Frequently Asked Questions

[Reenk Roink]

I'm quite sure that EB doesn't rely much, if at all on online sources.

They have actual historians and archaeologists on the team.

Still, a solid site with basic information on the period is livius.org.

Check that one out.

[khelvan]

Unfortunately most of our research is done the old fashioned way - using old, musty books. It is why so many of us are insane. Mold and all that.

[Reenk Roink]

For the mold problem:

INTRODUCTION
Most librarians and archivists have seen the effects of mold on paper materials, but many have never experienced an active mold outbreak. Dealing with such an outbreak (large or small) can be overwhelming. This leaflet provides some basic information about mold and outlines the steps that need to be taken to stop mold growth and begin to salvage collections.

Please note that the actions recommended here are basic stabilization techniques to be undertaken in-house for small to moderate outbreaks. The complexities of dealing with a large number of wet and moldy materials will usually require outside assistance, and some suggestions for dealing with a major mold outbreak, appear at the end of this leaflet. In all cases, a conservator or preservation professional should be consulted if any questions arise or if further treatment is necessary.


WHAT IS MOLD?
Mold and mildew are generic terms that refer to various types of fungi, microorganisms that depend on other organisms for sustenance. There are over 100,000 known species of fungi. The great variety of species means that patterns of mold growth and the activity of mold in a particular situation can be unpredictable, but it is possible to make some broad generalizations about the behavior of mold.

Mold propagates by disseminating large numbers of spores, which become airborne, travel to new locations, and (under the right conditions) germinate. When spores germinate, they sprout hair-like webs known as mycelium (visible mold); these in turn produce more spore sacs, which ripen and burst, starting the cycle again. Molds excrete enzymes that allow them to digest organic materials such as paper and book bindings, altering and weakening those materials. In addition, many molds contain colored substances that can stain paper, cloth, or leather. It is also important to realize that mold can be dangerous to people and in some cases can pose a major health hazard. Mold outbreaks should never be ignored or left to "go away on their own."


WHY DOES MOLD GROW?
To germinate (become active), spores require a favorable environment. If favorable conditions are not present, the spores remain inactive (dormant); in this state they can do little damage.

The most important factor in mold growth is the presence of moisture, most commonly in the air, but also in the object on which the mold is growing. Moisture in the air is measured as relative humidity (RH). In general, the higher the RH the more readily mold will grow. If the RH is over 70% for an extended period of time, mold growth is almost inevitable. It is important to remember, however, that it is possible for some species of mold to grow at lower RH as well. If collections have become wet as the result of a water disaster, this increases their susceptibility to mold growth. Other factors that will contribute to mold growth in the presence of moisture are high temperature, stagnant air, and darkness.

Mold spores, active or dormant, are everywhere. It is not possible to create an atmosphere free of spores. They exist in every room, on every object in the collection, and on every person entering the collection area. The only wholly dependable control strategy is to keep the humidity and temperature moderate so the spores remain dormant, keep collections as clean as possible, and prevent the introduction of new active mold colonies.


BASIC PRINCIPLES OF SALVAGE
REDUCE THE HUMIDITY: As noted above, moisture initiates mold growth. Reducing the humidity is essential to stopping the mold growth.

DO NOT TURN UP THE HEAT: This will not help to dry out collections and storage areas. Additional heat in the presence of moisture will cause the mold to grow faster.

IF COLLECTIONS ARE WET, DRY OR FREEZE THEM: Mold will normally grow on wet materials in about 48 hours (sometimes sooner). If you know you cannot get the affected material dry within 48 hours, it is best to freeze it. This will not kill the mold, but it will stop further growth until you have a chance to dry and clean the material.

CONSIDER THE HEALTH RISKS: A few mold species are toxic to people, and many molds are powerful sensitizers. Exposure to mold can lead to debilitating allergy even among people not prone to allergies. Everyone who works with moldy objects must be properly protected.

AVOID "QUICK AND EASY" CURES: "Quick cures" that you may have heard about (such as spraying Lysol on objects or cleaning them with bleach) may cause additional damage to items or be toxic to people; they are also often ineffective. In the past, mold-infested collections were often treated with fumigants. Ethylene oxide (ETO) will kill active mold and mold spores; other chemicals that have been used are less effective. All of these chemicals can have adverse effects on both collections and people, and none of them will keep the mold from recurring.


STEP-BY-STEP SALVAGE
This section provides specific steps for responding to a small or moderate mold outbreak. While the steps are numbered for convenience, they may not be carried out in exactly this order, and some of these activities will occur simultaneously.


Find out what is causing the mold growth. You need to know what is causing the problem so that additional mold on collections not yet affected can be avoided.


Look first for an obvious source of moisture, such as a water leak.


If there is no obvious source of moisture, use a monitoring instrument to measure the relative humidity in the affected area. If the humidity is elevated, there might be a problem with the HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) system, or the area might be subject to higher humidity for another reason, such as having shelves placed against an outside wall. Mold might also develop in areas with poor air circulation or in areas where there is a lot of dust and dirt that might provide a food source for mold.


Initiate repairs or resolve the problem as soon as possible. If the problem cannot be resolved quickly, salvage the collections as directed below and develop a strategy for frequent monitoring of the area for additional mold growth.


Take steps to modify the environment so that it is no longer conducive to mold growth.


Mop up and/or use a wet-dry vacuum to remove any standing water. Bring in dehumidifiers, but be sure that a mechanism is in place to drain them periodically so they do not overflow. Bring in fans to circulate the air, and open the windows (unless the humidity is higher outside).


Your goal should be to reduce the relative humidity to 55% or lower. Temperature should be moderate, below 70°F. Get a monitoring instrument that can measure the relative humidity and temperature accurately, and record the measurements in a log several times a day. Do not rely on your own impression of climate conditions.


Implement safety precautions for staff and others working with moldy items.


A mycologist should be consulted to insure that no toxic mold species are present (a local hospital or university should be able to provide a reference). If toxic molds are present, DO NOT attempt to salvage materials yourself.


If there are no toxic molds present, collections can be salvaged in-house, but everyone working with the affected materials must wear disposable plastic gloves and clothing, and use a protective mask when working with moldy objects.


Use a respirator with a HEPA (high efficiency particulate) filter; pollen dust masks available in drug and hardware stores are not adequate. If you cannot use disposable clothing, be sure to leave dirty clothes in a designated area and wash them in hot water and bleach. Respirators should be wiped periodically with rubbing or denatured alcohol.


Be aware that some people cannot wear respirators. The respirator must fit well with good contact around the nose and mouth area. In addition, they make breathing somewhat difficult and can be problematic for people with asthma or heart conditions, or people who are pregnant. It is a good idea to consult your doctor before wearing a respirator to work with moldy materials.1


Isolate the affected items.


Quarantine items by removing them to a clean area with relative humidity below 45%, separate from the rest of the collection. Items should be transferred in sealed plastic bags to avoid transfer of mold to other items during the move, but they should not remain in the bags once in the clean area, since this will create a micro-environment that can foster further mold growth.


In the case of a large mold outbreak it may be impractical to move the items; in that case the area in which they are housed should be quarantined and sealed off from the rest of the building to the extent possible (remember that this includes shutting off air circulation from the affected area).


Begin to dry the materials. Your goal is to make the mold go dormant, so that it will appear dry and powdery rather than soft and fuzzy. This will allow you to remove the mold residue more easily.


Wet material should be dried in a cool, dry space with good air circulation. An air-conditioned space is the best for this purpose, but if that is impossible, use fans to circulate air (do not aim fans directly at objects, however, as this can damage materials and further scatter mold spores). Place paper toweling or unprinted newsprint (regular newspapers may transfer print to the wet objects) under the drying items to absorb moisture, and change this blotting material often. Air drying takes time and attention, since you must check drying materials often, and you must maintain cool, dry conditions and air circulation in the space.


Collections may also be dried outside in the sun (sunlight or ultraviolet light can cause some molds to become dormant). The outside humidity must be low. Be aware that the sun causes fading and other damage to paper-based collections, however. Materials should be monitored closely and left outside no more than an hour or so.


Special attention should be paid to framed objects (such as prints and drawings) and to the interior of the spines of books. A frame provides an ideal environment for mold; the back is dark, air does not circulate, and humidity can be trapped inside. Similarly, the interior of the spine of a book is particularly vulnerable to mold growth. Spines should be checked regularly during the drying process. Framed materials should be unframed immediately, and dried as above. If the item appears to be stuck to the glass in the frame, remove the backing materials from the frame and leave the item in the frame and attached to the glass. Place the framed item in a cool, dry space as described above, and consult a professional conservator.


If immediate drying is not possible, freeze the affected items.


If the item is small enough, it can be placed in the freezer compartment of a home refrigerator, with freezer paper loosely wrapped around it to prevent it from sticking to other items.


For items that are too big for a freezer compartment or for larger numbers of items, a commercial freezer may be necessary (grocery store, university food service, commercial cold storage facility, etc.). It is a good idea to make arrangements for commercial freezer storage before an emergency arises, since there may be restrictions on storing moldy items in a freezer that normally holds foodstuffs.


Once time and resources are available, frozen materials can be thawed and dried in small batches, or they can be freeze-dried or vacuum freeze-dried (with the exception of photographs, which should not be freeze-dried or vacuum freeze-dried).


Clean the affected items. DO NOT try to clean active mold (soft and fuzzy) yourself. This should be done only by a conservator, who will use a vacuum aspirator to avoid further embedding the mold into the paper. The following instructions apply only to inactive (dry and powdery) mold and materials that do NOT have artifactual value: 2


Remove mold residue outdoors rather than in an enclosed space whenever possible. Be sure to wear protective gear (see above). If you must work indoors, use a fume hood with a filter that traps mold or in front of a fan, with the fan blowing contaminated air out a window. Close off the room from other areas of the building (including blocking the air circulation vents).


Vacuum the mold. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter; this will contain the mold spores. A normal vacuum will simply exhaust the spores out into the air. You can also use a wet-dry commercial-strength vacuum if the tank is filled with a solution of a fungicide such as Lysol diluted according to the label instructions. A tube from the hose inlet should extend into the solution so that incoming spores are directed there.


Do not vacuum fragile items directly, since the suction can easily cause damage. Papers can be vacuumed through a plastic screen held down with weights. A brush attachment covered with cheesecloth or screening should be used for books to guard against loss of detached pieces. Boxes can be vacuumed directly. When disposing of vacuum bags or filters, seal them in plastic trash bags and remove them from the building.


It is also acceptable to clean off mold with a soft brush, but this must be done carefully. Once moldy material is dry and the residue appears powdery, take a soft, wide brush (such as a watercolor wash brush) and lightly brush the powdery mold off the surface of the item. This should be done outside or the mold should be brushed into a vacuum nozzle. Be careful not to rub the mold into the surface, since that will attach it permanently to paper fibers or the cover of a book.


Dry and thoroughly clean the room(s) where the mold outbreak occurred. You may do this yourself or hire a company to provide dehumidification and/or cleaning.


Vacuum shelves and floors with a wet-dry vacuum filled with a fungicide solution such as Lysol, then wipe them down with Lysol or a similar solution. Allow them to dry fully before returning any materials. If a musty odor lingers in the room, open containers of baking soda may help.


It is also a good idea to have the HVAC system components (heat-exchange coils, ductwork, etc.) cleaned and disinfected, particularly if you suspect they have caused the problem.


Return materials to the affected area. Do this ONLY after the area has been thoroughly cleaned AND the cause of the mold outbreak has been identified and dealt with.


Continue to monitor conditions and take steps to avoid additional mold growth.


Take daily readings of temperature and relative humidity, and be sure that the climate is moderate. It is particularly important to keep humidity below 55% to insure that mold will not reappear. Temperature should not exceed 70°F.


Check problem areas frequently to insure that there is no new mold growth. Be sure to examine the gutters of books near the endbands and inside the spines.


Keep areas where collections are stored and used as clean as possible, since dust and dirt are a source of spores, both active and dormant. Clean floors with a HEPA filter vacuum rather than sweeping, since sweeping scatters dust. House collections in protective enclosures whenever possible to keep them free of dust. Vacuum shelves and the tops of unboxed, shelved books, or clean them with a magnetic wiping cloth.


If funds permit, install a multi-stage particulate filtration system in the building or storage area.


Keep windows closed to prevent active spores from entering, and prohibit live plants in collection storage or use areas, since these are also a source of spores.


Quarantine new acquisitions for a few days, and check them carefully for signs of mold.


Avoid storing collections in potentially damp areas or in locations where water accidents are possible. Insure that regular maintenance is carried out on the building to reduce the chance of water emergencies.


Regularly inspect the HVAC system, which is a good breeding ground for mold. Regularly clean the heat exchange coils, drip pan, and ductwork. Change air filters frequently.


Prepare a disaster plan. This will prevent some accidents and provide strategies for dealing quickly and effectively with problems. Be sure that all employees are familiar with the plan.


For Insanity:

There are a wide variety of prescription drugs out there, also, psychaiatry might be worth a look.

[Moros]

For the mold problem:

INTRODUCTION
Most librarians and archivists have seen the effects of mold on paper materials, but many have never experienced an active mold outbreak. Dealing with such an outbreak (large or small) can be overwhelming. This leaflet provides some basic information about mold and outlines the steps that need to be taken to stop mold growth and begin to salvage collections.
...

OMG
that must be the best post about mold ever!
...

[Reenk Roink]

Its Eb quality .

[Sahran]

Does that mean mold is one of the last two unknown factions? With CA-esque khelvan berserkers of Moldiness?

[ScionTheWorm]

[QUOTE=Reenk Roink]
They have actual historians and archaeologists on the team.
QUOTE]
Archaeologists? Really?

[The_Mark]

I recall that Urnamma dug up something that made it into the mod.

[khelvan]

Well, two members of our team travel to archaeological digs as part of their professions, but I think saying we have "archaeologists" on the team is not entirely accurate, as it isn't their primary profession. We do have amateur archaeologists, at least one person in the process of getting a degree so he can become one, and academics who have done so/do so.

[Flavius Horatius]

Hey guys, this mod sounds really interesting. I know this Mod is still Beta, but do you plan to release a localized version (e. g. German or France) with the final release?
Cheers

[khelvan]

Due to the massive amount of text we have, we won't be doing anything like that internally. I do know that a Greek group had plans to work on EB, and I know a German group is working on one now.

[Han]

question on the speed of the game. Well I tried it out and it takes a very long time to load and laggs during gameplay. Will it be possible with all these features for you to maintain the speed of the original RTW somehow? Just wondering if the gameplay speed will ever become normal, because it really is a pain to play on such a short time schedule for me.

[Ludens]

question on the speed of the game. Well I tried it out and it takes a very long time to load and laggs during gameplay. Will it be possible with all these features for you to maintain the speed of the original RTW somehow? Just wondering if the gameplay speed will ever become normal, because it really is a pain to play on such a short time schedule for me.

EB has added a lot of units, buildings, traits, landmass and scripts to the game so it will always be slower than vanilla R:TW. However, Simetrical's bug list mentions this as a problem, so it is likely they are going to try to reduce it.

[SwordsMaster]

Question:Could anyone define "forced march" as EB understands it please. I get the "Forced march" trait too often.

Thanks

[Malrubius]

When your general uses almost all his movement points, it's likely to show up. If he stops to rest for a turn or moves just a little, it will go away again.

I'm away from my files or I'd give you a more detailed explanation, with percentages and such. I'll add it to the Traits FAQ later.

[SwordsMaster]

When your general uses almost all his movement points, it's likely to show up. If he stops to rest for a turn or moves just a little, it will go away again.

I'm away from my files or I'd give you a more detailed explanation, with percentages and such. I'll add it to the Traits FAQ later.

Oh, thanks. Ithought it happened when you march, fight a battle and then march again.

If you get the "drillmaster" ancilla which "allows forced marching" will you still get the trait?

[Malrubius]

Good question. Maybe ancillaries and traits like the Drillmaster should block you from getting the forced marching trait. Makes sense to me.

[Ergion]

Hi all.

I have a question to EB team:

Could you tell me if Iberian faction will have more units in future versions?

[Krusader]

Hi all.

I have a question to EB team:

Could you tell me if Iberian faction will have more units in future versions?

More units are planned. Two of our Iberian experts are unfortunately missing (computer problems or lots of real-life work) while the third remaining is being whipped.

[Antagonist]

A very small question, but I imagine I'm not the only illiterate barbarian () who's wondered about this: What does "Quisque Est Barbarus Aliquo" mean in English?

Antagonist

[Teleklos Archelaou]

First person to ask that I do believe!

According to the instomatic online translation machines, it means:
"Each one Is Barbarian In some direction"

Close, but no cigar!

A closer translation (though a little variation could still exist) would be:
"Each person is a barbarian to someone"

[Antagonist]

In addition, the term "barbarian" originally meant foreigner. Everyone is a "barbarian" to someone.

Indeed!

Antagonist

[Tanit]

Quick question. The original RTW ended in approximately the year 16 AD. When does this mod end? Especially seeing as it starts 2 years earlier.

And just a quick note. I noticed that you were talking about amateur archaeologists earlier. I would be very much interested in meeting them as I am going to university to study archaeology next year.

[Ambiorix]

I'm sorry if this question has been asked already, but I couldn't find any information that helped.

I know EB right now is not compatible with BI, but when it ports to 1.5 would it be possible to have BI on?

[khelvan]

1.5 and BI are separate. We would have to specifically make it compatible with BI to have it run on BI, which is a whole lot of work. We'll choose either one or the other to support, not both, going forward, unless our active members double in number or activity.

[Ludens]

Quick question. The original RTW ended in approximately the year 16 AD. When does this mod end? Especially seeing as it starts 2 years earlier.

EB ends at the same date as vanilla R:TW (the death of Augustus?), which means you have twice as many turns.

1.5 and BI are separate. We would have to specifically make it compatible with BI to have it run on BI, which is a whole lot of work. We'll choose either one or the other to support, not both, going forward, unless our active members double in number or activity.

I think he is asking whether you can install BI and patch it to 1.6, and then play the 1.5-compatible EB-version on vanilla 1.5 R:TW without touching the expansion.

[jerby]

silly question, but I'll post it here...
I know EB is recommended on vh/vh or soemthing..but due to CA's bug with difficulty settings: wich setting is harder:
Medium/hard, or hard/hard ?

[Malrubius]

Hard/Hard is harder (and Very Hard/Very Hard is even harder than that). That difficulty bug doesn't occur in campaign mode.

[jerby]

mixed emotions from my side....

1: thank goodness i chose teh right settings
2: damn It only gets harder than this (I refuse to play "easy")

[orwell]

Has a decision been made on whether it will be 1.5 or 1.6? The changes in BI would add to already great mod, but I imagine using 1.5 would be easier for the mod team.