventrian
06-28-2011, 17:51
I just wanted to say that this is an epic piece of work and even now some 8 years on there are people like me who still find this thread useful. I have had M:TW for quite a while and have fumbled around the edges until recently when I figured I would give it another spin. To be honest it is graphically challenged by more recent titles however it is really very good for a game of its age and this beginners guide is superb I cannot thank the OP enough for the effort put into it outstanding :applause:

drone
06-28-2011, 23:03
Welcome to the Org, Ventrian! It is indeed a great piece of work. This and the Unit Guide are why I joined here so many years ago. :bow:

And rumor has it that the Lady Frog will be releasing a guide to Shogun 2 soon.

Trapped in Samsara
09-30-2011, 15:01
Yeah, it is a rare but known bug. Your leader's influence will rise until it hits 9 and than go back to zero. It seems like some wrap-around effect, but what causes the continual rise in influence is not known. Someone suggested it might be caused by having a (religious?) agent in every province on the map.

Hi

I have just encountered this phenomenon in my current Caravel v3.3 campaign (Early, Hard, Almos).

I'm not sure how or why, but I noticed something odd was happening and started checking my ruler's influence every turn. It was increasing one or two crowns a year, and then suddenly shot down to zero! A momentary panic ensued as I expected provinces and generals to start rebelling left, right and centre. But nothing happened. And when I checked the income and loyalty scroll all provinces remained at 200 happiness!? Similarly, my generals' loyalty did not seem to be affected, and I received no, 'you have a number of disloyal generals' warning.

I do have a lot of imams on the map, but certainly not in every province. Ireland, for example, does not have a port.

Best regards
Victor

Sapere aude
Horace

Rotsim2
04-11-2019, 09:41
This is a very useful reference, thanks!
Maybe there is a newer version of this guide?

edyzmedieval
04-12-2019, 10:42
Hi Rotsim,

Unfortunately no, the guide is actually very old but it's still very useful for MTW players. :yes: