I went out to Dodona yesterday. It is pretty close to Ioannina and with Egnatia route running near it, it is deffinitely easy to access- Old road is a bit dangerous at times.Travel at slow speed and be mindful of falling rocks-. Dodona complex is pretty much all that remains of the Epeiros of Hellenistic times, displaying the splendor of Pyrrhos' vision of Epeiros. A strong country, in which culture, knowledge and the promise of a better future would lead its people out of the villages they dwelled in and into cities, as happened. Pyrrhos built the Theater near the millenia old oracle of Dodona to ensure its universal acceptance. The theater of Dodona, one of the largest surviving in Present day Greece wasn't built just for the residents in the immediate vincinity. It was built for all the people of Epeiros. It cast a shining light on all of Epeiros, and as such it remains. A small stadium for races is built nearby, which is supposed to have been used for the assembly of the Post Pyrrhos' dynasty, Koinon of Epeiros.
Pyrrhos has been considered an Albanian by some Albanian nationalists. I think that is wrong. I consider it as wrong as what some of our own nationalists say, that the greatest Albanian Hero, Gjergj Kastriot Skënderbeu, widely known as Skanderbeg, is Greek. Let's put some facts on the table. Albanians are the modern Illyrians, I have no doubts about that and nobody should, either. Pyrrhos was born in Epeiros, fled to Illyria to save his life, then back to Epeiros, then to the Antigonid state in Anatolia, fought in Ipsos, where he distinguished himself and was given a Hero's welcome in Alexandreia, where he became so close to Ptolemaios, Pyrrhos called Ptolemaios "Father" and Ptolemaios called Pyrrhos' "Son". He used the leverage and money of the Ptolemaioi to return to Epeiros and reclaim his kingdom. He briefly became King of Macedonia but was pushed out, then started what could be described as a "Hellenic Crusade" in which he took the mantle of Protector and Savior of the Western Greeks from Romans and Carthagenians alike. All other Hellenistic monarchs aided him, including Ptolemaios Keraunos, then King of Macedonia. Who I just described doesn't sound like an Illyrian. I just don't think he would describe himself as one. Was he proud of the time he spent in Illyria at the court of an Illyrian King? Probably, as those were without doubt the happiest years of his life, and also was a very fluent Illyrian speaker. That Illyrian King of the Taulantians, Glaukias, who first adopted and saved Pyrrhos from certain death was married to an Epeirote lady, an aunt of Pyrrhos. As such, Pyrrhos was raised in a bilingual environment, he didn't become Greek overnight. He was always one, but with a proud Illyrian background as well.
I like to think that Pyrrhos would be happy today, seeing modern Greeks and modern Illyrians (Albanians) co-existing harmonically in present day Epeiros. Maybe in the future, once Albania joins the European Union, Greeks can make a living there, Albanians can go and leave as they please, much like what happens between Germany and France. I think we are getting there and we should be. I think the best way to consider Pyrrhos is what he was, a unifier of the people living under him, which enabled him to try and follow into his cousin's Alexandros steps. Not many people can compare to Alexandros, yet the ancient writers suggest that he would be pretty near. What many people don't realise, however, is that from Pyrrhos' time and up Aemillius Paullus, it was the best time for Epeiros, maybe its best time ever.
Aemillius Paullus put an end to that, looting and destroying more than 50 of those cities (albeit most were walled towns) and taking 150.000 Epeirotes (half those living in Epeiros today) as slaves. Most Epeirote towns and cities were destroyed, others were built on (making archaeological research impossible) and from all others, there is absolutely nothing left but empty husks. Even the tombs were unearthed and plundered. What we know is of the precious few that was unlootable and some tomb remains.
The single most important monument of that time is the Theater of Dodona. This is what it looks like today... (yesterday rather)
This is what it looked like at Pyrrhos' times, (the whole complex, built around the Oracle of Zeus)
The only thing left standing after the devastation that Aemillius Paullus wrought upon Epeiros, Julius Caesar did some reconstruction work on Dodona, as well as Hadrian. Later on there was a church built nearby. However, due to raids and plundering that ensued, the whole site was abandoned, and pretty soon it was forgotten.
Present day restoration effort began in the 1960's by Professor Dakaris, the single most respected Authority on Pyrrhos. An example thereof, check for the center of the picture and you will see it. It fixed a gaping hole on the supporting walls of the Theater.
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It continues to this day, under the auspices of the European Union. The theater as it is now, is in absolute state of emergency. Epeirote weather is harsh and rainy. In Mainland Epeiros, it rains slightly less than it does in London. What can be done and thankfully is, is the following...
Damaged pieces of the theater are carefully hoisted up with this crane,
then lifted to a repair and restore facility nearby, where all restorative work that can be done to repair them is done. According to the new restoration rules, all added on material is CLEARLY different to the one that existed earlier so that nobody should have any visual difficulty discerning old from restored.
The problem? Well, like anything in Greece, it started very late in the project timespan. The money alloted to the project will be left unspent, and the project that you now see, will be a Hulk of its former self. No money will be given for the project post December 31.
I don't blame the EU. I blame us Greeks for failing to overcome our natural unwillingness to keep to a timetable. I share that blame, as well. I had thought that it was all going according to plan, but that unfortunately went out of the window. Right now, there is substantial progress, I just want to see it continue and, one day, be completed.
In light of this current state of affairs, I must ask, no I feel I must plead that whoever is in position to do something about this, please, please do. If this were the U.S. I would say write a letter to your Senator, however E.U. is not as easy. I will update this, when I have found a proper e-mail to adress.
Here's what happened. EU had allocated 8 million Euros for the project. All the money spent is well accounted for. It is just that the project started so late that there was no time for more work to be done. In December 31 of the current year, all the money left are returning to EU funds. I honestly don't blame EU, just us Greeks and our "last minute" approach to everything, including our own History.
The only way for the restoration work to proceed is that it be included in the E.S.P.A. package and resumes funding from there. No other funds exist. I realise that with the current financial climate that is very difficult, but really, can you put a price on Dodona?
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