I was a pretty big jerk this year, so for Kwanzaa I arranged for my wife and I to spend five days in Florence in February to break up the winter doldrums. There are the obvious things to check out -- Duomo, Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio, and probably a side trip to Siena -- but I'd like to go a little off the beaten track, see some cool/interesting things that you won't necessarily find on a tourist map. We'll be renting a car, so destinations outside the city aren't off-limits.

I've come to respect the historical acumen of the folks at the Org, particularly through countless hours of EB, and the international character of the forum is impressive. So -- got any recommendations for me? Historic sites, great restaurants, views, jazz clubs, whatever. Anything worthwhile!