In the best case, I can play 20 turns in an hour, depending on the number of battles that I fight. Certainly, I've fought 40 minute battles, but the triple speed option comes in handy there, especially when used liberally in combination with various adult beverages. Despite those battles, there are generally 5-10 turn stretches where there is little combat, and things go nice and quickly. Although, in my Makedonia campaign, now that I've knocked off Pontus, things have become slower (stupid Hayasdan), but the AI in general is much more active and interesting than in vanilla.
Bookmarks